IT'S HERE..and it's nice..my 62 reissue MIJ body

ebaysux · **Posted:** Fri Aug 06, 2010 9:26 pm

Well then, if this is basswood someone must have put a basswood cap..on lead....lol. But until I actually weight it I can not be sure. It just feels heavy to me, my USA 2002 American standard body does not feel this heavy and for sure that is alder.

ebaysux · **Posted:** Fri Aug 06, 2010 9:34 pm

JasonSD wrote:

Do you know what year the body is? I have a 87 MIj strat that's heavier than my other strats and it's made of poplar. I never weighed just the body though, so I don't know how much it weighs.

Same here. Well that is the thing..I do not know the year. My internet research (which can often be taken with a grain of salt) says that some 80's MIJ bodies are heavy. It also says some were made of alder. It also says some basswoods are heavy, and some are light. So basically...voids out any verification what this is based on weight.

So if the neck pocket stampings do not give a clue...I can either carbon date it (not gonna happen), or bring it to someone who can tell the wood from what little is exposed in the neck pocket.

But the bottom line for me is I really do not care if this ax ends up feeling and sounding good. I am a FIRM believer, that the neck has more to do with feel and sound, then any other part, although all parts combined is important as well.

What I should probably do next, is nut and tuner the neck, get a bridge and string her up. I know what a good Strat should feel and sound like unplugged....if I am happy with the unplugged sound and feel, then it is time to work on electronics and pups.

AND....to re-finish, or not re-finish...that is always the question for me.

CAFeathers · **Posted:** Fri Aug 06, 2010 9:39 pm

ebaysux wrote:

JasonSD wrote:

Do you know what year the body is? I have a 87 MIj strat that's heavier than my other strats and it's made of poplar. I never weighed just the body though, so I don't know how much it weighs.

Same here. Well that is the thing..I do not know the year. My internet research (which can often be taken with a grain of salt) says that some 80's MIJ bodies are heavy. It also says some were made of alder. It also says some basswoods are heavy, and some are light. So basically...voids out any verification what this is based on weight.

So if the neck pocket stampings do not give a clue...I can either carbon date it (not gonna happen), or bring it to someone who can tell the wood from what little is exposed in the neck pocket.

But the bottom line for me is I really do not care if this ax ends up feeling and sounding good. I am a FIRM believer, that the neck has more to do with feel and sound, then any other part, although all parts combined is important as well.

What I should probably do next, is nut and tuner the neck, get a bridge and string her up. I know what a good Strat should feel and sound like unplugged....if I am happy with the unplugged sound and feel, then it is time to work on electronics and pups.

AND....to re-finish, or not re-finish...that is always the question for me.

Is there no date written in the neck pocket?

All 3 of mine are dated.

ebaysux · **Posted:** Fri Aug 06, 2010 9:50 pm

Nope..no date. I even broke out the magnifying glass. Just the stamping and some pencil mark that looks like an initial.

What bugs me about internet research...is I see replies like this...

"I really like the sound of basswood - nice warm mids, a real fat sound. Little light on the low end"

So...a "real fat sound"....."little light on the low end"???? WTF does that mean?

Anyhow..because there is no date in the neck pocket..there is no other way to even place it in a time frame based on the other stampings?

CAFeathers · **Posted:** Fri Aug 06, 2010 10:11 pm

ebaysux wrote:

Nope..no date. I even broke out the magnifying glass. Just the stamping and some pencil mark that looks like an initial.

What bugs me about internet research...is I see replies like this...

"I really like the sound of basswood - nice warm mids, a real fat sound. Little light on the low end"

So...a "real fat sound"....."little light on the low end"???? WTF does that mean?

Anyhow..because there is no date in the neck pocket..there is no other way to even place it in a time frame based on the other stampings?

Unfortunately ST-62 stamped bodies and necks were used on a variety of models (54RI, 57RI, 62RI, 68RI, and Standards).

This is what Warmoth has to say about:

Basswood (Tilia americana):

This is a lighter weight wood normally producing Strat® bodies under 4 lbs. The color is white, but often has nasty green mineral streaks in it. This is a closed-grain wood, but it can absorb a lot of finish. This is not a good wood for clear finishes since there is little figure. It is quite soft, and does not take abuse well. Sound-wise, Basswood has a nice, growley, warm tone with good mids. A favorite tone wood for shredders in the 80s since its defined sound cuts through a mix well.

