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Post subject: Funky G String
Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 8:32 am
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I just purchased a Standard Strat (Mexican) and I'm having a problem with the G string harmonics. I understand that this pretty typical with the G string but this one (and BTW all the other "Mexicans" with one string tree) that I tried all have the same issue. I'm getting BAD feedback into the amp. If I mute the string between the nut and tuner with foam it stops. I hesitate to add a 2nd string tree as obviously the design did not warrant one unless it was cost savings? I would appreciate any ideas on how to remedy this situation. Thanks!


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Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 3:03 pm
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I had no such problem with my '09 MIM Standard Strat with the stock pickups or since I replaced them with SCNs.

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Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 9:53 pm
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That sounds like you need some work done on your nut.

One way you can superficially examine it is to remove the string and visually determine which way the groove in the nut points. It should have a longitudinal $@!&# to it, with the elevated end towards the bridge and the depressed end pointing at the tuner. This small but visible detail ensures that the string breaks cleanly over the top of the nut; if the angle hasn't been set up properly you'll have problems with tuning, stability, and harmonics.

My recommendation is that, unless you have some experience dealing with problems of this nature and a proper set of files, you make a trip to the technician. Conversely you might want to consider returning the guitar if it is still under warranty. Mexican Fenders are very consistent but any manufacturer, regardless of numbers, quality, or reputation, can occasionally produce a dud. Dodgy nuts are easy to overlook and relatively difficult to repair.


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Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 9:54 pm
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Apparently Fender.com thinks I'm a racist. Since when has the word "S!ope" lost its primary denotation as an incline or a gradient?


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Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 2:15 am
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Thanks for the replies. I will check with guitar tech on the nut.


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Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 3:07 am
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Don't touch the nut.
Your guitar just need a set up by a GOOD technician.

RE: a intonnation set up. G Sadlle adjustment.

And/ or neck curve trust rod adjustment


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Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 5:12 am
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Just spoke with best guitar tech recommended in our area and he has seen this issue and solution that he has done on dozens of MIM's and others is to add additional string tree (modified) to make a slight break at nut to stop overtones. Apparently he positions and mods them a bit to keep the string angle to the tuning peg (depending on whether tuners are,even,staggered,locking,etc) aligned correctly. He says some people don't want additional trees from an asthetics standpoint but he said this is the best permanent solution he knows. Thanks for your help and replies!


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Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 6:17 am
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Good solution I think


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Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 6:35 am
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Makes sense to me.


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Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 9:21 am
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proline1 wrote:
Just spoke with best guitar tech recommended in our area and he has seen this issue and solution that he has done on dozens of MIM's and others is to add additional string tree (modified) to make a slight break at nut to stop overtones. Apparently he positions and mods them a bit to keep the string angle to the tuning peg (depending on whether tuners are,even,staggered,locking,etc) aligned correctly. He says some people don't want additional trees from an asthetics standpoint but he said this is the best permanent solution he knows. Thanks for your help and replies!


If you string the guitar up right, you won't need that. If the string is wound were as the windings move down closer to the headstock, the angle will correct itself if you let it wrap around 3 or 4 times.

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Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 4:05 pm
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Every single strat ever that doesnt have one need's a 2nd string tree for the G string. It's the one area I will fully admit Gibsons superiority over Fender.

The .017 (or thereabouts) unwound G needs a shed load of pull down or it takes on a kind of squarewave sound. If you can get your G down to a .014 or up to a .020 gauge the problem disappears.

Your tech is bang on the money mate. Tell him Nick says well done, not everyone hears it. Every strat I've ever played suffers it, including my CS guitar with staggered tuners. Nut slot break angle won't sort it, you'll carve into the neck before the problem goes away and likely still need a 2nd tree.

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Post subject:
Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 4:22 pm
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currently my MIM and american special are getting the works from a good tech. i'll respond once i get them back since the MIM suffered the same problem. but, after hearing mr. niks advice, i wish i'd have had this done while i've got the cash. dangit to heck! i always trust mr. nik.
i'll get back with you with the results


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Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 4:38 pm
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Don't discount Jeff's contribution. It could well be a saddle problem. All I'm saying is that I hear it on every 25.5" scale fender guitar, regardless of nut/saddle type. All I can promise you I've spent hours upon hours listening to open strings when designing compensated nuts. That doesn't make me infallible, I could be reading the syptoms wrong.

Play the open G then compare it's ring to the open B.If you hear a kind of boxy, muted quality to the G, thats it.

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Posted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 3:15 am
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I think I was wrong ( june 8 ): No string T is needed fot good intonnation or to have the guitar in tune.

I think, string T is for a "better sustain"
I have a 52 reissue Tele. It come with no string T.


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