My MIM Strat is not staying in tune worth a damn!!I have the trem setup with 3 springs and bridge about 1/8th of an inch off the body(floating) I have put graphite in the nut slots. I think my issue is the B and E string tree. When I am playing and do any bends on those two strings I can hear a string binding noise from the tree and I can bend the string back into tune if I bend behind the nut in front of and behind the string tree. I have noticed that the new American Special Strats now have a roller string tree. Should I try a roller tree or take the tree off altogether?Any opinions??

Did you lube the string tree too?If the strings are binding on the tree that could help.Also the number of winds around the string post can affect tuning the fewer the better.Also it helps to stretch the strings after you put them on while tuning them up to pitch.With a standard vibrato especially if it's floating it's better to change the strings one at a time,if not it could be very difficult to get everything set up right again.Do you really need to have it floating?If you only use the arm for dive function and don't pull up at all it would be much better to have it flush.I have 2 MIM Starts both flush and have no tuning or binding problems.You could also try installing the other 2 springs but that would require a fair bit of adjustment.There are also some "nut sauce"lubes that can do a better job than graphite that you could try.Hope this info helps.

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'65 Strat,65 Mustang,65 Jaguar,4 more Strats,3 vintage Vox guitars,5 Vox amps,'69 Bassman with a '68 2-15 Bassman cab,36 guitars total-15asst'd amps total,2 vintage '60s Hammond organs & a myriad of effects-with a few rare vintage ones.

Well, my initial reaction would be that it's probably not the T's themselves. Personally yes, I do use the roller T's on a few of my guitars but not so much because I've ever had any specific problem as much as it's just a simple and inexpensive upgrade. In other words, "I can, so I do". That said I do have 2 Strats right now with the traditional "butterfly" T's and I really have no problems with them at all...in fact the Partscaster I build last year has traditional T's and the tuning on that particular guitar is pretty much rock solid. I would also point out the obvious in that a great many people do certainly have Strats without roller T's and have never had a problem.

If there is in fact a binding noise at the T as you say, the first thing I would do is, as guitslinger suggested, check how you have your strings wrapped on the tuning pegs. I'm not saying that this applies to you specifically but it's rather amazing how many people simply don't know how to properly wrap a tuning peg. If the string is going too high up on the tuning peg, it could certainly cause the string(s) to bind on the Tee. It's also possible that the T could be set too low as well...as far as I know it doesn't happen often but it could happen. It's also possible that T could have a sharp edge on it too (or a burr). As slinger also suggested, stretching those strings is always a good idea on -any- guitar with a trem.

If none of that fixes the problem, it's also worth taking a look at the bridge as well...make sure you don't have too much of a break angle over the saddles and such and make sure that the strings are seated properly in the trem block...if that ball or bullet end isn't seated properly, it could be "slipping" it's way up the block.

Also in regards to tuning stability issues in general, I would ask...have you by chance changed string gauges recently...perhaps gone to heavier gauge strings? If that should be the case, it's also possible that your nut could need a tich of filing as well.

Lastly...while I don't know where you live, if this problem is fairly recent I would point out that it's also "that time of year"...at least in many places here in the US. I live here in Northern Ohio and right now the weather is...well....typical for Ohio in March! LOL!!! Last week we had a couple of days in the 60's and yesterday it snowed. Some days right now we're getting as much as a 20 - 30 degree temperature change within a 24 hour period. As such the tuning on just about all of my guitars (Strat or otherwise) is just a bit wonky...'tis the nature of the beast.

Again here I'm not ruling out adding a roller T...I do use them myself but again it's more of a "just in case" thing and because I can more than due to actual or specific problems. In this case I think I would look for other problems first...adding a roller T shouldn't really hurt anything but if it's not the T that's the actual problem, it's not going to fix it either.

Just my $.02 worth...hope it helps!
Jim

Before replacing the trees, try a little Big Bends' Nut Sauce on them - might do the trick.

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Tuning peg winding and stretching new strings !!

When you install new strings, tune them up close to pitch, and then starting at the end of the fretboard, pull up on the string a good 2 inches, 2-3 times, then more your hand up the fretboard 4 or 5 inches and pull up again, repeat all the way up to the nut. Tune the string to pitch and do this all over again at least one more time.

Some think having a heap of winds on the pegs helps keep them from slipping ( more is better) but that does more damage than good. You don't need much, you need to LOCK the string ends -- this is HUGE !:


http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/stringing.htm

http://www.jazzguitar.be/how_to_string_a_guitar.html



On MIM Strats if you have trouble with the e and B strings tuning, put a couple of washers under the string tree to raise it up about 1/16“-1/18“. The string angle is too sharp (with the tree screwed down onto the headstock surface) and can cause binding in the nut slots. Most Classics and Re-issues have a spacer already.

Tremolo, It's all about SET UP !

BRIDGE SCREWS:
Pull back (up) on the arm and adjust all but the two outer screws to 1/16" (1.6MM) off the plate. Keep it pulled back ( so the plate is touching the body in the back) and tighten the outer two screws so that they are just touching the plate. Now it will just pivot on the outer screws.


Tighten the spring claw screws so that the rear of the bridge plate is only about 1/16" (1.6MM) above the body. You will have to re tune, and then re-tighten the claw screws a few times to get all this balancing act done. It is worth it in the long run believe me.
Being the spring tension is a little greater on the treble side of the block, I have my screws in un-even ( the claw is slanted about 1/8 inch) so there is more spring tension on the treble end. I find the compensation helps.

If you still have problems your could go to 4 springs, but give the above a try for a while. If you use the trem a lot, or like a good vibrato, 4 springs can make it kind of hard to push (stiff) the tremo arm for some.

Two very important things to these Strat animals:

When you tune (because of the unique tremolo), do it evenly, i.e. tune the low E then the high e, then B then A and so on, OR tune the G and D and work outwards so it's a straight, even pull.

LUBE the nut and string tree, even were the strings go over the saddles. use Teflon lube or graphite.

Doing this really won't be that bad and will take you less than 30 min. set up

Keep playing, use the trem some and re-tune a few times, the key is to GET THE BALANCE ! Strings tension ( pull) EQUAL to the springs counter pull. After that, if you find yourself out of tune a little when you play, try pressing the arm down a couple times real good before messing around re-tuning and that can balance things out again and save re-tuning all the time. You should find that it will be back in tune. When you play and use the trem, and after a while find yourself out of tune ( by meter or ear) and keep retuning, you are just chasing the problem back and forth.

Trust me, if everyone had trouble, there wouldn't be a zillion Strats out there.

Be patient it will work