Standard Stratocaster Body Wood

Toppscore · **Joined:** Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:16 am **Posts:** 2337

53magnatone wrote:

There are times when you have to deviate a bit, but that is just working with wood.
It's a maleable material, yet it's often in a state of flux due to climatic conditions....
Just stay tuned....BTW, those couple of pics of the house I posted in the build thread, that is all a custom design build, with no blueprints, just what the customer envisioned and what developed to suit her idea's...

What did the city housing permit inspector say when you showed no known
approved "Architectural Digest" diagrams, schematics or professional plans

53magnatone · **Posted:** Thu Aug 23, 2012 9:09 pm

Toppscore wrote:

53magnatone wrote:

There are times when you have to deviate a bit, but that is just working with wood.
It's a maleable material, yet it's often in a state of flux due to climatic conditions....
Just stay tuned....BTW, those couple of pics of the house I posted in the build thread, that is all a custom design build, with no blueprints, just what the customer envisioned and what developed to suit her idea's...

What did the city housing permit inspector say when you showed no known
approved "Architectural Digest" diagrams, schematics or professional plans

....Nothing really, as long as you are rebuilding according to code, it's fine.
this wasn't exactly the first house I've been involve with... :lol:

ebaysux · **Posted:** Thu Aug 23, 2012 9:23 pm

SRV claimed the tone came from HIS own body. Being that he always had a sweet tone no matter what he played there may be some truth to it.

But having owned so many guitars and amps and effects etc of all years and types will say every link in the chain makes some difference and the chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Essentially the chain is your attack, body, fingers, strings, neck, guitar body, pickups, amp and effects if any. Even the room itself can have an effect.

As far as body woods etc I feel the neck and pickups all else being equal has the most to do with the tone of the instrument itself when dealing with a solid body electric guitar but that of course is just my opinion based on years of experience experimenting and building frankenstrats.

I will also note that my best sounding Strats always sounded amazing even when unplugged. You can just tell if it has that magic or not that way sometimes.

Toppscore · **Joined:** Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:16 am **Posts:** 2337

ebaysux wrote:

As far as body woods etc I feel the neck and pickups all else being equal has the most to do with the tone of the instrument itself when dealing with a solid body electric guitar but that of course is just my opinion based on years of experience experimenting and building frankenstrats.

I believe most any and everything has an effect on the sound.
Even your wife yelling at you the day before

Here is my stupid theory of the day for the most important components "in the chain"
Because your chord fingers are behind frets,
typically, the string only touches the fret and the saddle.
Then the pick (hard medium soft rounded pointed large small etc) is involved.

The pickups are right there to "pickup" the noise/vibrations
generated from the pick, nut and the saddles.

What do you think of my stupid pet trick theory?
Toppscore

Toppscore · **Joined:** Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:16 am **Posts:** 2337

53magnatone wrote:

Nothing really, as long as you are rebuilding according to code, it's fine.
this wasn't exactly the first house I've been involve with... :lol:

No biggie. Just thought the inspectors would need the code approved construction
on some form of plans. Guess you just do each stage and get approval :wink:

53magnatone · **Posted:** Fri Aug 24, 2012 3:57 am

Toppscore wrote:

53magnatone wrote:

Nothing really, as long as you are rebuilding according to code, it's fine.
this wasn't exactly the first house I've been involve with... :lol:

No biggie. Just thought the inspectors would need the code approved construction
on some form of plans. Guess you just do each stage and get approval :wink:

No...since that would be too slow, waiting on the building inspector can take days, I make it a point to get to know the building inspector and his/her office and keep them updated ahead of time. this keeps things running on schedule.....

But we are hijacking a thread on body wood....Back to the subject...

Toppscore · **Joined:** Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:16 am **Posts:** 2337

OK. Fender picks good wood.
No need to worry about Fender wood.
Fender hires quality wood buyers in each country.
Each Fender supplier and manufacturing plant must use
good wood, as Fender has a LIFETIME WARRANTY
on all Fender guitars to the original guitar owner.

Therefore, the Squire, Starcaster, and all Fender guitars
at all levels must have good wood.

But, each plant must have some "top-of-the-line" guitar models
and might seek some wood that might be even better than
the original good Fender wood.

Also, some guitars are stained blonde, or are natural or are
color-stained where the Fender wood grain is showing through.
Good chance that "better looking" Fender wood is chosen for
these "wood-grain-bearing" finished guitars.

