I have a 2009 MIM Standard Standard Strat. I was wondering if I could replace the little M shaped string tree it came with with one like comes on the American Standard?

Has this one:
http://www.fender.com/products/search.p ... 0994910000

Want to put on this one:
http://www.fender.com/products/search.p ... 0994911000

It seems like the last one would have less stress on the string and lead to better tone? or at least longer string life?

I have broken 3 high E strings in 5 string changes right at the string string during stretching. I am also keenly aware that may be cockpit error, but I also think the other string tree seems to be a better option.
Thoughts

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2012 American Standard Strat Charcoal Froast
2009 Standard Strat Sunburst Brown
Blues Junior Tweed NOS
2007 Line6 Spider Jam

I have a MIA Standard with the one you want to put on,its made of cast steel.I also have a SRV strat with the one you want to take of ,which is made of stamped steel.Is one better than the other?Cant say for sure.The stamped one is the vintage version and to be honest ,I have never had problems with either.The modern one might be better if you are a heavy trem user due to the friction.

The elevated tree of american standards and deluxes is a pretty useless contraption in my book. The whole idea of the string tree is to exsert downwards pressure on the E&B strings behind the nut. Something the standard/deluxe tree doesnt do enough of.

Just try raising your tree a little. A couple of turns of the screwdriver, nothing major.

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No no and no

I have three different string trees types on my three strats. I don't use the trem so i did not find any difference, they all apply the pressure behind the nut.

You can pick which ever works fro you as far the aesthetics. If you use the trem and your guitar has tuning problems try to set it up again and apply some "lubricants" to the points where the string touches do decrease the friction.

I bet if you ask Eric Johnson he would say that 50's style string tree resonates the most and lets the notes breathe through the guitar.

[joking here]

This is not a direct replacement as the screw holes are in different locations,you could install them but if installed in the original screw holes not enough or too much tension would be applied.

i, in my humble opinion, say if it isn't broke, don't fix it

the "m-tree" performs its function quite well on my strat and have not had any problems with it.

in fact last night (i play with a local blues band), a friend came in with his new American special with the bigger headstock and i noticed the two "t-trees" and immediately felt that it added nothing to it

the only thing i see it adds is down-force keeping the string firmly in place but we already do that with our fingers

I guess I'm the odd ball here (gee...go figure), personally I like the roller T's. I've got them on my '96 MIM, my old Kramer and I just put them on my '85 MIJ as well. Yes...you do have to make sure that the height is correct and matches your existing t's so that you'll have the correct break angle at the nut. If I remember correctly I had to file the bottom of the roller T's I put on my MIM because they did sit a bit too high. You'll also want to make sure the string spacing is correct too. Otherwise, I love the roller T's...it's certainly possible that it could just be my imagination but I do think they made a bit of an improvement in regards to tuning stability.

Obviously this is just my own personal and ever so humble opinion but personally I say go for it...it's one of the easiest and most inexpensive upgrades you can do on a Strat. If nothing else, as long as you use the same size screw, it's not like this is irreversible...if you don't like them you can always change them back .

Peace,
Jim

Thanks for all the input.

I was thinking of changing the tree not because it doens't work, but because I have broken a bunch of E strings during stretching and they all broke right on the edge of the vintage string tree.

I will keep messing with it.

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http://www.facebook.com/UCtheband
2012 American Standard Strat Charcoal Froast
2009 Standard Strat Sunburst Brown
Blues Junior Tweed NOS
2007 Line6 Spider Jam

The American Standard string tree needs two holes, if I'm not mistaken.
One hole is for the screw, the other is a much smaller positioning hole for a small pin on the bottom of the tree. If you drill that second hole, it's not so irreversible .... depending on how well you can make little woodworking coverups.

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My other guitar is a Strat.

Graphtech makes a graphite string tree - reduces breakage and string binding. I would NOT use graphite saddles - they muddy up the tone but the graphite tree doesn't seem to affect the tone at all.

That is correct. I just did the reverse mod on my highway one last night. Not due to tone or anything though. Just vanity, I like the look of the older tree

Obviously, if you're a trem user or a big string bender then any string tree is a potential point of friction that stops the string returning to normal pitch. I do think the roller style is less of a culprit than the butterfly type, but it's marginal. As a tip, I recommend you lubricate the underside of any string tree. I use lip salve (a Fender recommendation) or vaseline. Trust me it makes a big difference. I'm sure it could help your string breakage problems too.

Tonally, it will make no difference at all. The playing and sounding length of the guitar string is defined at each end by the nut and the saddle. Anything in contact with the string behind these points is irrelevant.

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Fender Highway & Classic 60s Strats, Fender Toronado, Telecaster, Gretsch Projet, Charvel 3, PRS SE Soapbar II & Custom 24, Burns Batwing and many others!