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Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 12:50 pm
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Briguy

Unfortunately I'm in the UK. I'd have done it pro bono gratis. I normally wouldnt know of anyone in any specific area that I'd trust to do the work. Luckily in this instance we have forum member CA Feathers in Vacaville California, someone who I trust and got to for advice on various guitar repair subjects.

I'd trust him with anything I own, he's knowledgeable, kind, and a generally well mannered jolly nice chap.

I'll email him and point him to this thread.

One thing the guy who previously worked on the nut may have left the slots high expecting the guitar to have a re-fret soon.

If Chet is too busy at the moment you can email me at
nikininja@ntlworld.com

I'll forward your mail onto him. Sorry I wont give his email address out without his permission.

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Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 1:22 pm
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Thanks for bringing this to my attention Niki. My email is open to the public too. It's CAFeathers@gmail.com


A few years ago I had a guitar that I replaced the bridge on, had a fret job done, replaced the nut, and changed the tuners.

It would not intonate, I tried everything I could think of and spent months trying to figure it out. Finally I took it to a very reputable guitar tech who spent several days going over everything I had done.
This is what we ended up doing.

Tune the guitar to Standard tuning. Then play the string open (in this case your G) and then fretted at the 5th fret (in your case C). Now adjust the saddle as you normally would to intonate to this note.
I had to do this for each string intonating at the fretted 5th.

Give this a try and let us know.

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Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 1:28 pm
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Hey Niki and Chet,

Thanks again for the help!

Chet, just to clarify: I'm adjusting the saddle so that the C at the 5th fret is in tune while the open G is also in tune? If so should I ignore the intonation of the 12th fret?

Thanks,

Brian


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Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 1:32 pm
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briguy91502 wrote:
Hey Niki and Chet,

Thanks again for the help!

Chet, just to clarify: I'm adjusting the saddle so that the C at the 5th fret is in tune while the open G is also in tune? If so should I ignore the intonation of the 12th fret?

Thanks,

Brian


Yes, adjust your intonation so the the open G and fretted C are both spot on. Ignore the 12th fret intonation.

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Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 1:34 pm
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Thanks Chet!

I'll try this tonight and report back either late tonight or tomorrow.

Brian


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Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 1:37 pm
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Excellent!

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Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 1:39 pm
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Interesting Chet. I'm wanting to see if that works for the OP. Always something new to learn on this forum!! :wink:



Oh! Welcome to the forum briguy!! :)


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Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 1:42 pm
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fhopkins wrote:
Interesting Chet. I'm wanting to see if that works for the OP. Always something new to learn on this forum!! :wink:



Oh! Welcome to the forum briguy!! :)


Like I said we did all 6 strings this way.

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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 5:49 pm
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Hey Chet,

I tried what you suggested. It completely fixed the issue I have on the lower frets but created the same issue in the 12-15 area. I tried it on all the other strings and was able to find a balance between the 5th fret's intonation and the 12. But the G-string still seems to be either/or.

I'm curious as to why you and Niki don't think it's an issue that can be solved by the addition of the second string tree? And what is the purpose of the additional one on new american made strats to begin with, if not to help with intonation?

Thanks again for all the help and time on this!

Brian


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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:10 pm
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Briguy

The problem sounds to me like it is caused by incorrectly cut string trees. Their likely too high and poorly angled. The height issue throws all that low end intonation out. A 2nd string tree will aid the dull/muted/squarewave sounding G somewhat. But every open G on a 25.5" scale length guitar sounds like that to me. Unless you go down to a .013" or up to a .022".

The real solution is to get the nut slots dressed properly. I hate to say this (especialy without meeting the person in question or playing the guitar) but it sounds to me like the tech was a chancer.

Are you hearing low fret intonation problems on other guitars. If so Earvana offer the cheapest, and nearly the best solution to the problem. (my designs better but I need your guitar to measure it and it costs substantially more. Also you've got more chance of me marrying the queen than getting a quick turnaround. Hows that for a sales pitch).

Click this for the Earvana website


I tried em out last year and was utterly enamoured. Their a bit too generic in their compensation but provide a decent, cheap, mass produced nut that works well. Strangely their offsets match up quite nicely to my 3saddle tele nut design. Theres little difference between the offsets size.

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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:34 pm
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Let me ask you a few questions here.

1) When was the last time you changed strings?

2) Did you have the same issue with the last set?

3) Are you using the same brand and gauge of strings?

4) Is the string in question sharp or flat when intonating at the 12th fret?

5) Could there be a burr in the saddle for that string that it is catching on?

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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:39 pm
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briguy91502 wrote:
And what is the purpose of the additional one on new american made strats to begin with, if not to help with intonation?


I thought the purpose of the string trees was to stop the string from 1) "sitaring" at the nut, or 2) popping out of the nut slot.

A bad bridge saddle can cause "sitaring" too.

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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:49 pm
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Hey Chet,

1) I change strings every 2-4 weeks. This most current set has been on for 2 weeks.

2) I've had the same issue for years.

3) I've used standard 10's and 11's sets as well was hybrids in and around the same guage. I've used Ernie Balls, Fenders, DRs, and D'Addarios. All have the same issue.

4) Depends on where I move the saddle. If you mean right now, then it is sharp at the 12th fret. When I intonate at the 12th fret, the lower frets are flat.

5) The bridge is very clean and smooth and I've checked it multiple times. Also, this is the second bridge I've had on the guitar with this issue.

Thanks.

Brian


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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:55 pm
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Niki, Just saw your post. Thanks for the link.

I've just got the one string tree now but I wouldn't be surprised to find out it was off.

The earvana replacement nut looks like a good attempt at a quick solution. Which size would you recommend? The 1 5/8 or the 1 11/16?

Also, I've never replaced a nut. Are they woodglued? What's the best way to go about removing the original?

Thanks,

Brian


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Post subject:
Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:56 pm
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OK. So we can eliminate the bridge and the strings.

At the fretboard side of the nut measure each string from the fretboard up to the bottom of the string. I do mean right up against the nut too.

Also, Have you checked the nut slot for burrs? Is the nut slot clean and smooth?

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