Any thoughts or opinions or ideas or comments to add????
Toppscore

ebaysux · **Posted:** Sat Sep 01, 2012 8:53 am

Toppscore wrote:

ebaysux wrote:

As far as body woods etc I feel the neck and pickups all else being equal has the most to do with the tone of the instrument itself when dealing with a solid body electric guitar but that of course is just my opinion based on years of experience experimenting and building frankenstrats.

I believe most any and everything has an effect on the sound.
Even your wife yelling at you the day before

Here is my stupid theory of the day for the most important components "in the chain"
Because your chord fingers are behind frets,
typically, the string only touches the fret and the saddle.
Then the pick (hard medium soft rounded pointed large small etc) is involved.

The pickups are right there to "pickup" the noise/vibrations
generated from the pick, nut and the saddles.

What do you think of my stupid pet trick theory?
Toppscore

The string may be only touching the fret and saddle but part of the tone is more then just the string.. your attack, pressure against the neck and body etc all play a part. I was reading an interview once with SRV and he said to press your body hard against the guitar body and play something, then try it away from your body and notice a difference. I did.

Granted the term "tone" has a specific definition perhaps I should use a more generic term like "sound quality"?

Toppscore · **Joined:** Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:16 am **Posts:** 2337

ebaysux wrote:

Toppscore wrote:

ebaysux wrote:

As far as body woods etc I feel the neck and pickups all else being equal has the most to do with the tone of the instrument itself when dealing with a solid body electric guitar but that of course is just my opinion based on years of experience experimenting and building frankenstrats.

I believe most any and everything has an effect on the sound.
Even your wife yelling at you the day before

Here is my stupid theory of the day for the most important components "in the chain"
Because your chord fingers are behind frets,
typically, the string only touches the fret and the saddle.
Then the pick (hard medium soft rounded pointed large small etc) is involved.
The pickups are right there to "pickup" the noise/vibrations
generated from the pick, nut and the saddles.
What do you think of my stupid pet trick theory?
Toppscore

The string may be only touching the fret and saddle but part of the tone is more then just the string.. your attack, pressure against the neck and body etc all play a part. I was reading an interview once with SRV and he said to press your body hard against the guitar body and play something, then try it away from your body and notice a difference. I did.

Cool SRV comment. Thanks.
No, to me, SRV or you could make the difference with a STARcaster or Stratocaster.
Should all be good wood.

My Prayer: Please Fender!!! Tell me which wood is bad and which wood is good.
Mark bad wood in red and good wood in green.
Put the red & green marks near the strap buttons.
That way I will never buy a bad guitar.
And, . . . . I will never tell another soul our secret

Never gonna happen, right? PLMK
Toppscore

ebaysux · **Posted:** Sat Sep 01, 2012 9:05 am

I have a bunch of Starcaster bodies actually I purchased at auction really cheap. They have a very "hollow" sound probably due to so much material cut out of the pickup cavity and it is very thin between the bottom of the cavity to the back of the guitar. Also it has the thinner neck pocket (well the entire body is thinner) like many squires. I think that has much more to do with its "tone" then the type of wood it is made from. I am going to have to add material if I want it to sound and sustain anything like a "real" Strat. I also had to cut and modify the shape some as they have a unique shape by the horns and neck pocket. Not drastic but enough where it bothered me lol.

Toppscore · **Joined:** Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:16 am **Posts:** 2337

ebaysux wrote:

I have a bunch of Starcaster bodies actually I purchased at auction really cheap. They have a very "hollow" sound probably due to so much material cut out of the pickup cavity and it is very thin between the bottom of the cavity to the back of the guitar. Also it has the thinner neck pocket like many squires. I think that has much more to do with its "tone" then the type of wood it is made from. I am going to have to add material if I want it to sound and sustain anything like a "real" Strat. I also had to cut and modify the shape some as they have a unique shape by the horns and neck pocket. Not drastic but enough where it bothered me lol.

Interesting. I bought a Super Modified Strat that started out as a STARcaster.
Now, the only original items left are the neck, frets and body wood. Tuners,
pickguards, all metal, all screws, all wiring, all pots, bridge nut tremolo, etc.
have all been replaced with high quality components. Why the guy started with
a STARcaster, I'll never know. Bet it just kept growing and adding like
Old Lady Winchester building the Winchester Mystery House down in San Jose.
:lol:

Me, I would have used an MIA body and neck, at least :idea:

ebaysux · **Posted:** Sat Sep 01, 2012 9:21 am

If anyone started with a Starcaster for a custom it was either because they had it laying around for free, or did what I did and purchased "blems" for like 25 bucks a piece. The necks are rosewood fingerboard large headstock like some 70's and not too bad. I already discussed the bodies. The rest of the hardware is pretty much useless to anyone but a beginner and even that is questionable.

