Ah so it's worth a trip down to see the place in person then eh mate.

BTW completely agree with you on cheapo pedals, I'm sick of hearing the generic effects that everyone uses. I'm even employing a roadie (Ro-dent) to twiddle knobs whilst I play now. Gregarious of me eh? I'll even share solo's with the roadie.

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That's the problem, there's only a couple companies making pedals in the affordable range anymore. How many people do you see with a board packed full of only Boss pedals. But by the same token I'm never gonna shell out $400 bucks for a boutique pedal. I think DIY is the way to go now, for pedals. they're among the most basic electronics projects, and fairly cheap to make. might be a good agenda for me over next winter. After you get a working understanding f them, you could literally create a unique effect tailored just for you.

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I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet.

Not to distract from the main thrust of this Niki, but I should recommend -- if you haven't played it, that is -- the newer Danelectro Drive pedal. I played it side by side with a Fulltone OCD in a live situation, and my bandmates had trouble discerning any differences at all. Great, great pedal, and all for $38.

Vulkan I'm absolutely inundated with drive pedals. I wouldnt ever disagree with you though that pedal quality has little to do with price. The two worst drive pedals I own are the most expensive. The fuzzface and the MXR. The fuzzface is so useless it's unreal, the MXR is ok as a volume cut for cleaning up the sound. It's just far too noisy as a drive unit. I'm coming close to firebombing the dunlop plant. I'm so unhappy with their recent spate of reissued failiures.
To date theres; the burford britface and mosquito, the monkey, a boss turbo overdrive, a Jen fuzzwah. A really cheap danelectro FAB distortion that has the most squarewave hard edged signal I've ever heard. Also a danelectro Black Paisely which is a distortion/octave down. Both of those sound great but have limited applications.
The Britface was made specificaly to my requirements. It's a fuzz using both germainium and silicon transistors. It goes from that zztop eliminator kind of violin sound to hendrix's strat on fire, squealing like a city boy on a mountain surrounded by a certain gang of hillbillies and no Burt Reynolds in sight. It cost me £60 as opposed to the MXR at £75 The Mosquito is a octave fuzz thats nearly as good but sacrifices really high fuzzed out nonsense for a good solid midrange. It has volume octave fuzz, volume normal fuzz and a tone control for the octave. Everything else comes from guitar volume and pick attack.

We get far too caught up in every nuance of sound, when all anyone ever wants to see is a good tight rocking band.

Still I'm duty bound now to go investigate the new Dano' pedal.

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Paddle faster, I hear banjo music.

It's funny you say that, because my main overdrive pedal is the Way Huge Pork Loin. When the original company was bought out by Dunlop, a new series of pedals were released. The Pork Loin is built around the same concept as the VoodooLab Sparkle Drive: moderate drive infused with the sound of a parallel clean sound. I think it's one of the best pedals I've ever used.



That's precisely how I see it. I used to have a whole pile of pedals; now I'm down to a really simple rig. I run two amps, a Pro Junior and a HRDx, with the little amp cooking and the big one running clean. The Pork Loin and the Dano run into the Deluxe, although never simultaneously. I use them to enhance choruses and soloes, although sometimes I get drunk and just leave them on. The only other boxes I use are a Boss tuner and a Crybaby.



Exactly why I dumped a pile of pedals for a pair of amps I like and a couple of dirt boxes. I'm no inveterate tone-hound -- I like it to sound good, don't get me wrong -- and I'd rather focus on playing great music than achieving mediocrity with great tone.



Go forth and conquer. Cry "Havoc!" and let slip the dogs of war. Let me know how it goes too...

Checkout http://www.nycpedalboards.com for some pretty good ideas.

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-Kc
"Payin' dues."

Kevin where were you with that link 3 days ago grrrrr.

Just kiddin I'll have to build another one to incorporate some of those ideas.
It's no biggie, this thing is just a first run design as you go thing. Theres loads of ideas running around my head now. The next one will be built from racking to further keep the weight down.


Vulkan.
My problem with dunlop is more their Hendrix/MXR and Wah range. The MXR's in particular just aren't doing justice to the 70's pedals. The Hendrix range of pedals has Jani Hendericks stamped all over it. The best thing about their wah's is the casing. That said it's a Vox wah going on the board, simply because I dont care what happens to it.
Way Huge are quite a recent addition to their range aren't they? I was under the impression that Mr Huge/Tripps designs the pedals and dunlop (here to refered to as dumbflop) put them out. I must say I'm very interested in Mr Huge/Tripps Camel Toe pedal.

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I'd a couple different ideas for a pedal board, but what concerned me was the weight.

