The relief on my Strat neck was a tad under 1mm (.04"). Several weeks ago, I reduced it to about 0.6mm (.025"), which took maybe a quarter turn or so.

I decided to stop here and let it settle for awhile before I do anymore work. I have another guitar that is almost dead straight that I really like. I wanted to get my Strat to around Fender's recommendation (which is about 0.25mm or 0.010"), so I still had a ways to go.

Note I measure this as Fender recommends (capo'ing 1st fret, hold down last fret and measure distance between fret and bottom of string at approx 8th fret).

Yesterday I did another quarter turn, and today I did about a 1/8 turn. It got it down a tad. I feel i barely made a different and am hovering at around 0.02" or 0.5mm.

At this point, the allen wrench is quite difficult to turn. Definitely takes firm pressure to budge. Am I getting to a point where I should just live with the relief or is it safe to keep going? This is a 1996 american standard strat. Is it easy to reach the end of the truss rod limitations? Or is this simply a physical issue to overcome, in terms of nut strength vs resistance from the neck? In the latter case, I suppose I can assist it a bit by applying pressure to help it backbow as I tighten the nut. But I wanted to get some thoughts on this before I go any further.

Thanks for the help! I have had success getting a neck straight with a truss rod on other guitars. This one appears to be a bit more stubborn.

Sight unseen, if I were you, I'd loosen the strings so the neck is no longer under pressure. I'd then tighten the rod some more which now should be relatively easy, deliberately putting what I would presume to be enough of a turn on the rod which would create a reverse warp in the neck once the strings are brought back up to pitch; I'd then bring the strings back up to pitch. Now, you most likely will have to loosen the rod to straighten the neck rather than having to fight it under pressure to tighten it.

Word of warning: If the rod is still really tight with the string pressure removed, I'd bring it to a qualified tech as you don't want to run the risk of stripping the nut and/or snapping the primary rod.

Informational: I don't do the capo thing because that can impede the rod.

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You dig?

Sight unseen, if I were you, I'd loosen the strings so the neck is no longer under pressure. I'd then tighten the rod some more which now should be relatively easy, deliberately putting what I would presume to be enough of a turn on the rod which would create a reverse warp in the neck once the strings are brought back up to pitch; I'd then bring the strings back up to pitch. Now, you most likely will have to loosen the rod to straighten the neck rather than having to fight it under pressure to tighten it.

Word of warning: If the rod is still really tight with the string pressure removed, I'd bring it to a qualified tech as you don't want to run the risk of stripping the nut and/or snapping the primary rod.

Informational: I don't do the capo thing because not only can that impede the rod but I find it somewhat ridiculous to begin with. YMMV.

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You dig?

thanks.
I have been loosening the strings before tightening. I definitely have to put in a bit of muscle to turn it but I always thought that was normal?

if you have to force it then it's not right.

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I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet.

Some time back I invested in a truss rod tool from StewMac. The old saying is, the jobs is 1/2 done with the right tool. The tool gets a good grip on the nut while allowing you a lot more froce down toward the nut to keep it from stripping. I do not know how many truss rod nuts I have seen stripped with a cheap Allen wrench. Personally i have never had to loosen the strings, but that's not to say it will not help. If you can't have the guitar at pitch and adjust the truss rod, there is something wrong. Maybe a guitar tech should give it a check. Just make sure you find one that has good references. I have seen many want-to-be techs who are good at changing strings!

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Xhefri's Guitars
www.xhefriguitars.com

I have seen many who aren't, and it only emphasizes your point all the more.

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I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet.

DON'T FORCE IT BROTHER. I would hate too see it broken, hard to fix. Take it to your local rep.

Which model guitar is it? My Baja tele has a treetrunk thick neck and that truss nut is very hard to turn.
If your setting up something with a thick neck, your going to have to put more force into the truss nut as your acting against more timber.

Still sight unseen its hard to diagnose, time to take it to a tech I think mate.

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No no and no

1996 American Standard Strat. The good news is that up to this point, the truss rod has been working. Every incremental amount has straightened the neck.

I think I overestimated how much I have turned it since I always back it out a bit counter-clockwise before I turn it clockwise. Probably a good half turn to get it from a very large bow to something close to Fender recommended spec.

Is it normal for 90's necks to need a shim/washer to get more available threads or is that more a problem with vintage necks? i cannot find a washer to fit in there at the moment anyway.

I'll leave it as is. I can live with this relief. If/when I ever take it in for a fret level/dress, I will have a tech look at it.