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Post subject: Input Audio Jack in custom cabinet
Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:21 pm
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I know that this is not the right forum for this, but maybe someone can point me in the right direction. I'm trying to install an audio 1/4" jack in a custom 1x12 cabinet I made for a new tube amp head I bought. I'm not really sure on how to install it... I could buy a input plate from ebay, but I think if I use steel it would short the input... also, I bought a closed jack, but I'm curious if I should've bought an open one... can someone point me in the right direction? Perhaps instructions online or here in the board? Thank you.

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Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:56 pm
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A Steel plate should not short out the input. I've always used open jacks but I see no problem with a closed one. I've used a router to remove wood on the inside of the cabinet to a thickness that allows the jack to tighten up and did not used a plate. Good Luck.

Are you planning on porting the Cabinet or insulating it?


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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 8:41 am
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I was planning on having the back 3/4 covered, just because I don't want to mess with an enclosed cab. I still don't know if I will insulate it... I thought of maybe using egg cartons. I'm trying to see for how little money I can make an ok sounding 1x12 cab. Thanks on the tip for the input jack... I'm pretty sure I will use a steel mount, I think the guy at Radio Shack was trying to scare me into buying an aluminum plate. Any suggestions on the insulation?

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2007 Fender Stratocaster Roadhouse - Olympic White
2005 Ibanez GRX20Z - Jewel Blue
Fender Frontman 65R Amp
Fender Frontman 15w
Digitech RP50, RP80

"If the house is rockin', don't bother knockin'... come on in."

-Stevie Ray Vaughn


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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:16 am
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if your going to have a open back then insulation isn't really needed. But most if not all cabinets are closed. Combo amps are open for ventilation for the amp. If you still think about leaving it open I would postion the back in the center with a gap on each end. If you close it you can get insulation from a fabric shop like holofil and fill it entirely. One other suggestion is that you use crimp on connectors for the speaker so you can easily reverse them to get the speaker in phase. I would also add a second jack so you can run another cabinet in the future, wire it parallel through the speaker. I would also use metal corner protecters. you'd be surprised how fast it can get beat up and don't forget a handle. Beware sometimes trying to go as cheap as you can, ends up costing you more in the end.

Good Luck


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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:23 am
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If you want something that will last a while:

Drill a hole about an inch in diameter with a hole saw. Use a plate big enough to mount a jack on it. A cheap guitar neck plate is perfect for the job.

Instead of using huge neck size screws that go into the neck of the guitar use grub screws and drill pilot holes for them.

For the speaker cable I like those flat right angled 1/4" jacks instead of the ones that stick out like a guitar cable. That way if someone kicks it from the back or it goes up against a wall it won't break.


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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 3:12 pm
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Thanks for the suggestions, idahored. I was planning on adding a second jack, though I wasn't sure about the impedance... say, if I have a two 1x12s hooked up like that, 8 ohms each, would it be the same as two speakers in series? So should I plug it into an 16 ohm head? Or it would still be just like a single 8 ohm speaker... not to mention, would wiring them in series, would that mean basically soldering two input jacks to the speaker? I'm using a local music shop to order metal corners, grill cloth, rubber feet, handles, and orange (or blonde) tolex. Shockwarrior, I like the idea about the angled cable... I'll make sure to do that. I'd rather not test my woodworking skills against a wall. Any suggestions on the extension jack?

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2007 Fender Stratocaster Roadhouse - Olympic White
2005 Ibanez GRX20Z - Jewel Blue
Fender Frontman 65R Amp
Fender Frontman 15w
Digitech RP50, RP80

"If the house is rockin', don't bother knockin'... come on in."

-Stevie Ray Vaughn


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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 3:33 pm
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Hey Roadhouse,
Wiring in series doubles the ohm's and the ext cab. would have to plugged in to complete the series, Amp pos. goes to pos of first speaker then from neg of 1st speaker to pos of 2nd speaker then neg of 2nd speaker to neg of amp. wiring in parallel would not doubles the ohm's Amp pos and neg go to speaker pos and neg then to output jack pos and neg. Cabinets wired in series usually don't have an output jack And yes it would be two jacks hooked up to the speaker and it would not matter which one is plugged into. Good Luck


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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 3:46 pm
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So could I have two wires soldered to the same input terminal (say, +) with one of them going to the speaker, one to an output jack + terminal, with the same in the - terminal? That would be analogous to a 2x12 with parallel wiring, wouldn't it? Then the ohm would be halved, so two 8 ohm speakers would produce 4 ohms of resistance. I think that might be the way to go for me, if that indeed works.

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2005 Ibanez GRX20Z - Jewel Blue
Fender Frontman 65R Amp
Fender Frontman 15w
Digitech RP50, RP80

"If the house is rockin', don't bother knockin'... come on in."

-Stevie Ray Vaughn


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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 6:19 pm
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Roadhouse check out the link below lot's of useful info for your project. 8)


http://colomar.com/Shavano/construction.html


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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 8:11 pm
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Check out these switchcraft jacks.

1/4" JACKS Number 4 would suit your needs
http://www.switchcraft.com/products/jack-85.html

1/4" FLAT PLUGS Number 4 here as well
http://www.switchcraft.com/products/jack-137.html


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