I've got a nice 2009 American Standard, which I generally love, but the one thing that bothers me is the adjustment screws on the bridge saddles - I periodically hit them with the palm of my fretting hand, and they're kind of sharp. I guess I was kind of expecting a nicer feel on the nicer guitar.

Is there something wrong with the bridge, my picking, or do I just have sensitive hands?

I have had the guitar set up, and while it plays nicer, that issue is still there.

alot of people compalin about that. fender offers different aftermarket bridges you can get. they have a bridge with smoother edges. some of the mid90s starts had them.

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1966 Duo Sonic II White
1970 F-1030
1976 Mustang Sunburst
2001 Jagstang Sonic Blue
Cyclone Candy Apple Red
Stratocaster MIM Flat Red
1976 Fender Vibro Champ
1994 Fender Blues Deluxe USA

My '09 MIM's bridge is like that. I was considering taking an emery board to it. Not sure I will as it doesn't really seem to bother me as much as I thought it would.

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'08 Fender Am. Std. Jazz bass, maple fretboard, charcoal frost metallic finish
'10 Squier VM Jazz bass, maple fretboard, natural finish
Ampeg BA115
'09 MIM standard Strat, maple fretboard, sunburst finish
Fender Super Champ XD

I'm afraid that is just kind of the 'feel' of the 'vintage style' Strat bridge.

They do sell the adjustment grub screws in different lengths, so if yours are sitting rather high above the saddle, you could think about replacing the screws on that particular saddle with some shorter ones.

I have a '57 USA reissue which obviously is fitted with a vintage bridge assy and that too has a rather 'rough' feel to it. It's just something you get used to.

I also have a '99 USA Standard, which is fitted with the 'deluxe' style bridge and that has a much smoother, more comfortable feel to it.

It just comes down to what you personally prefer really.

Just for curiosity, what technique are you using to hit the bridge with your fretting hand?

Russ

Its the nature of the beast. Most players want the vintage style trem, even though Fender has tried many designs. It may be easier to grow a pair than replace a bridge.

Hmmm. I hadn't noticed that. Perhaps he meant picking hand?

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'08 Fender Am. Std. Jazz bass, maple fretboard, charcoal frost metallic finish
'10 Squier VM Jazz bass, maple fretboard, natural finish
Ampeg BA115
'09 MIM standard Strat, maple fretboard, sunburst finish
Fender Super Champ XD

I have an 09 American Standard and the saddles and bridge are really nice and smooth. I have noticed that problem on lesser guitars that I have owned, but surprised your feeling that on your American Standard.

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2008 American Standard w/ Hot Noiseless
2009 Hwy One Tele
2010 Vox AC15 w/Greenback and Top Boost
Fulltone Fulldrive II Mosfet
TC Nova Delay
Hardwire RV 7
EB Jr Volume Pedal
BOSS TU3 Tuner
Digidesign Eleven Rack

Oops, I meant picking hand. Usually it's my chords that give me trouble, so I get used to referring to that hand.

The stamped saddles were part of the redesign of the "new" American Standard.

"•A new bridge with improved bent-steel saddles and a copper-infused high-mass block for increased resonance and sustain."

The older American series used a cast block saddle similar to the ones still used on the American Deluxe. The adjustment screws are sunk in the saddle and it is much more comfortable to play if you do alot of palm muting or rest the edge of your palm on the saddles as I tend to do. Strat players generally have to play tighter in that saddle "pocket" simply because of the way the guitar is designed. Some players say the bent steel saddle lends itself to more sustain because the string is touching less metal and vibrates longer. I think its cheaper to make a stamped part than a cast part so Fender has a win win there. If it continues to bother you look at some aftermarket saddles by Callaham or Graphtech. Its an easy fix. Just save the original saddles in case you ever sell it.

That's the one. To save searching, you are looking for the "short Strat saddle height" screws, slot or allen type as you prefer, from this page:

http://www.wdmusic.com/parts_hardware_s ... ridge.html

Those screws are usually available in guitar shops, or from online sellers the world around. The easy solution to this problem.

Or some people just file the bottom of the screw down till it is short enough for the top to disappear into the saddle. Be sure to round the bottom end of that screw out nicely when you're done or you will create other problems.

Good luck - C

It's really the tops of the saddle height screws that scrape my hand on occasion. It just seemed silly, after all the specifications and new work Fender advertised for the revised Am. Standard, that I'd need to change the equipment on it.

I'll look into the shorter screws. Thanks!