I ended up buying a Pedaltrain Pro for $115. Has a softbag. Works extremely well. Point is, even though it's tube aluminum and light, after loading all my pedals on it and my powersupply, in the bag it's all just under 50#.

Regarding power supplys, I've heard a lot of good things about those one spots. I initially bought a $30 supply from musicians friend with a daisey chain plug set, but one of my pedals wouldn't make a sound with it and one of the others made extra sounds. Not good ones, either. I knew I'd need something more substantial as I had a number of pedals on my wish list so it came down to a DC Brick or a Voodoo.

After reading every review I could find, plus comparing the two, no question to me I should buy the Voodoo. The other thing about this power supply is it can handle a lot more than you can initially plug into it. I looked at what I needed, looked at the ratings for the outlets, what my pedals would draw and contacted the folks at Voodoo. Was able to buy cables from them that had 2 pedal plugs in parallel fitted to 1 plug for the power supply.

There are 4 oddball power pedals here that use their own wart, (18vDC, 18vAC, etc) so I plug them into the Furman strip, which I've since mounted on the board. I've also since added a Nocturne Brain Seltzer. The powersupply is mounted underneath. Works very well for me.

One other note. On the advice of a friend I tossed the velcro that came with the board and dropped another half a c note on some 3m Dual Lock. Very good move and highly recommended.

Dafreeze, I see you have a Jamman.How do you like it?I just bought one a few weeks ago.My main reason for buying it is for practicing chops.It was cheaper than the boss version and has more options.

I love it and bought it for the same reason. Optional footswitch was worth the $, too.

Regarding OD's, that MXR OD/Boost isn't the least bit noisy as someone above has experienced. Also the other 2, the 808 and BD-2 were bought from and modded by Keeley. Kinda pricey, but excellent. The Blues Driver was a hunerd cheaper and generally speaking I prefer it with my single coils.

I think you're right about the wahs anyway; I've never even considered buying one of the Hendrix pedals. Probably because any stompbox with an artist's name on it is indicative of the fact that the artist himself didn't ever use the unit in question.

I had a Zakk Wylde wah for awhile. I know nothing about him and I despise his music, but the wah sounded good to me. I liked that it had a throaty, mid-rangey sound, different from anything else I tried out that day. The case is solid: cast metal with robust hinges. The mechanism, however, failed me on three occasions. I simply tired of repairing it, especially considering Dunlop advertised it as the toughest, strongest, least breakable wah "ever built."

The Way Huge pedals are really, really cool. They're neither cheap nor easy to find, but those who have them tend to rave a bit. I've played a reissued Aqua $@!& as well as a Fat Sandwich, their proprietary distortion unit. Both are good, but I didn't buy the AP because of my dedication toward a simple rig, and the FS didn't really jive with the music I play. That's where the Pork Loin shines. Both were great sounding units though. If I were looking for a delay pedal I'd pass up the ubiquitous Carbon Copy in favour of the Aqua $@!&.

What's the Camel Toe meant to do?

And another thing. (I'm on a roll, but I do realize it wasn't the Germans who bombed Pearl Harbor).

About half my playing time is plugged straigt into a Blues Jr NOS.

The other half is through that board into 2 DRRI's either switched through the Lehle or stereoed through the Chorus. Point here is no matter how good you are, you can't get a phase sound without a phaser. You can't get a wah sound with out a wah. Etc. I play a number of different guitars with an equal # of different pickups, both single coils and humbuckers. 3 OD's are much better than one, and that clean boost portion of the MXR is perfect when quickly swapping from a 335 to a Tennesee Rose with Hi'Los.

I just discovered th Digitech Hardwire tube overdrive pedal.It cost me 100 bucks and its a true bypass pedal.Has a "classic" and "modified" switch that brings it from a ts808 type pedal to more of a heavier sound.It also has a 2 band eq which makes it more flexible than my ts9.

DaFreeze.

The very kind guy at EffectPowerSupplies.Com informed me of the basics of power requirement. Basicaly he said if the combined current draw of your pedals is over half the MA rating of the supply your going to get noise. So they had this built.
http://www.effectpowersupplies.com/stompbox-8-3000ma-power-supply-with-8-way-daisy-chain-696-p.asp
More than enough for the ten effects and wireless I need to run.

The pedaltrain pro is £289/$436 here, they run at around $300 in the US, where did you get one for $115? That price is worth paying import tax on.

The $300 price is a joke for a bit of ali frame. A friend of a friend is going to flightcase it for me.

Anyways time to go stick the pedals to the board and decide on some kind of latch for the storage compt'.

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