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Post subject: High E popping out of nut
Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 5:32 pm
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Since changing from 9s to 10s the high E occasionally pops out of the nut when playing or pulling the plectrum out from the fret/string clamp on my MIM 60s Player Strat. Should I file that nut slot wider or deeper (or both) to remedy the problem? Details on the process gratefully accepted.


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Post subject: Re: High E popping out of nut
Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 5:49 pm
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Kuroyume wrote:
Since changing from 9s to 10s the high E occasionally pops out of the nut when playing or pulling the plectrum out from the fret/string clamp on my MIM 60s Player Strat. Should I file that nut slot wider or deeper (or both) to remedy the problem? Details on the process gratefully accepted.


You just don't start sawing away!

First, we need to see some detailed pictures to evaluate what exactly is or isn't going on there.

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Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 6:00 pm
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Darn. And I had the hacksaw all ready to go. ;)

I'll get some pics up tomorrow.

Thanks!


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Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 6:04 pm
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Likely that your string tree isnt screwed down enough and isnt creating enough downforce at the rear of the nut to keep the string in place in the slot.

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Last edited by nikininja on Thu Feb 18, 2010 6:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 6:19 pm
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A 10 is normally fine without widening much. However if the nut slot has already been lowered for a low action then it may fret out on the first fret.

Normally the string needs about 0.05mm or 0.020" clearance. You will need a feeler gauge to measure this.

Either the nut can be shimmed to raise it higher and the nut slot go deeper or the nut will need to be replaced.

It is a lot of fine detail work and you will need a bunch or tools to do either job.
So I suggest you contact a Fender repair or Luthier.


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Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 10:42 pm
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nikininja wrote:
Likely that your string tree isnt screwed down enough and isnt creating enough downforce at the rear of the nut to keep the string in place in the slot.


I agree with this. Is there a spacer under the string tree?

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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 2:57 am
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Kuroyume wrote:
Darn. And I had the hacksaw all ready to go. ;)

I'll get some pics up tomorrow.

Thanks!



No, no, no! This is a job for POWER TOOLS! At a minimum... a reciprocating saw! :wink:


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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:46 am
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Use a hammer and if that doesn't work, use a bigger hammer!

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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 6:04 am
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nikininja wrote:
Likely that your string tree isnt screwed down enough and isnt creating enough downforce at the rear of the nut to keep the string in place in the slot.


No. Already checked the string tree and it is as tight as it should be and no spacer. The string plays well enough to consider it properly angled at the nut - no buzzing or anything. It just seems that the 0.010 gauge isn't sitting deep enough in the slot so that certain times it pops out (from bending mainly).


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Post subject: Re: High E popping out of nut
Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 9:04 am
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Kuroyume wrote:
Since changing from 9s to 10s the high E occasionally pops out of the nut when playing or pulling the plectrum out from the fret/string clamp on my MIM 60s Player Strat. Should I file that nut slot wider or deeper (or both) to remedy the problem? Details on the process gratefully accepted.

Hello!

I have had this problem. To solve it I, rather controversially notched a blunt stanley blade and used it to *lightly* deepen the nut. It was a bone nut and only took a couple of passes before I dropped the string back in. Its been fine ever since. Of course for one tiny adjustment I probably should of taken it down to the local tech and blagged him to do it!

Also, I like to reserve the use of power tools for truss rod adjustments!

Hope this helps

Enjoy!

Andy

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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 9:14 am
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What I'm seeing is that if I apply a bit of pressure with a finger on the head side of the nut then the string is seating better in the slot. So it may be solvable by lowering the tree string or adding another. I'd rather lower the string tree but I don't know what can be used as a shorter post than the one currently installed.

Moving the string tree closer to the nut would probably do exactly the same thing without changing the post but then I'll have an unsightly screw hole where it used to reside.


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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 9:29 am
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Kuroyume wrote:
What I'm seeing is that if I apply a bit of pressure with a finger on the head side of the nut then the string is seating better in the slot. So it may be solvable by lowering the tree string or adding another. I'd rather lower the string tree but I don't know what can be used as a shorter post than the one currently installed.

Moving the string tree closer to the nut would probably do exactly the same thing without changing the post but then I'll have an unsightly screw hole where it used to reside.


And of course, you're treating a symptom and not a cause this way. Why don't you simply take it to a competent tech who, in about 10 seconds can solve the problem?

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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:00 am
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Martian wrote:
And of course, you're treating a symptom and not a cause this way. Why don't you simply take it to a competent tech who, in about 10 seconds can solve the problem?


After moving the string tree forward about 1/2", the high E settled into the nut just like the others. Why do I want to travel (at least) 45 miles (each way!) and pay probably $50 or more for something that took 10 minutes to fix once and for all. The cause was that the string tree wasn't close enough to add proper pressure and angle so that the string was fully seated in the nut. Solved.


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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:25 am
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Kuroyume wrote:
Martian wrote:
After moving the string tree forward about 1/2", the high E settled into the nut just like the others. Why do I want to travel (at least) 45 miles (each way!) and pay probably $50 or more for something that took 10 minutes to fix once and for all. The cause was that the string tree wasn't close enough to add proper pressure and angle so that the string was fully seated in the nut. Solved.


If the guitar was designed with the string tree where it originally was and you moved it, the nut is the cause. Now, you may run into binding problems because the pitch off that string and now, the B is too steep. Solved?

Of note is the fact that a competent tech is also paid for his or her knowledge on how to appropriately correct various causes where the time spent on the corrective action is irrelevant. FWIW, I doubt very strongly you would have been charged to have that nut slot re-angled.

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Last edited by Martian on Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:39 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:35 am
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You want at least 5 degrees off the back of the nut for the high E.
If that don't work then look at the nut.

Photos would be good.


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