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Post subject: HELP FSR 2006 Strat Problem
Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 7:33 pm
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Ok so l have a FSR 60th Anniversary Fender MIM HSS Strat, very unique only 100 made for Guitar Center and lt has tex mex neck and middle pups and a atomic humbucker ln the bridge l will post pictures l got from a collector website

anyways heres my problem, l have not played the strat ln a few months due to having a friends Squier Vintage Modified Strat (awesome Strat,best set up lve ever seen on a Fender or Squier) anyways l went to play lt the other week and noticed lt stays ln tune well and sounds great but the G string buzzes on all frets and even when struck open, and lts more pronounced because l play with my fingers and do blues solos with the edge of my thumb for warmth which just buzzes the string more

l was wondering lf there was a way to fix this without paying for a set up , l have no cash and could use anyhelp guys, my babys not the same

lt has ernie ball .9 slinkys on lt that are several months old lf that has any relevance

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Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 7:45 pm
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Usually, it is simply the string rattling around in its nut slot. G strings on Strats are notorious for this. Try replacing the string with the new string having SEVERAL winds around the machine head post, one below the other. This will lower the angle of the string from the nut to the machine head and force the string to bear down in the nut slot. Oftentimes this is enough to correct the problem.

There are other alternatives to accomplish the same end, albeit more radical:

1. Contour the nut slot with a deeper pitch angle toward the machine heads.
2. Install a second string tree for the third and fourth strings.
3. Mix some hard plastic ground into powder with some crazy glue, packing it into the G string nut slot, let it harden and recut the nut slot.
4. Cut a whole new nut.

Frankly, if the extra string windings around the post don't work, I wouldn't attempt the alternatives if I were you. Unfortunately, it is here that the nut slot should be evaluated and corrected by a competent tech.

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Last edited by Martian on Sat Aug 14, 2010 7:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 7:56 pm
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ok thanks alot l will try that tomorrow night , lm just worried lts hitting the 21st fret because lts more pronounced when l hit say the 14th fret on the g string , lts much louder and agressive


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Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 8:02 pm
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jebus91 wrote:
ok thanks alot l will try that tomorrow night , lm just worried lts hitting the 21st fret because lts more pronounced when l hit say the 14th fret on the g string , lts much louder and agressive


You are going to get all sorts of crazy over/undertones with a problem like yours where even sympathetic vibrations come into play. Like I said, try the new string route first and hopefully all shall be well.

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Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 8:39 pm
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sorry to bug again but how would l restring lt ln the tuner, l usually just put the string ln and turn until lt ls tight, ls there a technique to do that will make lt have more pressure on the nut like you said

thanks alot by the way as you can tell lm a newbie (playing 3 years)


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Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 5:23 am
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jebus91 wrote:
sorry to bug again but how would l restring lt ln the tuner, l usually just put the string ln and turn until lt ls tight, ls there a technique to do that will make lt have more pressure on the nut like you said

thanks alot by the way as you can tell lm a newbie (playing 3 years)


You're not bugging at all. Consider that all us more experienced players had to learn such things along the way too and if we didn't learn from those more experienced, it could have taken us years of trial and error to figure so many things out for ourselves. Don't hesitate to ask anything as I'm sure virtually everyone here is glad to help any way they can.

First, line up the eyelet of the machine head so that it is facing the G string nut slot. You don't have to be meticulous with this but the idea is to get as straight a line as possible for the string to sit in the nut and travel to and through the eyelet.

Some people like to create a locked loop of the string before they start winding. I do not as I find the compression from the subsequent winds lock the string in the eyelet just as well and looks a lot neater. So, using my method, draw the string through the eyelet while having a very loose fist underneath the string with your thumb facing up on the fingerboard. This will create the string slack you need for the several winds around the post.

Bend the string where it comes out of the eyelet to a 90 degree angle pointing towards the ceiling. Now start winding the string, ensuring as you turn it around the post, one wind goes directly beneath the other around the post. You will have to use both hands to keep a certain amount of tension on the string in order for the winds to form fit and stay one under the other while at the same time, keeping that 90 degree bend in place. Continue to ensure that none of the winds are overlapping each other or that any new wind is going above one already there. You will eventually see the windings begin to slide up and compress against the part of the string which is in the eyelet; continue to manipulate that 90 degree angle string bend so that it continues to point upward while applying appropriate pulling pressure on the string so that the winds do not unravel.

If any of the windings are tending to collect at the base of the post, gently use your finger or thumb nail to push them off and onto the post proper.

You should have at least 5 winds around the post with this method.

Bring the string up to pitch. Gently pull upward on it starting from the around the third fret and progressing all the way down to over the pickups; don't get crazy with this. Retune the string. Wiggle and pull upward that 90 degree portion of the string. Retune the string. Cut that piece of string off hnow. Retune the string. You're done.

Yes, this whole procedure takes a bit of practice, especially with the first few winds around the post so don't think you're going to blast through it. Yet, once you've got the hang of it, you'll forevermore be a string winding champ.

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Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 9:01 am
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wow thanks so much for the detailed lesson, l will try that tonight and hope lm sure lt will fix this, thanks alot , l play alot of SRV and Doyle Bramhall so l bet lt will help keep the strings ln tune as well


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Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 10:01 am
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jebus91 wrote:
wow thanks so much for the detailed lesson, l will try that tonight and hope lm sure lt will fix this, thanks alot , l play alot of SRV and Doyle Bramhall so l bet lt will help keep the strings ln tune as well


You're quite welcome.

What I've detailed for your G string applies to all the strings when you change them. Keep in mind that the wound strings will not go as many turns around the machine head posts as the plain ones will so adjust accordingly. And for best results, don't rip the old set off. Rather, change each string, old for new, one at a time, bringing each new one up to final pitch as described above.

Oh yea, lastly of course, gently lay one side of your wire cutters flatly on top of the machine head post and proceed to snip off the excessive string sticking up and out of the eyelet.

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