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Posted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 5:45 pm
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Thanks DetroitBlues!

OK -- got the new body. looks GREAT:

[img][img]http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee34/Mercury7Music/body-1.jpg[/img]

The workmanship is much nicer, and this body is lighter than the last one. Fantastic woodgrain! And as you can see the trem cavity is how you'd expect it 8). I bolted the neck on and it fit right snug in the neck cavity.

I'm in a happy place right now. My only problem is I won't be able to work on it this weekend. The band's playing on Saturday night which will take up most of Sat. Maybe I'll play with it some on Sunday... :wink:

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Posted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 6:58 pm
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Sweet koz looking forward to it. Any hints on how you're gonna make that woodgrain pop? (as you so eloquently put it :p)

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Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 3:25 am
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Impulse7 wrote:
Sweet koz looking forward to it. Any hints on how you're gonna make that woodgrain pop? (as you so eloquently put it :p)


Well, my thinking is I'd like to do a blonde type of finish to play off the yellowed pups. Not quite butterscotch, and not really a banana color either. Maybe more like a vintage white with a bit of age -- but the grain will show thru an even haze of aged white tinted laquer.

The ReRanch has the laquers I need to accomplish this look. First up, sanding sealer...

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Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 11:37 am
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[img][img]http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee34/Mercury7Music/body-1.jpg[/img]
Nice grain pattern. However, are you planning HB's for this baby? If not, why not a vintage routing instead of this "Fender" generic type one size fits all? Gets you more wood. :idea:

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Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 1:37 pm
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ZZDoc wrote:

Nice grain pattern. However, are you planning HB's for this baby? If not, why not a vintage routing instead of this "Fender" generic type one size fits all? Gets you more wood. :idea:


Nope -- SSS config. Truth is, it's no great shakes for me. And this is a licensed generic Fender body, so I expected the HSH cavity...

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Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 8:57 am
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Nice looking body.

Please get to work on it and show us the pictures!

We love to watch builds ...

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Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 9:16 am
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quote="kozy814 Nope -- SSS config. Truth is, it's no great shakes for me. And this is a licensed generic Fender body, so I expected the HSH cavity...
Roger that! So as Orville suggests...."waiting on you all." :wink:

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Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 10:19 am
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ZZDoc wrote:
[
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quote="kozy814 Nope -- SSS config. Truth is, it's no great shakes for me. And this is a licensed generic Fender body, so I expected the HSH cavity...
Roger that! So as Orville suggests...."waiting on you all." :wink:


If I didnt have a bunch of errands to run before haulin' gear tonight, I'd have the pile o' parts out on the table. I did "strum" the body and neck assembly, tho... :wink:

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Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 10:22 am
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A much better looking body Kozy!! Looking forward to watching and reading about your build. Congrats!! :)


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Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 4:41 pm
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Ceri wrote:

... Try this: put the neck snug into its cavity and clamp it in place (with padding to prevent the clamp denting the wood or hurting the neck). Now measure 25 1/2 inches from the front (fingerboard side) of the nut, and place the bridge with the breaking point of the top e string saddle in that spot. Like this:
Image

Now pencil some dots through the screw holes, like this:
Image

Then take a photo and let us see where those dots end up, please. That'll show how close to the cavity the bridge screws will really come and you and we can make our judgements accordingly.

Be aware, there is more to correctly placing the bridge than this! We'll cover that later...

All for now. You'd better give your employer some of your time... :wink:

Cheers - C


Back on the bench gents...

Took Ceri's notes from above -- with the neck bolted on, and positioning the bridge, I left pencil marks with the trem (high E and D saddles) positioned 25.5 inches from the fretside edge of the nut. Below is a photo:

Image

How does this look? ....

Wondering from this point, what's my next move? What I'd like to do is get this in place and see where I stand with the pickguard assembly.


Thanks, Kozy :D

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'73 Fender Mustang
Gibson LP Deluxe RI '69
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Gretsch Pro Jet w/Bigsby
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Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 6:22 pm
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Haven't heard from Ceri in a while, and Andy's out of commission...

Maybe a bump'll help...

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Fender Active Jazz Bass
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Gretsch Pro Jet w/Bigsby
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Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 10:14 pm
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Koz, judging by what you've done there, it looks like it's lining up pretty good. You need to note that where you've traced the outline of your bridge and then marked the holes on the tape, Ceri has extended lines from the outside of the final screw holes in his bridge. Thats why your pics look a little different.

You mentioned that the scale length is correct, it clearly looks like you have enough wood between the bridge cavity and the screw placement for a strong join. If the block of the bridge is clear in the cavity for good movement I'd say you're good to go.

Go on, Get cracking :), fill this thread with more content :)

Looking forward to this finish you're talking about

Dan

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Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 2:26 am
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kozy814 wrote:
Haven't heard from Ceri in a while, and Andy's out of commission...

Hi Kozy: Ceri is currently in Denmark sailing Viking ships - I kid you not! That's taking up plenty of time, and anyhow I've looked in occasionally and found absolutely no threads I needed to post on. (Been some nasty atmosphere around the Forum recenty too - do you think? A good time to be away...)

However:
Ceri wrote:
Be aware, there is more to correctly placing the bridge than this! We'll cover that later...

From the look of your photo you've done it all right so I doubt you need my input here. But just in case.

Frustratingly, I took a bunch of photos to show how to do this bit - but they're the other side of the North Sea at this moment, so I'll have to just describe it.

