Any time!

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You dig?

"dedario" How about letting us know where your Strat with the SHARP screws was made ? I have a feeling I already know but I want to see if I'm correct.

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Isn't it great that occasionally a single engine plane plummets from the sky into the ground like a freaking dart for no apparent reason ?

I used to work in a furniture factory long ago and thats how we used to fix stripped holes too.It worked like a charm.If the hole was huge then we used a dowel.

I'd be happy to. How can I tell? Is this a common problem you've heard about?

Guys, I know this is a simple thing but it's getting complicated. First, I can't get the screw to loosen off the guitar. I'm hesitant to push too hard because I don't want to strip the screw. I'm basically "screwed" in that case right?

Also, I went back to the store and purchased my replacement screws. They actually had the Fender packaged screws so I got them. Just a buck more. But the heads of the screws look smaller than the ones on the guitar! Any advice?

Read the ENTIRE post BEFORE attempting to remove the screws. We'll worry above reinstallation AFTER all the defective/improperly inserted screws are safely removed.

One thing is a MUST and that is to FIRST protect the guitar body/pickguard, use masking tape and cardboard to prevent scratches. Surround the screw you're working on with masking tape.

It will be easier if you can find at least one screw you can remove in the normal fashion with a screwdriver if that is possible you can take a piece of thin cardboard or popsicle stick and gently insert under the pickguard close to the screw hole of the first screw you removed and then gently push it closer to the next stripped screw you intend to extricate. Work slowly as you back out the next screw push the cardboard or tape covered knife/popsicle stick in further or add thicker pieces. Don't push it in to quickly, just until you feel resistance. If you go too fast you'll crack the pickguard. Doing it this way will allow you to work around the pickguard enabling you to access other more difficult stripped screws later on. If you can get the slightest "elevation" of the screw head above the pickguard by using a small thin knife blade (NOT a razor blade) covered with masking tape placed UNDER the pickguard after removing at least one screw normally you may be able to grab it, the stripped screwhead with a pair of small needlenose or other smaller pliers with serrated jaws.

If the screw backs out a bit take the cardboard/tape covered knife or popsicle stick out and push the pickguard flush with the body leaving the screw head sticking above the pickguard then grab the screwhead between the jaws of small pliers or fingertips if possible and turn it COUNTERCLOCKWISE while pulling up steadily as you turn it to the left.

You can also do this by placing something rigid like thin piece of hard plastic or thin wood (tongue depressor/ice cream or popsicle stick) next to the screwhead. You're using the wood/stick both as a block for the "lever" (knife) and to protect the pickguard from indentations. Again it helps if there is a gap between the seat (bottom of screw head and pickguard). As you depress the lever (stiff knife, thin edged butter knife may work or metal nail file) GENTLY try and back the screw out with either a phillips head or a smaller straight screwdriver that fits the slot. You want to get enough of the head to rise above the pickguard to allow you to grab it with pliers. Be careful you want keep a layer or two of the masking tape surrounding the screw head and you do NOT want the pliers to touch the body/pickguard or you might leave a "circle" upon completion of the repair. This works well if the screw has been driven in crooked leaving a gap on one side.

If it doesn't work with screwdrivers then pliers, the small needlenose type or plain small pliers with serrated tip (has grooves) will help. Again you must try and lift the screwhead that's why the tongue depressor/popsicle stick helps. As you turn the head COUNTERCLOCKWISE pull up, your doing this because if the screw threads in the wood are stripped there is no resistence that enables the threads to allow the screw to back out normally. By working slowly and deliberately you WILL be able to accomplish this repair yourself. If this does NOT work the next step is detailed in following paragraph. If it DOES skip to the link to read about filling holes.

You may have to invest in a "screw extractor" they're (cheap) sold at most hardware stores or Sears (Craftsman brand). Bring one of the replacement screws with you as an example of what you're trying to remove and show someone there who knows what they're doing and they will be able to provide the appropiate "extractor". You'll likely need the smallest one and a screwdriver that accepts "bits" if you don't have one get one (borrow one) or you can also use a rechargeable drill. You may still have to "lever" the screwhead above the pickguard again be sure to place something stiff that will prevent damage to the pickguard. You can combine these procedures, use the screw extractor to back the screw out while "levering" (Notice I'm NOT using the term "pry") and after enough of the head is exposed use the pliers to back the screw the rest of the way out again COUNTERCLOCKWISE (turn to the LEFT to EXTRACT).

