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Post subject: Compound Radius
Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 5:44 am
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Can you guys shed some light on the compound radius for me? I see that the American Deluxe specifications references a 9.5-14" compound radius. What are it's advantages or disadvantages? Does it create a unique situation when setting up?
Thanks in advance for any and all info supplied.


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Post subject: Re: Compound Radius
Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:30 am
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sunburst wrote:
Can you guys shed some light on the compound radius for me? I see that the American Deluxe specifications references a 9.5-14" compound radius. What are it's advantages or disadvantages? Does it create a unique situation when setting up?
Thanks in advance for any and all info supplied.


In case you don't already know, what a compound radius usually means is that the neck/fretboard is more curved towards the nut and is flatter towards the body. While this is a bit subjective to personal taste, many people typically favor a more curved radius for doing chords as (supposedly) it makes it easier and more natural to do bar chords and such where as a flatter radius is favored for doing lead work...especially folks who play "fast". The advantage of a compound radius is that it gives you the best of both worlds...easy chords near the nut and fast leads near the body.

Now this is just my opinion of course but in that regard I really don't think there's any advantage or disadvantage to either...it's simply a matter of personal taste. Clearly there have been a lot of great (even legendary) players who do leads on Strats with a more curved radius and certainly there's a lot of great rhythm players out there who can play a flatter fretboard. Really it all pretty much comes down to what any given individual prefers. The only real disadvantage with a compound radius...in my opinion at least...is that they usually cost a little more, at least if you just buying a neck. I would think the setup might be a little trickier but clearly a lot of people use them so I wouldn't think it's really that big a deal.

As with all things, my suggestion is simply try one...if you like it, great, if not then stick with what feels comfortable to you.

Peace,
Jim


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Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:36 am
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Another consideration in using a compound radius fretboard is in the saddle radius. you can only set up the bridge saddles for one radius. On my Jackson Dinky, which has a 12"-16" compound radius, I have the saddles set up to split the difference at a 14" radius. You have to play with it a little bit to find out what is best for you.


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Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 12:19 pm
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Thanks for the explaination guys. I now understand the concept. It seems that my suspicions concerning the set up were in line with your understanding of it too Jim. I am somewhat confused though about spliting the difference which paisley strat does with his 12-16" radius.
Paisley, wouldn't setting it up like that increase the action height on both E strings in comparison to the other 4 strings?... But as you stated, you have to find what suits you best and you seem to have found what works for you or you wouldn't be doing it. Thanks again.


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Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 12:23 pm
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Hi sunburst: in addition to the above, another way to think about it is this.

On a fingerboard with a set radius along its full length, 9.5" or whatever, that fingerboard is a section out of a cylinder. However, the geometry of the orientation of strings means that they in fact describe a section of a cone, not a cylinder. That means there is a subtle but genuine mismatch between strings and fingerboard.

A "compound" radiused fingerboard is one where the surface approximately or very accurately replicates the surface of a cone as well, so the strings can more precisely match it along the length of the neck.

These are very fine tollerances and in real life for most of us it makes little or no difference. However, for someone who likes a very low action indeed a compound 'board permits the strings to be set that tiny bit lower to the frets before buzz sets in on the upper frets. It can be a tiny but vital difference to a few.

It is in fact not too difficult to make compound radiused fingerboards, especially by modern factory methods. So the fact that most manufacturers don't offer them on most of their guitars indicates that it is at best a minority requirement.

A few folks will swear it makes a crucial difference to the feel of their necks, and they may be right, far as their own playing is concerned. For the rest of us it is not worth getting too worked up about.

Any help?

Cheers - C


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Post subject:
Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:37 pm
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Ceri wrote:
Hi sunburst: in addition to the above, another way to think about it is this.

On a fingerboard with a set radius along its full length, 9.5" or whatever, that fingerboard is a section out of a cylinder. However, the geometry of the orientation of strings means that they in fact describe a section of a cone, not a cylinder. That means there is a subtle but genuine mismatch between strings and fingerboard.

A "compound" radiused fingerboard is one where the surface approximately or very accurately replicates the surface of a cone as well, so the strings can more precisely match it along the length of the neck.

These are very fine tollerances and in real life for most of us it makes little or no difference. However, for someone who likes a very low action indeed a compound 'board permits the strings to be set that tiny bit lower to the frets before buzz sets in on the upper frets. It can be a tiny but vital difference to a few.

It is in fact not too difficult to make compound radiused fingerboards, especially by modern factory methods. So the fact that most manufacturers don't offer them on most of their guitars indicates that it is at best a minority requirement.

A few folks will swear it makes a crucial difference to the feel of their necks, and they may be right, far as their own playing is concerned. For the rest of us it is not worth getting too worked up about.

Any help?

Cheers - C



Hhmmm...ya know I never thought it about it that way before but damn...I think you're right. I'm gonna have to chew on that one for a bit. Doesn't really change much as far as my own guitars go...as you say it's not something that's really worth getting too worked up about for most folks but that's an interesting explanation.

I gotta go think about that one for a bit...

Peace,
Jim


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Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:01 am
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Thanks Ceri, excellent comparative description making it easy to visualize the actual shape. Thanks to all.


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Post subject: Re: Compound Radius
Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:33 am
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I just noticed that, in addition to the AmDlx's 9"<14" neck, Fender also makes a 7.25"<12" neck for the Vintage Hot Rod Series
Might be really interesting to play...


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Post subject: Re: Compound Radius
Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:52 am
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I didn't know that. High tech for the vintage crowd.
It's always weird posting in a very old thread, I don't know why. I feel like I touched the sign that says "do not touch". :D

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Post subject: Re: Compound Radius
Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:09 am
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Nothing is sacred on the forum! Hijack every thread! Hoist the Jolly Roger! :lol:

(Actually, I just wanted to share the info & didn't want to start a new topic since we already have this one.)


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