In addition to getting the bridge placed the correct distance from the neck (getting the scale length right) you also need to position it correctly side to side. That is, in the correct relation to top and bottom e/E strings.

1. Bolt your neck into position and make sure it is set exactly how you want it in the pocket.

2. Run a long steel ruler down the bass side of the neck so that it is exactly in line with the edge and the far end reaches the bridge cavity.

3. Draw a line off that ruler where it passes the the bridge position.

4. Do the same thing on the treble side of the neck.

5. You now have pencil marks that show where the outside edges of the neck would be if it extended all the way to the bridge, and these guide you in positioning the bridge between bass and treble sides of the guitar. That is why the outside lines in my photo (above) are not parallel but angle slightly. I think you have done the same thing - if so... you didn't need any of this! :)

6. Lastly, I also measure off those outside lines to find a center line, which you see marked in my photo. It just helps a little further with positioning the bridge, which can be deceptive to eyeball because the various cavities are not symetrical. It helps but is not essential.

Couple of extra reminders. When you measure your scale length from the front edge of the nut be sure to do so to the breaking point on the top e string saddle, and have that saddle set nearly all the way forward (toward the neck). You are very unlikely ever to need to make the speaking length of the strings shorter when intonating the instrument, but you want to have plenty of backward adjustment space, especially if you plan to use larger gauge strings. And you don't want to find your bottom E saddle bumping up against the back of the bridge.

Another thought. Decide now whether you plan to let lacquer go inside the neck pocket or not. That's a matter of preference, but if you do then do all of this measuring after finishing the body, because the thickness of the lacquer will affect the positions, believe it or not.

Last thing. Unless you have access to a really big pillar drill you are not going to be able to use it to make the six screw holes. Even ordinary workshop pillar drills won't reach far enough across the body (mine isn't big enough, and it's a nice one).

So you will likely have to drill those holes with a hand-held drill. It is amazingly difficult to make those holes go in absolutely vertical because you can't see the angle of the drill bit from above whilst holding the drill. So it is really useful to have someone else on hand to look at the angle and tell you to move it this way or that whilst drilling. Preferably two people looking from different angles.

Nothing like crooked screw holes to spoil this job.

Also, using "brad point" or "piloted" drill bits makes this job seriously more accurate than ordinary ones. Well, well worth the minimal expense of buying a set if you don't already have some - you will never use anything else ever again.

Finally (phew!), be very careful to measure the correct depth to drill and transfer it onto you drill bits with a little piece of masking tape. The tips of the screws will come very close to the surface of the spring cavity round the other side: it is not a disaster if your screw holes come out the other side (they sometimes do on real Fenders) but it kinda spoils the feel of the job. Easy to avoid.

I bet you knew most or all of that. Just spelling it all out for anyone else as might find it useful.

'Nother very long post. Any help?

Cheers - C

PS: Seriously nice piece of timber you have there. If ever there was a case of a problem turning out to your advantage the story of that body purchase is one that ended happily, right? Way to go! :D


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Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 4:30 am
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Ceri -- Sailing Viking Ships -- Awesome! We don't get cool holidays like that here in the states. It's just fireworks shows and Bar-B-Q's for us yanks :wink:

Thanks again for the priceless info. I had not yet run the straight edge along the the bass and treble sides of the neck, so that should do the trick for lining up the bridge - I thought either this technique or running a guitar string in the nut groove down to the both E-saddles -- I like your method better. I'll follow all the other steps you describe to be sure everything is tweeked just right.

I also have a decent drill press, but by the looks of things I'll have the same problem with space. Probably going to drill these by hand starting with pilot holes...

Also thought about the finish -- going to keep it out of the neck pocket...

Again, many thanks, Ceri -- enjoy the rest of your trip! In the words of Impulse 7 I'll "Get Crackin" 8) tonight prepping the body and drill hopefully on Friday. I may post some photos of the prep just to make double-secret-sure I'm on the right track :D

Thanks all, Kozy

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'78 Fender Stratocaster
Epi USA Texan '64 RI signed by Paul McCartney
'73 Fender Mustang
Gibson LP Deluxe RI '69
Fender Active Jazz Bass
Guild GADm20e Acoustic Guitar
Epi Casino RI
Gretsch Pro Jet w/Bigsby
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Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 3:40 pm
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kozy814 wrote:
Haven't heard from Ceri in a while, and Andy's out of commission...

Hi Kozy!

Just thought i'd give you a quick post seening as i got a mention! :D

I concur with Mr C. (he's very good at describing the process, isn't he!?! looking forward to pics!)

I'd run the strings as well just to make sure :wink:

I had planned to have the body shaping on my build done by now so you would be able to see the Big Hairy method for bridge placement in pic's but I reckon by the time I get round to it you'd have already built and played though a set of strings on your new axe! :lol:

Anyway its all Looking good to me mate!

Ceri wrote:
Hi Kozy: Ceri is currently in Denmark sailing Viking ships - I kid you not! That's taking up plenty of time, and anyhow I've looked in occasionally and found absolutely no threads I needed to post on. (Been some nasty atmosphere around the Forum recenty too - do you think? A good time to be away...)

Say Hi to Odin for me! :wink:

Humm...haven't seen Nik for a while...Last time he was gone this long it took a little guessing game to draw him out. I might have to have a chat with Randel the Cat and see if we can come up with a new game for my thread while we wait for work to calm down (it's proper bonkers at the mo!) Prehaps his templates have arrived and he's getting to grips with his new table router!

Andy

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