I have not fully assembled one to try so I can't say for sure what it's true potential is but I do feel I can get them to play well and sound like I want with some mad scientist experimentation.

Toppscore · **Joined:** Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:16 am **Posts:** 2337

ebaysux wrote:

If anyone started with a Starcaster for a custom it was either because they had it laying around for free, or did what I did and purchased "blems" for like 25 bucks a piece. The necks are rosewood fingerboard large headstock like some 70's and not too bad. I already discussed the bodies. The rest of the hardware is pretty much useless to anyone but a beginner and even that is questionable.
I have not fully assembled one to try so I can't say for sure what it's true potential is but I do feel I can get them to play well and sound like I want with some mad scientist experimentation.

Following are three photos of a Very Hot, Very Cool, Very playable
Strat that has STARcaster wood and nothing more.

You are right, the seller was a guitar shop tech.
Decided to do every freakin' thing possible.
He was down and out financially, so I got it for a swan song.
He logged the hours worked on it and it was in the several hundreds
as he tried different materials and components and shielding and
stated there is a half-pound of copper in this guitar.
I was first attracted to it because of the varitone switching possibilities.
But, little did I know I got a craftsman's personal piece of pride and joy.

He wrote and emailed many times. I took notes.
Following is what this special guitar is made of and it is very well made
from a meticulous dedicated OCD Fender Guitar Fanatic.

A most amazing story within a story . . . .

============================
Fender Custom STARcaster/Strat * Pro Overhauled/Rebuilt, Varitone switching * Skulls case
Vintage wound (5.9-6.0-6.1kohms loaded) pickups which are triple wax potted
Sugar Maple Neck * Rosewood Fretboard * Locking Tuners * Solid Basswood Body
Vintage Sunburst Paint * Varitone Switching * 6 point fulcrum tremolo * 100% Overhauled/Rebuilt

SPECS: Strung with DR 11's. Locking Tuners. Large mass steel, Tone/Resonater trem block. Mod 6 point Fulcrum trem, much better than pivot trem. Steel Bridge Plate for that Fender EDGE. Light alloy string saddles for Fine Tone. Includes Strap and Strap Locks. Fender OEM CTS 250 pots. Fender Grease Bucket treble roll off tone circuit based, using vintage Sprauge Z5U Dielectric 1960's OEM Fender Caps, with varitones 1960's PIO hermetically sealed
Caps addition (5 xxxxx varitone instructions and tips included). Premium Gold tracings 5-way switch.
Pure 99.99% copper wiring, 0.09ohms per foot.
Vintage wound (5.9-6.0-6.1kohms loaded) pickups which are triple wax potted. Full EMI RFI electronics shielding, including the pickup covers. Vintage 1960's type control knobs. Premium pickguard. All new hardware and electronics. Custom one of a kind Headstock Grafix under lustre lacquer. "Custom" logo neck plate.
5 XXXX switching varitone system . Unique hardware configuration.
Includes Coffin Design Tantrum Ltd. Ed. Skulls case. Full fretwork and set-up. Intonation is set for correct pitch full scale, when tuned, fretted or Harmonics at the 12th fret. Includes Fender Tuner. 40 hours into overhaul, 20 hours into headstock art. Pickguard decals are removeable, if you wish.

=========================================
INFO: The Body and Neck of this STARCASTER STRAT are CNC machined(CNC stands for “Computer Numerical Control) ; like all production guitars produced these days....impossible to foul up on CNC cutter. These guitars are completed by apprentices, and require a heavily detailed Overhaul and set-up (above product's delivered state) to bring out the true abilities the body and neck possess. The body, neck, frets and string nut are original. All other parts are updated premium hardware and all wiring, controls, and electronics have been Upgraded with Premium components.

=========================================
The finish looks like, and shows wear like, typical Fender OEM Polyester over Fullerplast, (finish is worn a bit*nicks*dings*scratches. Photos do not clearly show this, even though files are 14MB base. Photo #7 enlarged, does show the only major scratch...between trem back-plate and neck-plate). Neck was originally shot with Satin Lacquer, the back of which I wet sanded with 1500, and buffed out with a microfiber cloth. Very Smooth. Guitar headstock face is shot with clear lustre lacquer. The frets are in brand new condition (yes, I did lightly level, crown & dress, and polish the frets...that is part of any overhaul). STARCASTER is an older model. Neck lacquer and wood have aged nicely. This is a Basswood body, very resonant, and a Sugar Maple neck.