See the link below for the page with instructions on filling the holes. As for larger stripped screws check my early posts concerning "Made in Korea" Strats. Though that link refers to larger screw diameters the toothpick and wood glue trick works well. You will NOT have to drill holes beside the broken/sheared off screw as I did with my strap button screw.

As a bus/diesel mechanic I've removed broken bolts and screws of all sizes, sometimes I needed a torch and impact gun and they were literally glowing "red hot" like in a cartoon as I held them in my pliers to toss into a metal bucket . I've tried to descibe the procedure in detail if you have any more questions post or message me and we'll work out a way for me to walk you through it. Here's the link:

http://www.fender.com/community/forums/ ... highlight=

It pisses me off that as a new owner you must do this repair (it should have NEVER left the shop never mind the factory like that) but it WILL give you self confidence plus allow you to familiarize yourself with the necessary tools.

As for place of manufacture it'll say on the headstock or you can post the first four letter/digits of the serial number on either the front or back of the headstock (top of the neck where the tuning pegs are located). Good luck and let me know how it goes.

I believe it's an American made Strat.

I can't thank you enough for all this info. It pisses me off too. There are 4 rough screws on the pickguard. I don't know how that's even possible. There are two on the bottom that cause a problem. One especially continues to snag on my clothing when I play sitting down. I've actually torn up my right thigh on a lot of my jeans.

I'm also incredibly nervous about doing this. Let me ask you guys this:

1. Obviously it's a big factory slip up. I got the Strat new from Guitar Center last September. Is there anything in either my Fender warranty or through the store that will cover me to get this thing fixed?

2. Say money's not an issue. Where can I go in LA to have somebody do this for me? Do people generally stay away from big shops like GC and Sam Ash in favor of local joints for repairs?

3. Is it possible to simple smooth the rough edges on these few screws without having to replace them?

4. People keep saying that doing any of this will void the warranty. Is that true? I can't even change a screw? So would Fender have to do it to keep my warranty going?

I have to say, everybody I've encountered on this board has been fantastic. You guys are very generous with your advice. And very patient with a newbie. Many thanks.

You will have to contact Fender Customer Service either by telephone or email under the support banner at the top of the page. I don't want you voiding your warranty.

You can also try Guitar Center.

I wish Brad Traweek the Fender website "moderator" could see this thread as this is exactly what was being discussed on two previous threads that eventually were "locked" permitting no more replies. I wonder what he would suggest ? You could try emailing him as well with a copy of your post explaining your difficulties. Be sure to mention the condition of the screws and it's affect on your hands as well as your attire.

I will tell you from my experience the likely cause of the damaged screw heads are worn or improperly sized driver bits (screwdriver tips) used in the manufacturing process. When used in mass production they can quickly become either worn and/or damaged and SHOULD be changed when that happens (I hope "someone" is listening). One bad "bit" can affect thousands of screws. Then again it could be substandard screws but I seriously doubt that's the case.

I'm in N.J. & it's getting late, time for bed. Once you get a response from Fender or attempt the repair yourself let us know what they said or how well you did. Good luck.

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Isn't it great that occasionally a single engine plane plummets from the sky into the ground like a freaking dart for no apparent reason ?

LOL!

I over tightened a pickguard screw once and created a hole in space time! I had to get NASA to carry out a full setup on that strat afterwards!

Lets keep things light, funky and Fun people.

Enjoy!

Andy

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Pending Greatness

+1.

Cheers - C

If using the toothpick method does it need to be a Fender toothpick?

Yes because Eric Johnson will readily hear the difference.

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You dig?

Would the Fender toothpick have to be Ash? Would it sound ok if it was a 3 piece laminate or should it be a solid ash toothpick?

Seriously, I don't know why Philips headed screws are used so much in manufacturing. The heads have a tendency to strip due to their design and the fact that it is easy to use the wrong size of screwdriver. A Robertson screw, (square hole in the head), is a much more stable design and though it is possible to strip, it is much harder to do. As far as finish goes, it looks just as good as the (imo) inferior Philips head.

My 2 cents!

Peace, Gridlok

I am sure it might have something to do with what has been used since day 1.I also think it would be easier to strip the hole with a square hole head.I doubt these are installed by hand at the factory.My guess is a pneumatic or electric screw gun with the torque adjusted properly.Dont know why ,but the title got me to thinking about an old girlfriend.

For anyone interested to know, I actually called Fender about this. The guy said he's happy to send me replacement screws. Which I accepted. He also said that it is covered under the year warranty and that Sam Ash here in LA is an authorized repair center. The tech is out until next week, so I'm going to talk to him and see if he can just put them in. If it's free, then why not right?