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Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 6:01 am
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Someone really important wrote:
If at first you don't succeed, try try again


No probs mate, you now know how to get a block of wood in there, it's just as easy to get one out of there. Lesson learnt. Looking forward to how you deal with it.

6 point vintage trem sounds like a great idea. Any chance you might let me know about the gold or silver hardware choice?

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Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 8:30 am
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Thanks Kong for sharing this build...I'm watching now... 8)


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Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 2:45 pm
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Impulse7 wrote:
Someone really important wrote:
If at first you don't succeed, try try again


No probs mate, you now know how to get a block of wood in there, it's just as easy to get one out of there. Lesson learnt. Looking forward to how you deal with it.

6 point vintage trem sounds like a great idea. Any chance you might let me know about the gold or silver hardware choice?


Definitely going with chrome. Green and gold is a real nice combo, but I'm just not a gold hardware guy.

I already got some goodies for the body. Maybe I'll be able to post pics later.

I shaped a block to fill the hole and I'm waiting for the glue to cure. I wish I had a band-saw :( . After a bit more sanding (and maybe some filler) the body should be ready for the sanding sealer. By the way I tried Mighty Putty from the late TV pitch-man Billy Mays. The stuff works great, I used it to repair a small area of tear-out.

Before I start the sealing / finishing process, I'm going to mount the bridge and other hardware onto the body. I may have to shift some of the pickguard holes as the standard 11 hole guard does not line up exactly with the one used with the Kahler bridge.

Thanks to all for the encouragement and interest. I'll continue to plug away on this thing...

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Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 7:07 pm
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Yeah...Another fix thread. I love reading these, I learn something everytime.

Kong,

Great job so far. keep it going.

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Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 2:16 pm
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Okay, a little more progress has been made so I thought I would share. I filled in the over-sized trem-hole with a block of wood. The glue has cured so today I decided to drill the holes for the vintage style trem. I also cut the hole for the block and while it is not perfect, it is serviceable.

I also tried to use Ninja's filler process on the back of the guitar and after about 4 passes, it still looks a little rough. This may be as good as I can get it.

I fitted the tremolo bridge and the pick-guard and everything seems to be in order. I had a junk neck laying around and that was how I was able to accurately measure for placing the bridge.

Here are the pics. Comments are welcome as always. I think it may be about ready to begin the finish process. I know that I am going to use sanding sealer. Would anyone recommend grain filler before I do the sanding sealer?

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Posted: Sun May 23, 2010 6:09 pm
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Fantastic Kong!

Looking great!. I'm a little worried about the two bits of wood down in the bridge, but they say a glued piece of wood is stronger than the actual wood so it should be fine. Needless to say what was a flooded dented broken body is now serviceable. If you wired all that stuff together now it would be "A guitar". Finish it up with Sherwood green and it's a restored gem :).

As everyone knows from Ceri's thread, the finishing will take the longest time. still looking forward to the final product, keep us posted :)

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Posted: Mon May 24, 2010 12:32 am
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Impulse7 wrote:
Fantastic Kong!

Looking great!. I'm a little worried about the two bits of wood down in the bridge, but they say a glued piece of wood is stronger than the actual wood so it should be fine. Needless to say what was a flooded dented broken body is now serviceable. If you wired all that stuff together now it would be "A guitar". Finish it up with Sherwood green and it's a restored gem :).

As everyone knows from Ceri's thread, the finishing will take the longest time. still looking forward to the final product, keep us posted :)

+1

Nice job Kong! Looking good!

Andy

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Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 3:10 pm
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Awesome Kong Starting to look good. I couldn't give any advice becasue I wouldn't attempt what you're doing but enjoy watching what you guys do.
Thanks
Danny :D


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Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 4:44 pm
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kong I would suggest grain filling, possibly even with epoxy. It could help you achieve a perfectly smooth surface over which to apply your finish.

it could also protect the filler you have already applied, in case there are solvent issues.

Looks good. i think with care you could do an opaque finish and no one would suspect the repair work underneath.

Nice work. Continued patience is your ally here.

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Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 8:31 pm
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Twelvebar wrote:
kong I would suggest grain filling, possibly even with epoxy. It could help you achieve a perfectly smooth surface over which to apply your finish.

it could also protect the filler you have already applied, in case there are solvent issues.