=========================================
Most varitone switching options are self-explanatory, though several switching modes offer hidden tonal values. Different amps will use different tone switching options, yet, the Guitar is adaptable to any amp. Some tonal options will work well with one amp, and some options will work better with other amps. With tube amps, all tonal options work well. Verified, sounds excellent through Blues Jr. III Blonde FSR w/Jensen 12N, Super Sonic 22, Dean Markley RM40DR, Ibanez 15 watt tube screamer, Blackstar 20 watt HT20, Vox 15watt CC tube, Fender Frontman 25R, Fender Super Champ X2, Marshall 30 watt solidstate. Although this is the least expensive Guitar, GuitarGenie (previous eBay account ID 'deadalest' 1997-2007) has offered in a very long time, it is exceptional
=========================================
FULLY OVERHAULED and Professionally Set-up * Plays as well as any Great Playing Guitar.
Unique varitone switching provides easily controlled, endless Tonal Variations using Vintage
Ceramic 1960's Fender OEM SPRAGUE Z5U Dielectric 0.10 & 0.022mfd (Fender also used Z5V),
SPRAGUE Vitamin Q Paper/Foil/Oil Capacitors 0.010mfd, Fast Brand P/F in Oil 0.022mfd.
Guitar is used...and as such, has some scratches, dings and other signs of wear
=========================================
I feel these photos do not show the surface scratches on the body finish accurately. Photo #4 shows some of the scratches on the upper horn, in the area around the hot spot highlight. These are mostly polishing scratches, made by a dry cloth. Photos make the body finish much newer looking than the 10 or more years it has on it. In bright light...many polishing scratches are visible. This Guitar is a player, and has had much use. On a brighter side, the frets are the hardest I have come across, and probably will last another 10-20 years. Also, on the headstock, above the 6th string tuner, there is a flaw in the finish, on this relisting, I added a photo (#11) that better shows this.
======================================
Guitar works best with 11's. Ernie Ball Power Slinky's are Great, I just had 3 set's of DR 11's around,
so that is the fresh set. 10's? plays okay, with one minor problem. For perfect intonation...string saddle needs to be drawn all the way back to the point that the adjustment screw hits the string. Great for tuning stability, but, the screw (with 10's correctly intonated) has to be loosened slightly to change strings. The 11's sound much better...fuller. The prime salesman at the Fender shop played the guitar...usually plays 9's, couldn't believe 11's were on guitar 'cause he was bending as easily as 9.
===================================
Invested, figure $100 for the new case...the original $100 I paid for the body and neck...and $400 in upgrade hardware...etc., and $65 in vintage capacitors, plus ebay and paypal fees...AND WAY TOO MUCH SHOP TIME!
I only did this on a challenge from the Fender dealer and the Fender rep.
(While my woman was in the hospital...I needed something to burn up idle time).
I do Tech work here in Daytona...still occasionally build a few instruments, 1/2 time retired.
=================================
A guitar is wood, metal plastic, wiring, magnets etc. If a guitar is CNC machined (CNC stands for “Computer Numerical Control) as this one has been, theoretically, it should be able to be set up to play excellently....what I did not know, Is the amount of work (time) it would require to accomplish this with a guitar that is priced low...and only priced low because apprentices assemble these guitars...basically for free...and then those apprentices are allowed to move on to the regular production line. I actually had to work at correctly setting the frets for three hours....same time it takes to set frets on a new neck.
=========================
Just while I'm thinking about it. Volume control keeps tone stays clean up to "7". I was playing the Super Sonic 22 with amp volume on 6, vintage channel...getting great clean tones (I know you have the 60...you gotta try the 22....it is different)....then I started to roll the volume up on the guitar to see what kind of breakup I could get. The sales guy was like..."I was wondering why the amp wasn't breaking up on 6 volume..." I said, "Man, you can always get a clean sound, even on amp volume 8-9, if you roll back the volume on the guitar". With this guitar...like I said, stays nice and clean with guitar volume setting between 4-7.
=====================
the decals are removable, and the guitar will have high-end looks without the decals. I recommend leaving the switch decals on until you get used to what they do. I included Maguires plastic polish (works on headlights, also),
to remove decal adhesive; removing decals leaves a small amont of adhesive - the polish will remove that residue

=====================
Don't forget, amp control adjustments can interact w/guitar switches & control settings

First, start with Tone by-pass (BP) switches in normal position, bright/dark at bright,
AUXtone off, and TrebleRollOff in off position.

