Think I'm going to build one. I seriously cant justify £200+(size I need) for whats basicaly a aliminium case.

Does anyone have any experience of the visual sound 1spot. I dont want to hear recommendations about all other powersupply's. I'd rather use individual adaptors or batteries than pay another extortionate fee for a over supply.

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Niki,I have been using the 1spot for a number of years now with no problems.Its the cheapest one on the market.I use it to power my tuner ,2 od pedals ,eq and delay with no problems.Mine is probably at least 4 years old .Hope this helps.I dont find them excessively noisy either.

Heres what I'm going to power with it.



I need 3ft x 2ft roughly (950mm x 500mm). Just been and bought the timber for it. So far I've spent £11.50. The nearest Pedaltrain do costs £289. The cheapest I've found is a Behringer at £80, it only holds Behringer pedals though. I may even be able to get this thing flightcased cheap.

Anyways I'm off to get the pencil, saw and router out.

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That looks suspiciously like a Danelectro Surf & Turf Compressor. I thought I was the last man alive using one.

You"ll need 3 1spots to power all of that! still cheaper than a voodoo labs power supply (or comparable). I dumped almost $400 into my board before I put the 1st pedal on it. So I'd say "extortionate" was aptly used in that case!

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"I started out with nothing, and still have most of it"

Yeah I love it, it never seems to get extreme. It acts as a great volume cut or a compressor. Theres no fear of over compressing your sound with it. One of the best £20's I've ever spent.

AllThumbs why will I need 3 1spots? I've cut my selection down to 10 units. The fuzzface and vibratrem have gone. I thought the 1spot did 20 effects. Do I need to add all the milliamps up and make sure I'm under the 1700MA limit of the 1spot? I honestly dont know, I only learnt how to wire a plug last week .

The wireless has its own supply.

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Niki , yes you need to add up the ma(current draw) of your pedals.If its over the 1700 ma , you will overload it.In that case you just need to add another 1spot.

There may be 1spots that power 20 effects. The ones i've dealt with will only power 4-6 units effectively (keep in mind that I was linking them thru a TU-2).

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"I started out with nothing, and still have most of it"

Thanks guys.

You learn something new every day eh? Well atleast I do. It must come from being a thickie.

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mr. nik, will you kindly post a pic of whatever you build so i can get an idea of how it's done properly. i built my own from scrap from the shop and it's horrid to look at but it works. like all thumbs, it's powered by a tu-2. i'd really enjoy seeing the finished product and knowing the cost. don't worry, i'm too dumb to make an exact copy of you're original idea. yep, way too dumb. but, very curious. good luck mr. nik.

Mr Nik eh???

Ask and you shall receive I say. I'm not saying this is the right way to do it, as its pretty much a design as you build job. Heres a few shots though.

Ok. So I got myself some 1/8th" hardboard and roughly sketched out (planned) pedal location on it. I added 1" either side of the pedals and cut the hardboard to the size I needed.

Then I took some 4x1" pine. Cut 1,1/4" down the middle. (more on that later). I planed a angle into the edge of the 2,3/4" bit.
Ropey as hell timber for the keener eyed of you out there (thankyou B&Q) now planed & sanded flat.



Then I took that piece of timber glued and pinned it onto the piece of hardboard. Like this (angle at the top)-

You can see where I planned the pedal layout on that bit of hardboard.

Ok you no doubt see that wedge shape off to the lefthand side. Well basically I took the 1,1/4" off cut from the previous piece. Planed a angle onto the width of that, then cut myself two wedge shapes to fill in the sides.


Notice each has a small piece of timber fitted to it. Well that is a throwback to my construction days. Anything with a bit of weight to it is going to want to flex when it moves. So those bits are just single pinned onto the wedge shape. I fixed through the rear of the 2,3/4" timber into that, as well as at the apex of the wedge shape. Now at least if it flexes it will do so at a point where I can deal with it easily, should I need to.

This photo should clarify all that lot a little.



Tomorrow we add strength with 1/4" ply, hand sand some of the raggedy bits along the angle line. Cut the lid/pedal floor, and start painting whilst I wait for the power supply to arrive.

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You can make a exact copy if you like mate, I dont care. It aint like I invented the thing or am making 17 squillion pounds forty three pence a day out of it. I just want to have somewhere to put my pedals and leads.

As far as being dumb goes, my missus would happily argue my greater stupidity against anyone elses. She thinks I make Laurel and Hardy look like Mensa candidates.

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Budglo.

Can you please measure for me how far the PSU adaptor ends extend from your pedals? Metric or Imperial (as long as its fractions not decimals) please.

The top is planned out. About to get hinged (although that may wait till tomorrow cos I've had a few). All I need to do now is drill it for cable.

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Looking good so far Niki. That's what I should have done if I weren't so lazy!!

thanx alot Mr. Nik. it'll be easy for me to use what i have now. mine is flat and i wanted it tilted like yours. i'll use these pics and fix it up right. i was in a hurry when i built mine plus i'm lazy. thanx