Looks good. i think with care you could do an opaque finish and no one would suspect the repair work underneath.

Nice work. Continued patience is your ally here.


Can you suggest what product to use as a grain filler. I have zero experience with this. What would be an example of an epoxy filler. I'm at the point where I want to take my time and make it look as good as possible.

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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 2:34 am
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Hi Kong: lookin' good! :D
Kong wrote:
Can you suggest what product to use as a grain filler. I have zero experience with this. What would be an example of an epoxy filler. I'm at the point where I want to take my time and make it look as good as possible.

I'd second what Twelvebar says about using grain filler, and his reasons. (There must be something I've disagreed with Twelvebar about over the time here, but I'm struggling to think what it would be... :lol: )

When he speaks of epoxy, I think he's suggesting using epoxy AS a grain filler. I don't know of an actual epoxy based grain filler as such. Though I always stand to be corrected.

Far as grain fillers in their own right are concerned, you have a choice of oil based or water based. In the end it doesn't really matter which, but personally I'd suggest water based as it is easier to work with and dries quicker. Can't find the brand I use on sale in your part of the world. Instead a quick Google found this:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200449 ... e=05INFROO

That is far more than you need and it is surprisingly expensive. The one I use comes as a powder in a small tub for a sensible price. This is what I use, but it seems to be only available in my country:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=0

So just for options, here's another in your part of the world:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_s ... iller.html

Since you are doing a solid finish and so appearance doesn't matter I'd suggest a dark color filler such as mahogany, simply because it makes it easier for you to see what you're doing as you work. We'll discuss more about that when you're ready - I have some photos of the process that might be useful.

BTW: most hardware stores don't know what grain filler is and will try to sell you wood filler. Different thing entirely: don't be mislead. Grain filler is a product for specilised uses and you will probably have to buy it online from a supplier such as those I've linked to. But try and find it cheaper: those prices are just silly, to my eye!

Good luck - C


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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 10:20 am
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Ceri wrote:

When he speaks of epoxy, I think he's suggesting using epoxy AS a grain filler. I don't know of an actual epoxy based grain filler as such. Though I always stand to be corrected.



Good luck - C


Right on the money. But I wouldn't suggest it unless you have experience grain filling,Ceri is on the money with the rest.

I have used several grain fillers over the years. One thing to keep in mind is water based fillers will dry faster, so you have to work a bit quicker, and generally within smaller areas.

I hope you are a fan of sanding! :wink:


Ceri, i think we disagreed on how easy it is to touch up black paint. :wink:

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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 10:39 am
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Impulse7 wrote:
Kong, fantastic work so far.

Kong wrote:
I'm going to take my time from here on out and try to make it come out as nice as possible. My original attitude was that it was a basket case to begin with and nothing could make it worse. Now I want a strat I can be proud of


There it is! That cross over between: "Pfft who cares it's just a muck about bit of kit" to "I actually want this thing to turn out alright". Welcome to the world of guitar making :).

The best part is, you can ALWAYS make it better (ie look at ceri's work). And you've done a stellar job so far, most of the damage is taken care of, all you've got left to do is drill some holes and screw some things on :) Piece of cake :).

Also Sherwood green + Mint pickgaurd.... FANTASTIC IDEA! Getting me GASing as well. What colour hardware? Silver or Gold? What wood for the neck? rosewood, ebony, maple..... (AAA birds eye maple from warmoth... which is off the charts fantastic btw)

I suppose the answer to some of these questions is gonna be: "Wait and see".

YAY for another build thread :)


My vote is for gold hardware! Rosewood fretboard, no birdseye, but curly/flammed maple neck. Same for the top of the guitar, flammed/curly maple.

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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 12:32 pm
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Twelvebar wrote:
Ceri, i think we disagreed on how easy it is to touch up black paint. :wink:

Well, matter o' fact, a few weeks ago I utterly disagreed with you on your choice of the top three Beatles albums, though I was too polite to mention it at the time.

...OK: to be precise, I favored the same three albums you did - but in a different order. Crucial!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Cheers - C


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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 1:56 pm
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Ceri wrote:
albums you did - but in a different order. Crucial!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Cheers - C


I don't even know who you are anymore!!!! :roll: :roll:

:wink: :wink: :wink:

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