My HWY1 came from luthier shop for some minor ajustments.
I´ve sended it with floating bridge, it came back flushed.

1) How Float / Flush affects tone and sustain ?
2) I got only 3 springs and using 0.10 gauge, should i use more springs ?
3) When flushed, should it touch the body or be just a bit slightly floated ?
4) Even flushed (or slightly floated) should I tight the 6 screws or let the 4 middle screws a bit loosen ?
5) Should I use the trembar lightly forward with the bridge flush to body and 6 screws tightened?
6) String trees ? Mine got 2 of them, whats the use for that ? Better pass throught them or not ? Stability ? Sustain ?

Some experience from the pros here would help me in this matter.
All suggestions will be considered.
Thanks!

Supposedly more vibrations will be transfered to the body when the bridge is flush, more sustain. If you use more spring it will further push the bridge down. Flush is flush, contact with the body. If the string Ts are there, yes use them, it add a bend and may prevent strings from popping out of the nut.

Definitely agree that flush not only has better tone and sustain, it also stays in tune better. Using more springs, and tightening the tremolo claw screws, will hold the bridge down flush more solidly, and might add a slight pleasing reverb effect to the sound. If you have the bridge flush, tighten the six screws down until they just contact the bridge, being careful not to lift the bridge. If you want to float the bridge, more springs will help stability, but it will be harder to use tremolo. If you want to make the bridge flush AND use tremolo (forward only), then leave the six screws loosened. You will have to adjust your tremolo claw screws for each type of setup that you want. Experiment, have fun!

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Thanks for the replies guys.

So its true when said that flush bridge affects the sound by resonating to the wood better ? Some other say that it should resonate the trem springs and then for the wood for better tone.

With the trem flush and 6 screws tight, there will be no problem by using the tremolo forwards ? Theres no risk on breaking it ?

You'll be safe using the trem while flush to the body but of course can only release tension to the string. So you can only go flat not sharp.

Ah! The age old question; "Which sounds better?" You have to hear it for yourself.

You asked:
"With the trem flush and 6 screws tight, there will be no problem by using the tremolo forwards ? Theres no risk on breaking it ?"

Leave the six screws loose! If you want to use forward only tremolo, and you tighten them, you can crack the body or even bend or break the screws. Only tighten the six screws if you make the bridge flush and don't use tremolo, and then only until the screws contact the bridge, no further, don't lift the back of the bridge.

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I see. Sorry for beeing ignorant in such matters.
In fenders setup guide said that i should only loose the 4 middle screws and have the other 2 tight. Or not so tight then ?

I also saw on a video by Carl Veheyen that he compensates the string tension by arranging the claw with 3 springs letting it more loose at the high e side and more tight at the low e side.

If you tighten any of the screws all the way, due to the beveled edge it will raise the bridge.

So, if the 4 inside screws should be about 1.6 mm, the 2 outside screws should be the same? Or less, say about 0.6mm ?

I prefer 4 or 5 springs in my Strat with the tremolo flush to the body. I keep 5 springs in the MIM and 4 in the '67 RI. The reason being is due to the fact the '67 RI is a far more stable guitar than the MIM; it's very hard to knock it out of whack.

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2006 Fender AVRI 70s Stratocaster: Natural Ash | Sovtek MIG 60 & A No Name Cabinet | Pedals & Junk

To make it easier, tighten the six screws til they just touch the bridge, be careful not to lift the back of the bridge. Then loosen all six screws a half turn and that should be good. Despite what Fender says about the two outside screws, you won't have a true pivot point no matter how you adjust the screws. Don't worry about asking questions, we are all here to learn.

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Ok, I´ve tried yesterday. Putted it in float position 1.6mm, loosen all 6 screws, but too unstable, lost in tune on every bend. If i play with the trem a little harder, goes off tune also. disliked it.

Gone back to flush and while doing that i discovered that if i just put the enough amount on the claw so the bridge touches the body but yet wont apply addicional force to the springs, so when i bend i actually can see the bridge lift a little, SPONGY!! yes that is good for benders, a nice and soft strat.

Aldo I think i would like to have it floating, but with that kinda stability, no cant do. Maybe after i put some locking tuners on it shall help? Cause the bridge claims to be a good steel vintage, as i tested and it attracts magnetism.

Some good tips mentioned here.
I have even noticed on my RI Strats that are very resonate,that by adding or removing a trem spring or two that it does alter the sound,sometimes a very noticable difference,I would have never believed it before a couple of years ago....way back then I would just get the bridge where I wanted it and forget the springs.
I do have the bridge flush on all of mine now.

So, as a 'bender' I will never be able to use a floating trem properly ?
Bends and Trems are 2 different worlds ?

You are correct sir. You can bend strings with a floating bridge, but it will ALWAYS raise the bridge when you do. When you bend the strings, the raised bridge causes the strings to go out of pitch. That's ok if you aren't doing "double-stop bends". If you do double-stop bends, they won't sound as good with a floated bridge.

There is no right way really, it is whatever you prefer. I prefer a flush bridge, held down tightly with 5 springs, so that the bridge remains stable while bending. Double-stop bends sound much sweeter with the stable bridge. Just remember, either way is a trade off in some way. If you want to use tremolo, then you loose tuning stability. If you want tuning stability then you lose tremolo. You can't have it all.

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