Ok so I have a 50's Deluxe Players strat(mexican) and I love it other than the fact that I have to take the neck off everytime I want to adjust the truss rod. I am thinking about carving out the wood and pickguard in front of the neck pickup so that I can adjust it without removing anything at all. While I was contemplating this I realized that I can purchase a spoke wheel truss rod nut(as used on ernie ball musicman guitars) from stewmac.com but I'm not 100% positive that it will fit. I'm fully aware that I will still have to remove wood and pickguard for this to fit as it sticks off the end of the neck when installed and that's fine with me. What I really want to know is: 1.) can the current slotted nut be removed from the rod by simply turning it counterclockwise until it comes off, and 2.) what size are the threads? 8-32 or 10-32? Does anyone know the answers to these questions preferably for this specific model? Has anyone tried this? Any input will be appreciated!!

I am afraid that one day the holes that the neck bolts go into will get stripped out.......has anyone encountered this before?

thanks for the input/feedback

just a question....but why are you having to adjust your truss rod so much? sounds like a good time/excuse for a new and better guitar.

OK, so welcome!

OK, so yes to your first question; 10-32 to your second one; yes to your third question; yes to your fourth question, but only to the point of removing the nut. No to your fifth question as I've never had to manipulate the truss rod on one guitar apparently as much as you have.

OK, so the dimensions of your OEM slotted nut are: 3/8" shaft outer diameter with a 7/8" length. That Stew-Mac piece is: 1/2" OD with a 1 1/8" L. You've stated that you have no problem "carving" into your pickguard and body to accommodate but as you can see, you will also have to enlarge the diameter of the truss rod nut shaft hole in your neck by 1/4" to accept the new shaft. This involves opening up the bore in the neck while at the same time, working around the end of the exposed, threaded truss rod. To each his own but speaking as an experienced tech, "carving" is right out. I urgently recommend you either have a competent tech do this or frankly, IMO, it seems to me that you might want to sell this guitar (or at least the neck) and get one where the truss rod adjustment is at the nut.

OK, so YMMV.

OK, so has anyone guessed one of my pet peeves here?

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Ok, so thanks for answering my questions. You seem to really know your stuff, Martian.

Ryan3985 and Martian:

Let me explain what I'm seeing that is making me contemplate these actions, and you can give me your thoughts on the whole situation.

I have 2 strats, the aforementioned Deluxe Players strat, and a Highway One strat. I have had the DP(Deluxe Player) for about 2 years now and during that 2 years, I have probably adjusted the truss rod 4-5 times. When I first got it and set it up, I adjusted it so it was perfectly straight with no bow. As it started "breaking in" I started to get some fret buzz and adjusted it a couple more times until I got what I wanted which is, no dead frets, no buzz, and low action just like any other player would want. The last time I adjusted it I but just a little bow in it because I was getting a little buzz in just a couple of places and I'm so anal about it that I decided to make an adjustment. This was about 5-6 months ago and it's been playing perfectly since.

I bought the HO(Highway One) about 2 months ago and have been alternationg between the 2 ever since. For the past two weeks, however, I have just been playing the HO and the DP has been sittin in the rack in my "man cave." During which time, it has gotten abnormally cold(I live in Mississippi and for the past 10 days or so, it has been a constant 15-20 degrees outside, which is pretty crazy down here). Today I decided to play the DP and when I picked it up to play, it was badly out of tune and it just seems like the action is a lot higher than I remember. I looked down the neck and the slight curve didn't look so slight anymore and I automatically thought, "I need to make an adjustment."

I have never really liked the idea of having to take the neck off to make the adjustment anyway, so I started thinking of ways to remedy the situation so that I don't have to anymore, which leads me here.

I honestly do not think that there is anything wrong with the neck or the guitar. Even though it is mexican made, it is not your average, run-of-the-mill mexican guitar. I've compared it to other American guitars and it seems to be just as sturdy and well-made as most of them. IMHO. I have owned a couple other mexican Fenders and I have gotten a couple of duds so I do have something for comparison. I think, and I could be way out in left field with this, that, it is simply due to the extreme weather conditions we've been having lately.

I did, however, play the DP tonight at band practice and for an hour or so before I left the house and the action did seem to improve a little. I also didn't have any problems with it staying in tune.

What are your thoughts on this? Am I just going crazy? Should I just quit playing guitar? Just kidding!!

Oh, and Martian, I would much rather have a P-Bass any day of the year!!

After 40 some odd years of playing predominantly Stratocasters, I'll say this: As of this typing, by choice, my #1 Strat is a Deluxe Players. So, I am in complete agreement with you on your perception of at least, this MIM model, regardless of what others have to say about it.