The tone knobs on strats are a bit interactive. If you are playing the bridge pickup, if you have the lower tone control at 4...and good tone, but a bit dark...the upper tone control can be set closer to 10, to mildly brighten the lower's setting. Also, if you are using the neck position pickup, have a very good tone, but want a slight fine tuning...the lower tone control can slightly brighten or darken the tone you have set for the neck pickup.
* Middle pickup is mostly controlled by lower tone control.
* Switch positions 2-4, are bridge-middle/middle/middle-neck ~ and both tone controls can be used to control tone.

Varitone switches: TrebleRollOff...is mostly when you are using the bridge pickup. When bridge lower tone control is set to 0-5, (note: above 5 tone setting, treblerolloff is less noticeable when switched on), and you are rolling volume from 7 thru 10 to get breakup, the TrebleRollOff switch when switched on, will take the overly bright signal associated with 7-10 volume settings to a more pleasing tone. This is a subtle adjustment more noticeable at volume, and can be used anytime you would like to roll off treble top end, with out killing the treble edge. You can use this switch with all pickups, yet, is most apparent with the bridge tones.

Bright/Dark...you can start in the bright position, set your amp with switch in bright position, and if you want a darker tone, ...switch to dark. Also, you may start in the dark position, setting your amp with dark as normal setting, and switch to bright...this switch has more options later.

Bridge/Neck ToneBP switches - True Tone By Pass for the bridge & neck pickups. When switched to BP, the tone controls are not active on the pickup selected, but the tone controls are active on pickup switch positions 2-3-4, when the middle pickup is active. In true By Pass setting (for instance on a Super Sonic 22) the wide open pickups give you a very wide tonal range via pick attack......and.....if you want tone....switched in quickly,...you can switch the Bright /Dark switch to dark to give a good creamy breakup when you want, by setting amp volume to 6-9.

Also, the first use of AUXtone is here. When you switch the neck pickup to ToneBP, you can switch on AUXtone, this gives a separate tone capacitor (FAST 0.022MFD PIO) for the neck pickup...controlled by the upper tone control, and the original GreaseBucket tone circuit on the lower tone control for middle and bridge pickups .... and with pickup switch positions 2-4, the upper and lower tone controls are more interactive. You can kick in the AUXtone when neck tone BP switch is in norm mode....and this will give an overall ZZTop type tone, but usually you will want to add treble on your amp in this mode...maybe reduce Bass too. Ultimate ZZTop dark...switch on AUXtone, the dark switch, and TrebleRollOff at the same time...adjust your amp to suit.

No combination of switching is incorrect.....nor will any combination kill the signal......all switch positions maintain output signal. Different amps may require different switching setups, yet, all the Fenders I played this thru, all switching options are applicable. The 15 watt Ibanez TubeScreamer amp sounded great with ToneBP mode, and the bright/dark switch set on dark. Simple set up, did it all.

=========================
Am putting fresh strings on. Recommend changing one string at a time....keeps tension on neck so it stays in tune right away. Micro fiber cloth included fresh polishes frets with a few runs up and down fret board. If you must remove all strings for one reason or another, neck truss rod tension and string tension will need to equalize again....So...tune guitar to pitch first...then tune about 1/4 set up (E between E and F...same 1/4 step all strings)...let sit for an hour...then tune to normal pitch. This takes the stretch out of the strings...allows string tension to balance with truss tension...gives tuning stability.

Tremolo is modified fulcrum tremolo ... and actually works correctly.

Tuner included works with several instruments. Instructions included. When set to "G" for guitar, will only tune strings open...when set to "C" for chromatic, reads all notes and pitches...tuning at twelfth fret either with finger pressure or harmonic, will give near true intonation. Balancing the harmonic reading, reading fingering the twelfth fret, and open string reading...will give absolute correct pitch. Tuning meter is sometimes a bit slow reading some pitches....simple computer chip has to decipher harmonics.

ebaysux · **Posted:** Sat Sep 01, 2012 9:52 am

Well the guy seems to know his stuff. Ironic you mention 1/2 pound of copper. I was thinking of using a bunch of copper and brass for these guitars to help with the lack of density of the body and help with sustain and resonance. Guess I will find out for myself one day. Got a bunch of other projects that I want to finish first while I build up the hardware I need for the Starcasters. I will post some pics of the builds when I get a chance.

Toppscore · **Joined:** Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:16 am **Posts:** 2337

ebaysux wrote:

Well the guy seems to know his stuff. Ironic you mention 1/2 pound of copper. I was thinking of using a bunch of copper and brass for these guitars to help with the lack of density of the body and help with sustain and resonance. Guess I will find out for myself one day. Got a bunch of other projects that I want to finish first while I build up the hardware I need for the Starcasters. I will post some pics of the builds when I get a chance.

Look forward to it.
Remember, Fender = Good Wood

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