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Post subject: American Special Strat (SSS) inertia block
Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 7:55 am
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Hello,

I bought an American Special Strat (SSS) a few months ago. Does anyone know what the inertia block is made of? Is it alloy in this model? I haven't really looked.

Also, is a Callahan block really worth the $60?

Thanks everyone for the help!

Mike
Strat player for life


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Post subject:
Posted: Thu May 13, 2010 10:49 am
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Location: Magnolia, Texas (just north of Houston)
Hoping someone on here knows what material the AS trem block is made of. To the orginal poster, I just recently bought an AS about a month ago. I know it is the same block as the Highway 1 (I hAve one of those as well). I have not had any issues with either. I did change the string guage to 10's like I have on my HWY 1 and I have great sustain if that is what you are after.

As far as Callahan block, if are having any issues, yes they are worth the price, but I do recommend a higher guage set of strings, it might do the trick and a little easier on the wallet.

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2007 Fender Highway 1
2012 American Deluxe
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2010 Fender Blacktop
1987 Fender Avalon Acoustic
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Post subject:
Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 9:15 am
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To anyone who is curious, here is a follow-up to my original post. First, I contacted Fender customer service. The American Special Strats have steel blocks already. While the Callaham block might be better, I'll be straight up honest that I can't hear it, especially over the drums and bass. So, I'll keep the block that's stock.

As for the sustain issue, I did change to 10's on the Strat. Better sustain and a little more mellow/smooth. Though I still like 9's on the SG... But that's another forum.

Thanks for the help y'all and I hope this info helps someone out in the future.


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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 4:35 pm
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Location: Magnolia, Texas (just north of Houston)
mlamartina wrote:
To anyone who is curious, here is a follow-up to my original post. First, I contacted Fender customer service. The American Special Strats have steel blocks already. While the Callaham block might be better, I'll be straight up honest that I can't hear it, especially over the drums and bass. So, I'll keep the block that's stock.

As for the sustain issue, I did change to 10's on the Strat. Better sustain and a little more mellow/smooth. Though I still like 9's on the SG... But that's another forum.

Thanks for the help y'all and I hope this info helps someone out in the future.


Thanks for the information. I was wondering what material they are made from as well.

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2007 Fender Highway 1
2012 American Deluxe
2015 MIM Dave Murray HHH
2010 Fender Blacktop
1987 Fender Avalon Acoustic
2012 Marshall DSL 15 watt head


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Post subject:
Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 5:26 am
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Quick n easy test for anyone who wants to know about their sustain block..

If a magnet sticks, then it's steel.

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Post subject:
Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 11:51 am
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Quote:
Model Name: American Standard Stratocaster®
Specs...
Copper Infused High Mass 100% Metal Bridge Block


No such info for the Special - so unsure then if it is the same.


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Post subject: Callaham Tremolo Blocks
Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 1:55 pm
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According to the Callaham website, their tremolo blocks are made to the same specs as the original 1950s Strats. They are not made from an alloy but are instead made using heavy cold rolled steel. For example, a MIM Strat's tremolo block weighs 5 ounces as compared to the Callaham which weighs 10 ounces. The main reason that Fender switched from the heavy cold rolled steel to alloy material for their tremolo blocks was to keep their production costs down. Many times, guitar manufacturers will compromise on building materials such as hardware in order to save themselves a buck.
Whenever a tremolo block is made from solid steel rather than a lighter alloy, the guitar will produce greater sustain and tone transfer. Resulting in a clear bell-like sustain and response. It's just plain physics.
I replaced the tremolo block in my MIM Strat with a heavier solid steel one and replaced the bridge saddles with the Graphtech's, and what a difference it makes sustainwise.
Another reason I have much greater sustain is because I also replaced my standard spring claw and screws with a Schaller Trem Claw, which is an adjustable spring claw made from a solid piece of metal with 3 worm gears. It adjusts using an allen wrench through a hole in the back of the rear trem cover. The Trem Claw comes with a little metal scribe that you place in the hole of allen adjustment screw, that is used to locate the hole that needs to be drilled in the tremolo cover. The Trem Claw actually is mounted flat in the tremolo cavity with two srews, rather than the traditional spring claw.
It's also great when it comes to the removal or mounting of the tremolo springs themselves. You just turn the adjustment screw so that the Trem Claw is close to the tremolo block, mount the three springs, then readjust the Trem Claw to the desired location. Another advantage of the Trem Claw is that it allows me to get my vintage style Fender tremolo to actually float like a Floyd Rose, and operate quite smoothly. With the addition of my Fender/Schaller locking tuners and Graphtech Black Tusq XL nut, my guitar actually stays in tune. Even when I am constantly using my whammy bar.


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