Whats the difference between jumbo frets and medium jumbo .

Does it affect the action ( how long ai can set up the strings ) and is the guitar as smooth and fast to play .

Right now my american standard has medium jumbo ..

the highway 1 has jumbo frets .

whats the differenc ein feel .

any one better than the other . ???

.

thx

Better is subjective. You'll get more life out of jumbo frets or more accurately tall frets. But they are uncomfortable for some. Myself I dont like them or medium jumbo's. Both feel like playing a set of step ladders to me. I prefer vintage frets, very ground down. Theres nothing smoother.

Action is not affected at all because it is set from the top of the frets. You rarely touch the fingerboard unless you have bad fretting technique. (really try pressing your high E to hit the fretboard and see how much pressure it takes, if you get there at all). So under normal circumstances action is set from the fret tops because thats what you play off.

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thankx


really help . and yeah i never really notice i wasnt touching the fingerboard .:) but im not a high skilled players and profesisonnal .

But mind if i ask you a question .

If the finger doesnt touch the fingerboard ... then why on some stratocaster ( particuly old one ) the fingerboard is all dirty and look thrash and some other look new .

ive seen 1970s stratocaster with the maple fingerboard that look mint and other that look like that

http://www.ethick.com/assets/images/strat_neck.jpg

i dont want my strat to ended up like that ????

Bad or overly heavy technique a hell of a lot of the time. Also as frets wear down you do start contacting the fretboard with the edges of your fingertips when you bend up or hammer on. It's not that you never absolutely ever touch the board, just not under normal playing circumstances on a guitar with decent frets.
The average set of frets lasts between 15-25 odd years, I read somewhere. I dont think you have too much to worry about. Just avoid grabbing at the strings and using the vice grip of Thor to hold a barre chord.

Honestly try pressing the high E string down to the fretboard, use your fingernail to fret it, or even a capo. Then try playing the note your attempting to fret down to the board. It will be bent quite sharp, you'd certainly hear it.

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I like railroad track frets, the 6100's to be precise. If I play a guitar with smaller frets I lose the good bends because I have little to no grip anymore.

Really Kain, what has caused that? If I may be so bold as to ask, if not please ignore it.

I do tend to have my action set slightly high. I just think it sounds better, I can whack the strings as hard as I like and play slide too.

It's all different strokes for different folks.

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Back in my guitar playing infancy I read an article about George Lynch's setup, Dunlop 6100 frets are his mainstay and I've been hooked since I played em. My AmDel HSS has the stock frets and they're tall enough to deal with my string bending adventures When I say smaller frets I mean like on acoustic guitars. Can't bend a string on one a them to save my life.

Personally , I like the 6105s alot.I have them on my SRV and now I just ordered a 59 thinskin strat with them.I see why others dont like them though.I takes alot lighter touch especially when doing slides.I have 2 guitars with modern C necks and sometimes adjusting between the 2 can be challenging.But the tradeoff is you can have fairly low action and still have no problems making easy bends.

very useful info here, i got a fender telecaster deluxe 72 and i never have problem with it, but i was thinking about buying an america strat.

I must have a Thor grip. Before too long, I'll have to put new frets onto a guitar I bought new about 6 years ago......I've already had them dressed once. Now I'm thinking of going stainless steel frets because of that.

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"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them."-John Wayne

Are there any disadvantages to SS frets?

'Bout the size of it.

I actually can press the e string to the wood at lower positions just with the flesh - if I try hard. So on one of my oldest fingerboards I assumed that was why I had gouges out of the wood in some positions, never mind dirty marks.

However, Forum user Orvilleowner pointed out that in normal playing the string doesn't touch the timber, and further that the gouges and most other damage come from fingernails. I examined my left hand more closely than I'd previously bothered - and he's absolutely right (of course).

It is also a valid comment that this is bad technique. To be fair to me, none of my younger guitars show signs of that wear, even though some of them are pretty old now too. That can only be because my technique (and fingernail care) improved after the beginner phase, without me even realising! Phew...

Cheers - C

Well......I've had estimates, and it's quite a bit more expensive to put stainless steel frets on. Some Luthiers don't like doing it. I've heard it wears out a set of files on one fret job.

I was once quoted $350 for nickel frets and $550 for Stainless. But the Stainless will last longer, and I seem to be destructive on frets.

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"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them."-John Wayne

Same here for fret destruction. I have a hybrid guitar with a Warmoth neck that has Dunlop 6100's on it and the higher frets are notable more worn than the lower frets, even though it's less than 6 years old. I never thought of myself as a violent lead player but the proof is in the buzzing and dead spots

I think everyone has suffered from bad technique early in their guitar playing days.I started out on acoustic , so needless to say I was guilty.The idea is to only use enough pressure to make the note and for it to sound good.I like the taller frets because so little pressure is needed and there is really no fret buzz anywhere along the neck.