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Post subject: Setting up my baby part Deux
Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 10:21 pm
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Ok, got my Stewmac gauge, wow what a nice tool that is. It's a bit pricey but very comfortable to work with.

Set up went great! Using both the steps on this site and the tips from the Stratocaster Handbook, almost everything went off without a hitch.

Switched back to Fender Orginal Bullets from Ernie Balls. I wish I put a stop watch to it but the sustain seems to be at least two times what I got out of the EBs. Maybe there is something to that bullet thing...

Bridge floated to 1/8 off the body. Followed the suggestion to loosen all the bridge screws to 1/16th off the plate, turn down the outer two screws to even with the plate and then back them off 1/4 turn. I lubed the counter sinks on the bridge plate also. I don't get nuts with the whammy, but so far I have not had it go out of tune.

The pups were LOW. I don't know if this was from the factory or from some crazy pre sales GC setup. I mean really low. I rased them all as per the recommendations from Fender. No more mud! This undoubtedly had a positive effect on the sustain too, I would think.

The neck was spot on.

Intonation...this was the one bug, but a relatively small one, I think. All the strings except the low E all intonated spot on. The low E shows 2 ticks (on my Line6 Short Board tuner) sharp. The saddle is ALL the way back and no room to move it any more. Any suggestions here?

I have to say it is a wonderful feeling of accomplishment setting up your own guitar in what appears to be a succesful way.

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Post subject: Re: Setting up my baby part Deux
Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 10:31 pm
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markara wrote:
The pups were LOW. I don't know if this was from the factory or from some crazy pre sales GC setup. I mean really low. I rased them all as per the recommendations from Fender. No more mud! This undoubtedly had a positive effect on the sustain too, I would think.


I would have guessed that raising the pickups would have decreased sustain as the polepieces would be exerting a stronger magnetic pull on the strings as they vibrated. Shows you what I know! As long as it sounds good/better to you then the proof is in the pudding. ;)

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Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 10:40 pm
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That makes sense. I didn't think of that. I did not raise them above specs, but they were really low. Maybe I just think I have more sustain because I did the setup 8)

Anyhow, I am loving the sound.

Any ideas on the intonnation issue with the low E string or am I being too nit pickey. It is driving me nuts that all the other strings are spot on.

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Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 4:22 am
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Take the spring from the rear of the saddle on the lowE. That should allow enough room for the saddle to move back.

If that doesnt work try a thicker Low E string.

If you cant get on with that grind the back edge off the saddle. (this really is a last resort)

Whats happened is the bass side of the trem is forward of its center line. Common on 2 point trems, particularly deluxes. Fender should ditch the 2 point system.

Can you show us a picture of the trem, face on?

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Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 7:31 am
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I have the same thing with my low E not being spot on. It's very very close, but could probably use another half to full turn on the adjustment. I think I'm gonna try taking the spring off (or maybe just cutting it in half). Also, if you set the bridge flush, it gives you a little more adjustment to work with because it moves all the saddles a little further away from the nut.

Also, watch your pickup height. the Fender Specks are only a recommendation, and I have found that for my guitar (even using 9's) it pulls the strings a little sharp (mainly on the low E) if I play high up on the neck (which also effects intonation). I found that adjusting the base side to 1/8th inch and the treble side to 3/32nd inch is a better adjustment. The neck pickup is the main culprit because it the strings are easier to pull at the neck pickup than they are at the bridge pickup.

You can check this by hooking your tuner up and playing notes at the 12th fret and higher, and watching your tuner. Switch to different pickups with the selector switch and see if the tuner changes. If it does, you know that the strings are being effected by the magnets. Once you get your neck pickup adjusted so that it no longer effects the strings, you can adjust the other 2 pickups to match that one.

Also, tuners can be a little funny some times when adjusting the intonation. use the tuner AND your ears.


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Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 7:54 am
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Thanks for the feedback guys. Removing the spring should work. I am assuming that the spring is not really "needed"?

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Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 12:23 pm
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The spring keeps the screw from moving to easily.


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Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 1:26 pm
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atolleter wrote:
The spring keeps the screw from moving to easily.


that is what I thought..so.. next string change I think I am gonna make the spring shorter because the string is almost intonnated but the spring is fully compressed and won't allow more movement. I bet that I can take 1/4 or so of the spring off and that will work fine.

thanks for all the ideas and assistance!

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Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 1:36 pm
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Yes, better have a bit of spring than no spring at all.


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Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 1:38 pm
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Yes, better have a bit of spring than no spring at all.


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Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 3:14 pm
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I think the only thing the springs do is keep the saddles in place when the strings are removed. I removed all my springs and that is the only thing I noticed, so I just have to be a little more careful when doing a string change.

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Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 10:57 pm
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Just to let everyone know...

I did a string change today and got out my wire cutters and cut the low E spring about in half.

After restringing and stretching, I was able to properly intonate the string and not have it stuck sharp! Thanks for all the assitance.

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