+1 on the above comments.

Babbie: I have a Classic 50, and its a great guitar.

If your guitar is new, then put new strings on it. Stock strings are not that great. Sometimes the wound strings loosen around the core string, and that will cause wierd tuning. Try a set of Nickel DiAddario's or whatever your favorite string is. But I always put new strings on a guitar the first thing I do when I get a new gutiar home.

Also, check to see if the saddles are snug and adjusted on the E string. Sometimes the inner adjustment screw will loosen and vibrate to get the 'chorus; sound.

To flatten the bridge, just screw down the trem claw.

To adjust the pups, I usually use the 'Nickel' method to start with, then adjust to get the right sound. The bridge pup, 1 Nickel height on low E, and 1 Nickel + 1 Dime on High E; The Middle pup 2 N on low E and 2N +1D on High E; The Bridge pup 3N on Low E and 3N + 1D on High E.

The truss rod adjustment is actually on the Heel of the neck. You have to remove the neck (not the pickguard) to make the adjustment. To check the neck, put a capo on the first fret, then push down on the last fret. You want about a 1-2 business card thickness gap on the low E string in the middle of the neck ~10 fret. To take the neck off, loosen the strings, then use painter's tape to tape the strings to the neck around the 12th fret. Remove neck screws slowly (i.e. loosen each screw about 1/4 - 1/2 turn until the wood tension is off the neck). Turn the truss rod nut clock wise to tighten (make neck bend TOWARD the strings more). Turn the truss rod nut counter clock wise to loosen (make neck arch AWAY from the strings).

Hope this helps.

We wish that would be true, here is hoping for a perfect world someday.

It is a pity to replace the whole guitar if the nut needed a couple of passes with the nut file, sometimes that is all it takes.
 

I have bought several new Fender guitars that just needed a new set of strings and a complete setup. Sounds like a NO ISSUES Fender guitar to me.

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I didn't Lose my mind, I traded it for this guitar.

I just mentioned in another thread my last one (American Standard) had an electronics problem, nut problem and needed a truss rod adjustment (setup).

Still happy though - it makes sound

Edit:

Mine didn't need new strings.

Hey Shock,
Speaking about the angle off the back of the nut, it seems like my low E string is actually touching the neck on its way down to the tuning peg. That tiny piece of neck just prior to the nut. I can't measure the angle and it's wrapped 3 times. Maybe one wrap too many. You said you use "Fast Fret" on your strings. Will that help lube the nut too (yeah, it pings)?

That sounds a problem. Any additional contact with other strings or frets or other parts of the body will either cause buzzing or muting/deadening of the string so yeah you want to fix that. If you unwind it with tension on you might be able to use pliers to pull through a 1/3" of string or so at the post hole and then rewind it. Or just get a few sets or spares and restring.

It is an art form putting strings on well. I recommend that above technique I suggested of string locking. Watch some videos on youtube and watch peoples technique.



Fast Fret is only really good for rubbing on the strings due to the applicator. I'd grab one anyway they last for ever and you can recharge them if they dry out with your white mineral oil. Not that you may ever need to.

It's the white mineral oil (also packaged as sewing machine oil, baby oil) is a light transparent oil/lubricant that is what you want a tiny drip of in the nut slots. It is pretty easy to find, I think baby oil has a perfume in it. You can find it at the hardware store anyway.

I have heard of people using baby oil on their strings before and after using their guitar. I have always used Fast Fret especially after I replace the strings as it prevents moisture being absorbed and rust. It goes for about $5 or so on eBay.

With Fast Fret I use a strip of thick card cut to just wider than my fretboard about a foot long. I place it in between the strings and rub the Fast Fret up and down while holding the strings. I then wipe away the excess with a rag and move the card down and to the bridge end of town.

Any oil attracts dirt. What that means is oil captures the dirt and won't release it. It is important to remember that. So I want the oil on the strings and not transferred to the fretboard. If the strings do get dirty I'll wipe down with denatured alcohol on a clean rag. Getting it under the strings where the dirt builds up. Then Fast Fret it. You can liven strings up like this.

For the fretboard if maple I'll just clean with wrung out soft cloth. Bit of rubbing if its dirty.

If rosewood or ebony I'll use the smallest amount of lemon oil and worn soft bristled toothbrush to clean (rosewood especially is somewhat porous).
I wipe it clean thoroughly and use Fender Fretboard Conditioner.

If the fretboard is looking a bit dry and not dirty I just use the conditioner.
6 monthly on a string change and setup check is when you should do it.
The only other time I would clean the fretboard really well is if the strings kept getting dirty because of it.

That's my 5 step beauty regime with strings and fretboards. Some people will think I'm wrong and say this and that. I been doing it for a long time so each to their own.

Lastly (phew) if the string gauges have been changed upwards from 9s or what ever the nut was originally made for. You may need to get it looked at by a luthier. Lubricating it is really just a way to find out where the problem is and a quick fix for small problems. Its not advisable as a fix for an improperly sized nut. If the slots are too tight this ends up happening.