Any extreme climates such as outside in 20 degrees, inside at 60 or 70 something degrees, the heat inside which oftentimes is void of any humidity, etc, will affect the woods on a guitar. What I tell people is to set up the guitar in what would be its normal playing environment but there's a big missing piece that many oftentimes forget: If they take their guitar(s) out in sub-freezing temperatures, it can take up to an hour for the guitar to reacclimate to its usual environment of 60 or 70 something degrees and whatever humidity (or lack thereof).

I think the true crux of your dilemma is the above and the constant adjusting; both have the opposite of a stabilizing affect as far as the rod/neck is concerned. You aren't allowing anything to settle down/in. And don't forget, newer wood will be more susceptible to the above as well. The fact that it stayed in tune prior to taking it out of the house bears this out.

If I were you, I'd leave the DP Strat alone until conditions are more typical and then you can adjust it and it should hold for a prolonged period of time save for a few minor tweaks along the way.

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ok, great. That's sounds like a good idea to me. I will wait until the weather warms up a bit and see what happens. Sometimes I see something and my mind starts going 100 mph in all directions and I end up doing something stupid/drastic. Not the case here though. I'm glad I asked someone first this time.

Thank you for your help!!

I think we're all guilty of, "thinking too much" at times.

Glad to be of assistance.

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Not that it really matters, but I realize that I made a mistake. It is a 50's Classic Player's Strat and not a Deluxe Player's Strat. Just to clear the air.

I knew that's what you meant.

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Hey Martian, I have another question on a totally different subject.

My friend bought a squier strat and got some vintage noiseless pickups for it upon my recommendation. He wants me to wire and install them since I know about electronics/soldering and he doesn't. I can follow the "wiring diagram"(if you could call it that) just fine but it only shows the use of one capacitor. It came with one resistor and two caps. My question is, what is the other cap and resistor for? I'm assuming you can use them for a high pass filter on the volume pot? If so, how does one wire this particular mod?

That other resistor and capacitor are indeed for a treble retention circuit. For the VNs however, this circuit is virtually useless. It will make the pickups sound tinny and 'sterile' and will make the volume pot act erratically. However, if you feel compelled to use it, looking at the volume pot with the shaft facing toward the floor and the terminals directly in front of you, one leg of both the cap and the resistor are wired to the left terminal of the volume pot along with the hot wire coming from the pickup selector switch. The other leg of the cap and resistor are both wired to the pot's middle terminal along with the hot wire to the output jack. Don't confuse the capacitors now or your circuit will really act funny.

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That sounds just dandy. I think i'll use the treble curcuit on my Classic Player. I installed the Dimarzio area '61, '67, '58 pickups and I was wanting to do this mod anyway but didn't know what parts to use or if there is a kit or what.

FWIW, that circuit will have the same effect with the DiMarzios yet like I said, if you must...

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Rather than be a smartass, I'll let you know how I did it:

Removed the old nut.

Used 1/2" OD steel bushing material with a big enough ID to clear the exposed threaded rod. Mine was 3 inches long, but longer is better for torque.

Filed a nice chamfer on the end of the bushing material and then used my file to cut three sharp cutting flutes onto the chamfers.

Filed a flat on the side of the non-working end of the bushing material, installed a thread-tapping handle and then went to town boring-out the hole (make sure you pull it out and clear the chips often)

Once the bulk of the cutting is done, you can clean it up with some 200-grit wrapped around the end of your cutting tool - .

And I haven't even been playing for 40 years.

That sounds like a really smart idea. I haven't gotten around to doing the mod yet but still intend to at some point. I had pretty much decided that when I do it, I will just shave down the OD of the shaft on the spoke wheel that actually goes into the hole so that it will fit. That sounds good too though.
BTW, I haven't had anymore issues with my truss rod. I don't think I ever really did, tell you the truth. I did adjust it so that it has a slight bow and all is well. I do, however, still want to install the spoke wheel nut because I just think they're cool.
I did end up getting rid of the Highway One strat and am actually about to buy a Candy Apple Red American Deluxe Strat v Neck. I've been wanting one forever and I love V Neck strats but I also like flatter radius fretboards than say a 7.25 as on a '57 strat so when I realized that the AD had a compound radius fretboard on a tinted V Neck I realized that I just can't live without it!! She will be mine......Oh yes!! She will be mine!!!

thank you for your input on the truss rod nut though....I still just hate the thought of having to take the neck off if ever I want to adjust it. Oh and when I get the AD I will be getting some pearl buttons for the tuning machines because I think that just looks awesome......stewmac has those as well.