I found one of those 90s mim squire series strats on ebay for cheap $250 usa buy now price. It's a black 95 with a maple neck in near mint shape and there is a little less than 2 days left on the auction with no bids. I know you like these strats and so do I but I am not able to buy it (would if I could) and thought that you mite be interested.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1995-Fender-Stratoc ... 1c0f1b1cb0

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Why thankyou for the heads up. Thats very thoughtful of you Stratohawk. Unfortunately the seller will only ship to US locations. Also once shipping and taxes are paid it would cost me close on £400/$600.

I'm still tempted simply because you never see anything 15 years old in that condition anymore. Especialy what would have been considered a knockabout guitar.

Thankyou once again sir. Very thoughtful of you.

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Nikininja please email me at fman600@comcast.net I would like to talk to you.

Brad says that when they've finished the Forum makeover private messaging will be enabled on this site. Then we can all send our questions direct to Nikininja and Martian... and there will be little further reason to post on these boards!!! It's going to get very quiet round here...



- C

Dang Ceri - that picture looks like just down the road from me. Southwest Oklahoma is pretty empty!

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Old age and treachery will win every time over youth and enthusiasm.

"You can never have too many Tele's." A quote from my Sweetwater Sales Engineer

If that's the case Ceri, how am I going to learn anything?

who'd want to ask me anything?

Fman the mail is sent.

Private messaging may be good for bringing hidden viewers out of the woodwork.

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Fman your the seller is that what you anted to talk to nika about

After seeing that link, I'm pretty convinced that it's the same as what I just bought at a pawn shop. It's hard to tell, this one doesn't have a serial # or anything telling where it came from.



Nothing on it front or back.

Looking at the hardware, it looks the same (although this one has sealed tuners). The body is 1 3/4", the neck looks great, but I'm in the process of fixing it. The guitar with the stock pickups is better than my CV '60s. So much so that I put a CV neck back on it and I'm going to put off the neck fix. It's just too cold around here at night for the fix to complete. Summertime around here and I'll be able to manipulate the neck however I want. Why pay a huge gas bill when the Sun is free.

So I got it back together, finished all of the setups last night and played on it for a good 3 hrs. Unbelievable Squier.

This is how it looks after some cosmetic adjustments:


Ready to roll!! I still can't believe how good these stock pickups sound. If it is a MIM Squier, then I can easily see why Niki likes them.

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Shred its a fender from when they took over the ensenada plant from squire. The laminated body on Ceri's repair thread is the body off that guitar. The hardware is squire, the body and neck fender. Carved in Corona given the age of the guitar too. I suspect the body was a thinner smaller squire, laminated up to fender body size. Just after I bought it a friend of mine checked a squire pickguard on it, it didnt fit. Fender ones did though.

Incidently I'm planning on Vee'ing the neck a little. Any advice?

I notice you filled the truss access hole in your squire. Lets have a closer look eh mate? What did you re-hardware it with? Spill the beans eh, you know were ravenous for all the gorey details here.

I'm a firm believer in digging through a pile of muck to get to the diamond. I also suspect that every guitar has a bit of diamond quality in it somewhere. It's whether you can dig it out or not.

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the famous "crossroads"?

Right, the specs really aren't Squier-like. The neck hole spacing is slightly different too.. When I was in the process of the neck fix, I originally tried to fit an Indonesian neck to it and it just wasn't gonna happen. That's when I went with the CV, and even then, it barely fit without having to plug and re-drill. Aftermarket tuners fit in the tuner holes as well.. So that does make sense to me.

To tell you the truth, you may not need to V it unless you just like more of a V than fender stock necks come. The original Squier neck from this one is as V-shaped as my '57 RI. Only difference is that the '57 has more of a smooth transition in the contour to the headstock just under the nut.

It just depends on how V-shaped you want it. I seem to remember a few years back checking out a Strat at Sam Ash and the neck had a really extreme V-shape compared to mine. Only reason I remember is because I thought it felt really odd to me and didn't like it very much.

If you have a neck that has the V-shape you like in it, then make some templates. One for the top, one for the middle, and one for the bottom. Then just good 'ol sanding blocks, elbow grease and patience. Use the templates to see the progress. Much like what you were saying with intonation, you have to trust your instincts and keep feeling it with your hands. Even if it means closing your eyes to heighten that sense. This is one of those things where you just have to free-form it.

You would want to be also sanding without a block as well to smooth out any flat spots as you go along. Just alternate between the 2 until you have it where you want it.

Everone's different when it comes to sanding grits. I know for an extreme V, I would start with 80 to get the initial shape started ( I call it bumping) if a lot of material needed to be removed initially, but I'd use 100 for a majority of it, then as it starts getting close 120, then 150-180-220 no block. If the shape was relatively close, I'd bump it with 100 then 120, 150-180-220 no block. Then see if higher grits are needed. Scratches will be seen if you skip grits, so I would keep that pretty regimented. It's really hard to describe in a post when it's time to change grits, it's something you have to feel. If you feel the 80 in your hand, and you feel like it's too course, then trust that instinct and move up in grit. The worst that can happen is you'll use more of that elbow grease. Something that won't affect the neck. I can personally sand on something by hand all day long and not get impatient or bored. So I'm cool with spending more time with the finer grits.

As far as filling the truss hole, it's just a shadow..

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This neck is a D or U shape. All I really want to do is flatten out the treble side of it a little. The bass side is really comfortable on my thumb, I've never felt anything like it. Howerver my small hands sometimes find it could be better on the reachround on the treble side.

I'll spend a bit longer considering it I think. Maybe even muck about on a few bits of timber I've got knocking around.

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I wouldn't even touch that with 80. Start with 120. If you feel like you're buffing more than sanding, do some 100 a little, then switch back (120 can gum up pretty fast) and finish with the higher grits to your liking. But it's a free-form procedure. Just be wary of how straight you are in going with the grain.

Also, go with Garnet paper, don't use paper-backed stuff.

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Sadly, my life is full of people who flatly fail to understand why I would be interested in reading a long discussion on sandpaper.

But I am!

Great stuff - thanks guys!

Cheers - C