Alder (Alnus rubra):

Alder is used extensively for bodies because of its lighter weight (about four pounds for a Strat® body) and its full sound. Its closed grain makes this wood easy to finish. Alder's natural color is a light tan with little or no distinct grain lines. It looks good with a sunburst or a solid color finish. Because of its fine characteristics and lower price, Alder is our most popular wood and it grows all around us here in Washington State. The tone is reputed to be most balanced with equal doses of lows, mids and highs. Alder has been the mainstay for Fender bodies for many years and its characteristic tone has been a part of some of the most enduring pieces of modern day contemporary music.

ebaysux · **Posted:** Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:33 am

CAFeathers wrote:

Unfortunately ST-62 stamped bodies and necks were used on a variety of models (54RI, 57RI, 62RI, 68RI, and Standards).

This is what Warmoth has to say about:

Basswood (Tilia americana):

This is a lighter weight wood normally producing Strat® bodies under 4 lbs. The color is white, but often has nasty green mineral streaks in it. This is a closed-grain wood, but it can absorb a lot of finish. This is not a good wood for clear finishes since there is little figure. It is quite soft, and does not take abuse well. Sound-wise, Basswood has a nice, growley, warm tone with good mids. A favorite tone wood for shredders in the 80s since its defined sound cuts through a mix well.

Alder (Alnus rubra):

Alder is used extensively for bodies because of its lighter weight (about four pounds for a Strat® body) and its full sound. Its closed grain makes this wood easy to finish. Alder's natural color is a light tan with little or no distinct grain lines. It looks good with a sunburst or a solid color finish. Because of its fine characteristics and lower price, Alder is our most popular wood and it grows all around us here in Washington State. The tone is reputed to be most balanced with equal doses of lows, mids and highs. Alder has been the mainstay for Fender bodies for many years and its characteristic tone has been a part of some of the most enduring pieces of modern day contemporary music.

Thanks for the info.

Well the body routes are 62, that is for sure. As far as the descriptions from warmoth it does seem this is most likely an alder body. There is no way this one is under 4lbs. As far as the wood color and grain description goes, also points to alder. From what I can make of the raw wood exposed in the neck pocket it is not soft, and it is tan in color, not white with any mineral streaks. Looks like the same as my American which I know is alder.

Does that help narrow down the time period it was made? I also wonder what the "EX2" means. Research indicates it "could" mean for export, but as is often case with certain Fenders, no one really seems to know for sure. Doesn't really bother me if it remains a mystery as long as I like it when it's complete..but it would be nice to know more about it.

Ceri · **Posted:** Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:55 am

Hi guys: some more info on basswood, which amongst other things claims the basswood used by Japanese makers is not the same as that used elsewhere. Just to make things more confusing! :lol:

From this website:

http://www.guitaremporium.co.uk/

Japanese Guitar Emporium wrote:

Basswood:
Basswood is a soft wood with tight grains. Its relatively inexpensive of all the usual guitar woods, and it’s easy on router bits in the factory, easy to sand, and easy to seal and finish. The softness of basswood means that sharp highs are dampened and smoothened. That helps offset the tinny sound associated with knife edged tremolo contacts. The softness also fosters a weaker low end. It’s light in weight, but not because of large pores. Rather it’s low in mass overall. Deep, breathy sub-lows aren’t resonated in Basswood. The reduction in these outer frequencies leaves the mids pronounced in a hypothetical response curve. Its very suitable for the typical guitar range, and very suitable for lead guitar, because of its pronounced “out front” sound. Complex overtones are muted along with the highs leaving a strong fundamental tone.

Production notes: Japanese factories like Ibanez seem to get a tan colored, more uniform Basswood while other Asian factories get a more flawed yellowish basswood. And there seems to be a big difference in tone. A clearer, darker Basswood should produce more sound, while the yellowish lower grade seems to have more of the undesirable tonal qualities of Poplar. A hardtail emphasizes the reduced dynamics of the outer frequencies.

Dunno if that helps any?

BTW: why put a basswood cap on an alder body with a fotoflame finish? Precisely because the basswood has so little figure to the grain and therefore won't show through the photoflame. Question asked, question answered.

Next:

ebaysux wrote:

AND....to re-finish, or not re-finish...that is always the question for me.

Hard to be sure from the pic, but isn't that a nice Sonic Blue finish? Man, that's gorgeous - and if it turns out to be Daphne after all then it still looks great! So: don't refin. Keep it as it is.

Question asked, question answered - again.

Lastly: if you can't tell whether it's poly or nitro then it can't possibly matter, right? Again: leave the finish on there. And that's from someone who loves messing with guitar finishes!

Whatever: get that babe assembled and then show us pics please!

Enjoy - C

ebaysux · **Posted:** Sat Aug 07, 2010 9:12 am

Thanks again Ceri, once again all good answers and all good advice.

