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Post subject: Moving saddles forward and backward - Initally
Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 8:56 am
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Hello Everyone,

I was wondering if someone could walk me through how to initally get the correct saddle adjustment forward and back...not up and down.

I read through the fender instructions but am a bit confused...

So far from what I can see:

1. Measure from the center of the nut to the center of the 12th fret. Got it. 13"

2. Double that: 26"...scale length

3. lost

thanks everyone...

MZ

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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:17 am
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I'd forget that unless your placing a bridge onto a virgin, unrouted body.

Your far better off for the sake of intonation to check the 12thfret harmonic to the 12th fret fretted note.
If the frets flat move the saddle forwards (towards the neck), if its sharp move it back.

Its a lot easier to remember too, fret flat forwards. The 3 F's.

The scale of most fender guitars is 25.5" 648mm.

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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:20 am
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Thanks man...it was driving me crazy; theres no help on the internet on this topic...

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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:26 am
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• INTONATION (ROUGHING IT OUT)
•You can preset the basic intonation of your guitar by taking a tape measure and
measuring from the inside of the nut to the center of the 12th fret (the fret wire itself;
not the fingerboard). Double that measurement to find the scale length of your guitar.
Adjust the first­ string bridge saddle to this scale length, measuring from the inside of
the nut to the center of the bridge saddle.
Now adjust the distance of the second­string
saddle back from the first saddle, using the gauge of the second string as a
measurement. For example, If the second string is .011" (0.3 mm), you would move the
second­string saddle back .011" (0.3 mm) from the first saddle. Move the third saddle
back from the second saddle using the gauge of the third string as a measurement. The
fourth­string saddle should be set parallel with the second­string saddle. Proceed with
the fifth and sixth saddles with the same method used for strings two and three.

Bold isn't working for me. This is the part I'm trying to emphasize...

"Double that measurement to find the scale length of your guitar.
Adjust the first string bridge saddle to this scale length, measuring from the inside of
the nut to the center of the bridge saddle."

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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:32 am
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got that...how do i adjust the others?

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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:35 am
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GilmoursGuitars wrote:
got that...how do i adjust the others?


Forget all of that measuring stuff. Plug into a decent tuner. Play each string open and fretted at the 12th fret. If the fretted note is flatter than the open note move the saddle forward (towards the neck) if the fretted note is sharper then move the saddle backwards (away from the neck). Do this for every string.
Make sure you loosen the string before you make any adjustments and retune to recheck.
This whole process should not take any longer than 10 or 15 minutes.

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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 11:00 am
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+1 on leaving the tape measure in the tool box.

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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 11:30 am
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CAFeathers wrote:
GilmoursGuitars wrote:
got that...how do i adjust the others?


Forget all of that measuring stuff. Plug into a decent tuner. Play each string open and fretted at the 12th fret. If the fretted note is flatter than the open note move the saddle forward (towards the neck) if the fretted note is sharper then move the saddle backwards (away from the neck). Do this for every string.
Make sure you loosen the string before you make any adjustments and retune to recheck.
This whole process should not take any longer than 10 or 15 minutes.


I totally agree. Why such a simple and straightforward tweak has to be turned into such a complicated and mystifying procedure is beyond me.

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Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:26 pm
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CAFeathers wrote:
GilmoursGuitars wrote:
got that...how do i adjust the others?


Forget all of that measuring stuff. Plug into a decent tuner. Play each string open and fretted at the 12th fret. If the fretted note is flatter than the open note move the saddle forward (towards the neck) if the fretted note is sharper then move the saddle backwards (away from the neck). Do this for every string.
Make sure you loosen the string before you make any adjustments and retune to recheck.
This whole process should not take any longer than 10 or 15 minutes.


This.

The Fender Strat bridge couldn't be more easier to intonate. You need a Philips screwdriver and a tuner to check the open and 12th fret notes on each string. Adjust the saddle by screwing it away or toward the neck as noted above. That's it.

Wait until you get a Floyd Rose bridge that needs intonating. Have fun! :shock:


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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:42 am
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Another thing to watch out for.

When you're fretting your notes for intonation purposes, don't press down too hard on to the fretboard. Especially if you have big/tall frets. Just press hard enough for the note to sound cleanly. You don't want to make the fretted note sharp when you're setting up the intonation!

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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 7:19 am
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Another important caveat if you're adjusting the intonation use New strings as older strings won't ring as true and clear as new ones and you'll find that the next time you change strings your intonation will most likely be off again.

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Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 4:12 pm
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GilmoursGuitars wrote:
Thanks man...it was driving me crazy; theres no help on the internet on this topic...


I disagree. There is a TON of info out there. You just need to search "intonation" not "moving saddle back and forth" :wink:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&sour ... oq=&aqi=g3

280,000 results for 'stratocaster intonation' search on google. Even video for setting intonation. Good luck!

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