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Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:05 pm
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Twelvebar wrote:
Kong wrote:
Believe me the waiting is killing me too! It might not be quite ready for sanding on day 30. The lacquer still feels slightly soft and it can be indented with a fingernail. There are quite a few small lumps and bumps in the finish which I believe is due to the metallic paint. I hope it polishes up nice and I won't be crushed if it does not come out perfect; it still is a lot better than what it was.


Stick to the program Kong!!!! No matter how tempting, if you can indent it , let it sit, and i would suggest let it sit a week after you think it's hard enough, just to be safe. metallics mean more coats, and thus more evaporation, and slower evaporation.

It will be worth it to suffer through the waiting period, but you will regret it if you don't. Err on the side of caution my friend, you did too awesome a job to risk blowing it, by getting ants in your pants at the very end


Sir, YES SIR!! I'm with the program Mr. Twelvebar! I have no intention of rushing this thing. It is hard to look at it every day. I'll need to install the tuners on the neck this week. Then the only thing left will be sanding/polishing, assembly and setup. I can't wait to try it through my new (used) Valve Jr that I picked up today - my first tube amp. :wink:

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Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 5:42 pm
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Sweet kong, mate of mine has one of those little epis and for the price vs tone it's an absolute steal.

Did ya get the Head/Cab or the Combo?

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Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 4:48 am
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Impulse7 wrote:
Sweet kong, mate of mine has one of those little epis and for the price vs tone it's an absolute steal.

Did ya get the Head/Cab or the Combo?


Got the Head/Cab. The thing is mint and I stole it for $140 :D

I'm loving the sound of it. I've only tried it bare bones so far. I've read a lot of folks like to add and EQ pedal. I'm not sure I need it because I'm so happy with the tone.

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Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 5:23 am
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Kong wrote:
Impulse7 wrote:
Sweet kong, mate of mine has one of those little epis and for the price vs tone it's an absolute steal.

Did ya get the Head/Cab or the Combo?


Got the Head/Cab. The thing is mint and I stole it for $140 :D

I'm loving the sound of it. I've only tried it bare bones so far. I've read a lot of folks like to add and EQ pedal. I'm not sure I need it because I'm so happy with the tone.


Kong, You're gonna LOVE the Valve Junior -- The best small room/studio tube amp money can buy. A great open tube sound with a nice blues tone. For colorization such as reverb and EQ you will need a pedal of some sort. I have mine hooked up to a vintage 2-12 Fender Cab. Sounds Great.

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Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 7:14 pm
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Alright kong,

I'm taking the plunge and refinishing my guitar (and refitting it with a super strat combo of pickups).

Where did you get your paint from, I'm specifically looking for this color

Image

So any name of paint suppliers would be great.

Dan

PS Wedding should be any day now right? best wishes to you and to BoK :)

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Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 8:47 pm
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Impulse7 wrote:
Alright kong,

I'm taking the plunge and refinishing my guitar (and refitting it with a super strat combo of pickups).

Where did you get your paint from, I'm specifically looking for this color

Image

So any name of paint suppliers would be great.

Dan

PS Wedding should be any day now right? best wishes to you and to BoK :)


That car is bad-ass! I used re-ranch for the paint. It looks like they carry mostly historical Fender and Gibson colors.

http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/index.html

Oh yeah, thanks for the well wishes. Getting hitched this Saturday.

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Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 11:45 am
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ORCRiST wrote:
JasonSD wrote:
Is that a screw on the side of the neck in that pic?


Yes.

Ahem:
"To make truss rod set-up and adjustment more convenient, Warmoth "Pro" Construction necks feature the Gotoh side adjustment mechanism. Inserted between the usual truss rod adjustment nut at the heel and the truss rod, this ingenious device uses inclines and wedges to adjust the rod tension. Initial set-up is still accomplished at the traditional butt end but future small adjustments are then conveniently done on the side of the neck."

http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/Str ... thPro.aspx

ORCRiST

P.S. Is it FRICKIN' DONE YET?!?!

Sorry, had to. ;)


Sounds just like the Fender Micro Tilt adjustment on the Deluxe/Custom shop guitars...

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Post subject: OUCH SLIGHT DISASTER
Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 11:41 am
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Okay I ran into some trouble today. I was installing the tuners on the neck. I drilled the holes for the screws and while installing the screws, 2 of the heads broke off :cry: I did not feel I was being that ham-fisted when I was turning the screws.

Not sure what my options are here because the screws are so small. I had used a 1/16 drill bit. My number one goal is to not compound the problem. The problem is with the 2nd hole from the top and the 3rd from the bottom.

Image

Image




HELP!!!

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Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 11:50 am
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Hi Kong!

Ceri's done a thread on how to sort that out!

I'd find it for you but I'm a working at the mo :?

Have a search and see if you can find it

Andy

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Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 11:52 am
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Found it!

http://www.fender.com/community/forums/ ... oken+screw

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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 11:56 am
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Andybighair wrote:


Thanks Andy,

You rock. I was actually able to find it after you told me the author and the subject. Not sure what I'm going to do here but pretty bummed at the moment - brand new neck and all...

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Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 12:04 pm
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Oh boy, this is not good.

Okay, you will need to tools for this job.
1) A drill press.
2) LEFT handed drills.

Set up the press so the neck is held in place and flat, then use a drill close but just at the size of the screw. Set the drill speed on the slowest setting and be sure to know the depth as to avoid drill through.
Now, drill out the screw, go slow here, the wood around the screw is much softer then the metal of the screw, and if you use too much force, the drill will go off to the side of the screw into the softer wood.

If all goes well, you should be able to use the hole with a new screw. if it's a bit loose, don't worry, just place a small drop of wood glue in the hole. these screws don't really hold the tuner in place when the string is on, the Farrel does that, they only hold it in place when you are changing strings.

If the drill slips off, you will need to use a drill that will remove the screw and enlarge the hole, then use maple doweling to make a plug, and redill the hole.

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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 12:06 pm
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I forgot to say why you need left hand drill bits. The screw is right hand threaded, if you use a right hand drill bit, it may grad the screw and screw it down deeper and then right though the front.

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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 12:07 pm
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Kong wrote:
Andybighair wrote:


Thanks Andy,

You rock. I was actually able to find it after you told me the author and the subject. Not sure what I'm going to do here but pretty bummed at the moment - brand new neck and all...

No worries dude,

If your not up for drilling out the broken screws you could do it the Big Hairy way! :D

Use a bit of super glue and the remaining screw head to secure the tuner. You may have to trim the remaining screw shaft down so it sits flush. At the end of the day it will probably work but its a real "Bodge it" way to fix it.

If you have the time, Jeffytune or Ceri's way is the best (and usually always is!) 8)

Andy

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Post subject:
Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 12:10 pm
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One last thing, a tip for you. When ever you screw into hardwood you need to coat the screw threads with wax, bees wax or candle wax will work here, bee's being the your first choice. It will lube the screw as it goes in and will help to avoid broken screws.

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