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Post subject: Saddle Screws are near the end
Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:22 pm
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Hello everyone,

I recently installed a callaham vintage S bridge and figured i would attempt my first complete setup.

Here is where i stand.

1. Guitar is tuned to pitch and the strings are laying well at about 5/64th from the bottom of the string to the bottom of the 17th fret.

2. 12th fret harmonics are perfect as well as fretted note.

The problem: The callaham saddle screws are adjusted to damn near the end of the threads. I had to raise them this high to eliminate fret buzz.

So basically they're even, but i know this height isnt normal b/c ive never seen that steep of an inclination before.

What gives?

thanks all..

mark

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Post subject: Re: Saddle Screws are near the end
Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:12 am
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GilmoursGuitars wrote:
Hello everyone,

I recently installed a callaham vintage S bridge and figured i would attempt my first complete setup.

Here is where i stand.

1. Guitar is tuned to pitch and the strings are laying well at about 5/64th from the bottom of the string to the bottom of the 17th fret.

Should be bottom of string to the TOP of the 17th fret.

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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 3:31 am
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Dont the callaham saddles have shorter grubscrews that are designed not to protrude from the top of the saddle when the heights set?

Lots of trem manufacturers like to limit height adjustment like that. I dont think its a good thing. Having a few screws digging in my palm has never worried me in twenty years. Not being able to set my action as high as I may want does.

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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 5:03 am
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In order to raise the strings to a height I liked I had to buy new screws, you can get them at McMaster-Carr.

I can't remember the thread info but here's a start.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#set-screws/=5hfo9x

Someone told me the correct way to fix it is by adding a shim but I didn't go that route. IIRC it's becuase the break angle over the saddles would be too great and not enough over the nut. The only draw back I've noticed is that the with the added height the angle of the saddles (above the trem) is pretty steep.

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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 6:08 am
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Did you try adjusting spring tension? that might help to get action and adjustment play on screws that you desire.

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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 7:19 am
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Thanks for the responses everyone...I really dont like these screws "maxed out" like nikininja stated...

I also have a much lower action towards the lower frets.

What is this an indication of?

Perhaps a nut replacement?

-thanks

mark

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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 8:09 am
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Martian is really up on setup problems.


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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 8:57 am
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Mark

Your lower fret action could be due to nut slot problems, unless you've been sawing away at them its unlikely on a guitar under 5 years old.

I'd look at neck relief first then neck pitch. It could be that your necks not got enough relief or that its been erroneously shimmed.

The simple nut slot check is to fret the 3rd fret with the 3rd finger then use your index finger to fret and release the first fret of the same string. If theres no gap between the top of the first fret and the underside of the string. Its likely that your nut slots worn too low. A small gap is fine, it should only be around .010-.015" on the high E, a little more for bass strings .020".

The truss rod/ neck relief adjustments are explained in the setup guide.
http://www.fender.com/support/stratocaster_setup_guide.php

Neck pitch is a little more complicated to get right and involves you making a fret notched straightedge. I can instruct you through it but its a lengthy process. Best email me for that one.

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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:13 am
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Thanks nikininja,

I put a capo on the 3rd fret and the strings are touching the first fret.

New nut i suppose...?

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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:57 am
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Provided no one ever got happy with cutting/slotting your nut outside of the factory, based on your complaint (and sight unseen), you most likely have an arch (reverse) warp in your neck as it explains all the symptoms.

On a related matter: For the money you all (over)pay for those Callaham units, I would think that at least, the OEM allen screws should be at a longer length in general. Further, the idea of have to shim the saddles for the unit to function correctly on certain Strats is ludicrous. Naturally, this is IMO where YMMV.

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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 10:18 am
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GilmoursGuitars wrote:
Thanks nikininja,

I put a capo on the 3rd fret and the strings are touching the first fret.

New nut i suppose...?


Nah dont capo it, just fret with the 3rd finger. Capo's can put far too much pressure on.

How old is the guitar. The last fender nut I wore out, it took me 9 years to do. They do stand up to a lot of punishment.

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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 10:54 am
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Martian wrote:
Further, the idea of have to shim the saddles for the unit to function correctly on certain Strats is ludicrous.


Opps, I should have specified it was to shim the neck.

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Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2010 11:00 am
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Voodoo Blues wrote:
Martian wrote:
Further, the idea of have to shim the saddles for the unit to function correctly on certain Strats is ludicrous.


Opps, I should have specified it was to shim the neck.


Actually, I would regard it as the same thing if a guitar's neck had to be shimmed in order to accommodate an overpriced, supposedly direct replacement bridge unit.

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