Could someone tell me why some players are fixing their springs bridge in a triangle way against a parallel way?

If you look at a Gilmour or Blackmore Stratocaster signature the bridge springs are in a triangle way but a SRV or a Rory Gallagher all the springs are parallel.

It should affect the play.. right? but how?

Thanks,
mono_sound

"You Haven't Heard Sgt. Pepper Till You've Heard It In Mono"...

It's just another one of those things.

When people have an option to do something one way or another, there will no longer be a standard or right way to do something. Then those that do it one way will have a pile of B.S. as to why they do it like this or that.

Springs pull on the block, to counter STRING pull (tension), claw adjustment will mean a heck of a lot more then how the springs are arranged.


I don't really think it means Jack which way they are, but mechanically I would say having them all straight would create a more even "pull" on the block.

sjtalon is on to a lot there, the placement of the claw probably does have a lot to do with it, but I would think that the "triangular" placement would lengthen the spring just a little, meaning there's a little bit of pre-tension on it, vs the straight spring which would be slightly shorter, therefore not as much tension on the spring at rest?

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It would seem, the trianlge method is a means to get similar, even tension, without as many springs being used. Is it right, does it work, does it matter? Try it for yourself, if you like it , keep it that way. I have several guitars with various configurations (triangle and parallel) both work fine for me.

I've done both and haven't noticed a difference. It's a personal preference thing.

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Tension. Springs slowly wear out. This stretches old springs out so they can retain their hold on the tremolo block...

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Makes more sense to tighten the claw screws a tiny bit. I'm going with the individualism theory; the tension has to remain equal on both sides of the fulcrum in order for a bridge to float correctly. Otherwise, a little past what it takes to hold the bridge baseplate flush to the body while bending is all it takes to hold tune.

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I'd rather not touch a screw when its ment to be in a fixed position, unlike springs. Realistically, I'd just replace the springs.

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Meant to be in a fixed position? That's why they're screws my friend, so that they can be adjusted. If it were as necessarily precise as "rocket science", the trem claw would be attached to immovable posts not wood screws.

I know lots of players who have tightened the screws up until the rear of their bridge sits flush on the guitar body instead of "floating" as originally designed. They claim it significantly increases sustain. Like so much about guitars, it's all about player preference and the percieved benefit of setting your guitar up a certain way.

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"Life is like eating jalapenos. What you do today may burn your arse tomorrow"

And the more you tweak the screws, you risk stripping out the holes.

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That is true, but in 30 years of playing guitar and tweeking screws, and performing all sorts of other mods I have yet to strip out a screw hole.

_________________
"Life is like eating jalapenos. What you do today may burn your arse tomorrow"

BTW, tightening the bridge screws will not allow the bridge to remain flat since the bridge is angled at the screws. That cause undo pressue on the screw holes and has been known to strip out the hole and ruin the body...

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"Epitaph on a blues musician’s tombstone: “I didn’t wake up this morning”" Davy Knowles


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Bridge screws? I've been talking about tightening the trem claw screws to increase the tension on the trem springs which will definately sit the back end of the bridge flush with the guitar body. If the bridge screws came set correctly from the factory there's no need to mess with them. The factory set "float" allows the rear of the trem bridge to set down on the guitar body when you lift up on the tremolo arm.

By all means don't mess with any of the screws if you are worried about overtightening them and stripping the hole. Yes it can happen, but I have never had it happen. It's easy to "stop cranking the screwdriver" when the screw gets tight.

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"Life is like eating jalapenos. What you do today may burn your arse tomorrow"

FYI: Proper bridge setup dictates you hold the bar down or up to locate the baseplate to your liking before adjusting the screws.

There's a lot of difference in tension betweem 2-3, 3-4, or 4-5 tremolo springs. thats why the claw is adjustable.

BTW: Schaller makes and adjustable claw that has a fixed base and moveable claw mechanism that can be adjusted without removing the cover.

_________________
60th Anniversary AD Strat, Deluxe Nashville Tele, Player's P Bass. Mesa/Boogie Mk IV combo, Marshall JCM800, 1960A cab, Genz Benz El Diablo 60, Genz 2x12" cab, too many neat little practice amps and kit projects!

DAM YOU JOELSKI!

That's a neat looking shiny gadget, now I must have one.

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"Life is like eating jalapenos. What you do today may burn your arse tomorrow"