As far as the fotofinish I would understand using a basswood cap..but not on a transparent finish..this would make no sense.

And yes...the info you left regarding basswood does add more confusion. Since I am not really going to have the wood analyzed by a wood expert, I am just going to continue looking for the right parts at the best deal and get it playing. Then if it sounds good i could not care less if it was made of foam.

And you are correct about leaving the finish..it is a color I am happy with, and whether it is nitro or poly I don't think re finishing would make that much of a difference in sound..so why bother? Maybe if it gets too banged up in the future I will consider a refin.

I need to finish the USA first, only need a few more parts, I have a USA P-bass that needs paint and re-assembly, an SG bass that needs repair and a few misc necks and bodies that need work for resale...then I can focus on this MIJ build. I will post pics and info as it progresses and try to get a you tube up if it sounds killer.

Ceri · **Posted:** Sat Aug 07, 2010 9:38 am

ebaysux wrote:

And yes...the info you left regarding basswood does add more confusion.

Haha - do you remember the line on a certain sitcom: "Confused? You will be!" That kinda applies to all this timber stuff, don't it? :lol:

ebaysux wrote:

Since I am not really going to have the wood analyzed by a wood expert, I am just going to continue looking for the right parts at the best deal and get it playing. Then if it sounds good i could not care less if it was made of from.

Quite right. Though if you wanted to post a pic of the little bit of bare wood in the neck pocket there are carpenter type folks here who could probably ID it for you. Forum user Shred, just for example. Sadly, I'm probably not your man on that one, though I'll no doubt join everyone else in offering an opinion!

ebaysux wrote:

And you are correct about leaving the finish..it is a color I am happy with, and whether it is nitro or poly I don't think re finishing would make that much of a difference in sound..so why bother?

Great decision. Just so happens I am very partial to that color myself, so I couldn't agree with you more:

It's gonna be a rockin' guitar! Can't wait.

Cheers - C

CAFeathers · **Posted:** Sat Aug 07, 2010 9:41 am

I am picturing this blue body with a .90 one ply black pickguard, black single coil pups, black volume/tone control knobs, black switch tip and black trem arm tip.

ebaysux · **Posted:** Sat Aug 07, 2010 9:50 am

I agree, it seems that kind of blue, or sunburst are the classic colors of the era..

I like the looks of the one you pictured. The only difference this one is going to have a rosewood FB. I must have owned 50 strats in my life..and this will be my first with a rosewood. Personally i like the look of maple better, but the rosewood neck was a deal I could not refuse. An aside from that, all my favorite players sound are with rosewood necked strats so perhaps I will come a bit closer to what I am shooting for.

I will try to get better pics, the ironic thing is we have a few good digital camaras here, but they both need something to make them work that we do not have...well we have not been able to figure out how to get either to work, and we don't have the patience to deal with it really..

My skill and natural ability seem to better suit me designing and building a camera, rather then learning how to operate one that already exists :roll:

JasonSD · **Posted:** Sat Aug 07, 2010 11:07 am

Quote:

I also wonder what the "EX2"

I remember seeing some on ebay before that were EX2 and they said people thought it meant export, but that it didn't, it meant something else, but I can't remember what.

ebaysux · **Posted:** Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:41 pm

JasonSD wrote:

Quote:

I also wonder what the "EX2"

I remember seeing some on ebay before that were EX2 and they said people thought it meant export, but that it didn't, it meant something else, but I can't remember what.

It probably means "EXtra confusing...times 2...haha

CAFeathers · **Posted:** Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:42 pm

ebaysux wrote:

JasonSD wrote:

Quote:

I also wonder what the "EX2"

I remember seeing some on ebay before that were EX2 and they said people thought it meant export, but that it didn't, it meant something else, but I can't remember what.

It probably means "EXtra confusing...times 2...haha

Now the mystery has been solved.... ;-)

ebaysux · **Posted:** Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:58 pm

CAFeathers wrote:

ebaysux wrote:

JasonSD wrote:

Quote:

I also wonder what the "EX2"

I remember seeing some on ebay before that were EX2 and they said people thought it meant export, but that it didn't, it meant something else, but I can't remember what.

It probably means "EXtra confusing...times 2...haha

Now the mystery has been solved.... ;-)

Perhaps....but regardless it makes the vintage USAs even more valuable..as there is no questionable stampings on those. Yes, the Japanese may have produced some really high quality guitars...but if you can't authenticate some due to confusion and stampings that no one can identify or explain...then the mystery will never really be "solved"..but if we except the fact that confusion is the only thing that is consistent..in a sense the mystery has been solved.

At least this reasoning works for me until I can afford a real USA vintage..

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