I would redo the set up from scratch and check frets for level. Getting buzz all up the neck truss may be out of sort. Most likely not as bad as you think.

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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.

Thomas Jefferson

cool thanks. whats your views on adding more neck relief for someone with a harder pick attack? or should it always be the same(ish) also the thing is im english and we dont use imperial anymore so the rulers are hard to find and you cant really convert imperial to metric when using small increments. some people say the thickness of a credit card gap for relief? just as a guide?

Look in school and they will have metric rulers but in any workshop or trade tools store you will be able to find imperial tool sets.
Go onto ebay you will find a 6 or 8" steel rule for a few pounds. One with metric and imperial is the best.

A set of digital calipers is great for quick on the fly metric to imperial conversions.
Just dial it up and hit a button. A cheap set will cost about 15 pounds.

Flaten the neck and check the frets for level. It mat be something as simple as having to tamp down a fret or two. If you need to level them you will need a leveling block an magic marker dressing files.

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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.

Thomas Jefferson

Its buzzing on the next fret along from what's been fretted iv that narrows it down?

As I mentioned before you need to start with a straightened neck as best you can by using the truss rod first otherwise your testing a neck that may already have a deliberate set bow in it.

If you have identified a point where the buzzing occurs:
Play a few frets before it.
Play a few frets after it.
Try all strings at that same position.

If it only buzzes on that fret then that fret is low (worn?) or the immediate one after is high or loose.

If only the one string buzzes and you have already replaced the string then it could be a low spot on that fret.

You can use a credit card as an improvised fret rocker. By using it over 3 frets and rocking it. You can see if there any high frets. Inspect every string position and see if you can see low frets or gaps under the rocker.

If you have back bow (not a straight neck) all this checking won't get you far.

A good luthier or seasoned setup tech should be able to evaluate the neck and give you a rough idea of the problem. If your not willing to adjust the truss rod or dress the frets (sand, file, polish the metal) then this is the best option for you.

If you unsure how to adjust the truss rod but want to give it a go theres a few tips and tricks when it comes to that as well.

What's the proper order for a "from scratch" setup? First thing to check is? Second, third, etc.? The only thing I know for sure is that setting intonation would be last (at least I think it would be last). As we've went from summer to winter, I've noticed some changes in my MIM so I'd like to ensure factory specs are still in play but Fender doesn't really mention the order.

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Then again, what do I know ... I've only been playin' for 6 months ... !

Well, yeah ... I've had that as a bookmark for quite a while (also in the owner's manual) but didn't realize that was the actual order. Thanks.

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Then again, what do I know ... I've only been playin' for 6 months ... !

When dealing with buzz tons of players are so quick to go to the saddles for a quick fix. As this is only one of a few aspects that can lead to fret buzz it is at best occasionally the proper solution.

As some have suggested, and I suspect this is part of the issue as well, is the relief of the neck. In scanning this thread is seems to me that solutions to this potential problem have been well addressed.

Next comes the frets themselves. A quick run up the neck with the proper hammer (I'm not saying run out to the carpark and get your ballpien) tapping each fret from edge to edge to make sure each is properly seated could be a solution. Of course, given wear it may just be time for a dressing.

What in my mind is the most likely culprit (besides the relief) is the nut. After time and wear the string slots on the nut become eroded (especially on the thinner strings) thus reducing the action (be it ever so slightly). Of course, with your guitar having a reverse headstock there is the possibility that it was not properly slotted to begin with. I've also run up on a few cases (again on the G-low E strings) where the nut showed hair line cracks between the slots and shank.

Its also worth noting that I am by no means an expert on these matters. These are simply the observations of a garage guitar tinkerer. Best of luck with getting the problem solved.

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"I started out with nothing, and still have most of it"

You need proper straight edge and notched straight edge. But relief can be checked with the capo at the first fret and hold down the last fret and bounce the string 1/2 way. You can move up as well to the 12th 7th frets and check there.

Truss rod adjustment:
** This is at your own risk. Small adjustments and then re-evaluate your progress!

You don't need to detune for this, you can if you wish though its a lot of hassle tuning up all the time.

The G and D strings cover the truss rod hole. Lift them up out of the nut carefully with your forefinger and thumb and place the G on the B. Then place the D on the A. This will allow your wrench to move freely and avoid ruining your strings.

Insert the short end of your wrench and make sure you gently turn it a little to make sure it is fully inserted.

Now first you should back off the truss rod nut. Remember "righty tighty lefty loosey"? Turn the wrench away (counter clockwise) from you a fraction while keeping the neck firmly held in place.

You only want to budge it to see if it will turn. It should be tight. If you feel it "give" a little turn it a little more. No more than 1/4 turn all up.

Go make a cup of coffee and then take another relief measurement with your Capo. Your looking for a bit of bouce anywhere between the 1st and the Last, 12th, 7th frets. If you get some bounce now you have added some relief and the neck should be now have forward/concave bow.

If still not there loosen the truss rod up to a quarter turn more. If it is freely moving however then you should tighten it up a little to at least a point where you feel some tension tightening it. The idea is you want tension but just to release enough to get a bit of relief or bow.

At this point if you want to get the neck straight. You loosen till you get string bounce and tighten till you get no more. And then start using a straight edge to check your work.

Some times the neck can move so best to put the strings back tune to pitch and come back and recheck it. If you get the slightest movement you will be out of tune/pitch and know its settling in.

If the truss rod won't budge then leave it and take it to a repairer. A fender guy if you can.

Temperature and moisture also affect how straight and true guitar necks are. I think if you cannot evaluate how straight it is yourself you should take it to someone at least with tools and skip the local guys. To get it evaluated should be cheap if not free to an experienced eye.

True and the only fix you will get from most setup techs.



At the moment its more like "add some relief so we just know its not that". It would seem to be a hump or risen tongue at the 12th onwards?. A straight edge is the only way to know for sure. The neck may have taken on moisture as well at some point.



I think that is a bad idea myself unless you know the condition of the whole neck. Frets will normally pop back out as well its a temp solution.



This ones good to remember, the nut is not used at all while playing except on open strings.

Open string buzz is really annoying and can be quickly checked by a capo of the 3rd noted fret. Then see if there is string movement over the first fret wire itself. If no movement the first fret is too high, the second fret is too low or the nut slot is too low. Lots of variables but its still a quick check. In either case you can use a feeler gauge or a steel rule to measure it.

In this case its 12th fret onwards so the nut should have been well and truly ruled out at this point.