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Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 3:25 pm
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I like the way the photographs are staged and the word narration applied to them. As good as you would get in any well published magazine or book!

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Fender Play Winter Sale 2020
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Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 4:08 pm
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This thread ranks right up there with the pickup shoot-out on another forum for me. I'm 10xs more riveted than I was with the Vinnypop thread.

Beats reality TV any day!!

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Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 4:45 pm
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fhopkins wrote:
Here is where I got it from Ceri. Might have misunderstood. Niki and BigJay were talking.
http://www.fender.com/community/forums/ ... ht=#359234


Seems they were talking about wrestlers. :lol:


Fhop I'm really taking my life into my hands letting this info slip, but heres the real reason.

http://www.fender.com/community/forums/viewtopic.php?t=30728&start=15

Its his opposite number's code name for him. Shhhhh dont tell anyone, if this gets out I'm done for. :wink:

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Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 4:52 pm
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Heh! Heh! You can count on me to keep it DTS Niki!! :wink:


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Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 4:56 pm
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Ceri must have a direct line to Stew-Mac now? :wink:

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Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 7:05 pm
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Looks great Ceri. I have a feeling this ones going to become something extremely special.

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Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 8:34 pm
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fhopkins wrote:
I really like the idea of a strat/tele combo as mentioned earlier in this thread.


yeah, I did too. But this first little repair seems to indicate that that idea is out. :(

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Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:14 pm
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Ceri good show! Can't want to tune in tomorrow evening.

I vote for metalic charcoal grey for the new color.

-Tagg


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Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:28 pm
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[quote="Miami Mike"]Holy shinola!

Are you sure, Batman :?: Certainly doesn't look like it, or smell like it. 8)

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Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:40 pm
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Miami Mike wrote:
Go for the 'bowling ball' look : :wink:


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Didn't I tell you there was something very 'non-Shinola' about that body. 8)
I hate getting into these long threads as a late arrival. It's almost 1 a.m. and I wasn't about to start reading it old testatment style.

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Posted: Fri Dec 04, 2009 8:13 am
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FRIDAY. Hi people: I have just seen Chet's sad news -

http://www.fender.com/community/forums/ ... hp?t=30844

I also lost a brother a few years ago. As a gesture of respect for Carl Feathers, Chet and his family I intend not to post any further on the Forum at present.

Let our thoughts be with the Feathers family today.

I will resume this thread later.

- C


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Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:29 am
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BigJay wrote:
fhopkins wrote:
Of course not BigJay. It has to do with the color of the bobbin. Everyone knows that. :wink: The TS has better tone! :)


Yup. Grey sounds better than white or black.

Wait....I sound like Im back at Alpine Valley slinkin around a Dead show.........


No just a touch of grey :wink:


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Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 1:29 pm
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:(

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Last edited by Toliver-Lyons on Sat Dec 05, 2009 1:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 1:37 pm
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Ceri wrote:
FRIDAY. Hi people: I have just seen Chet's sad news -

http://www.fender.com/community/forums/ ... hp?t=30844

I also lost a brother a few years ago. As a gesture of respect for Carl Feathers, Chet and his family I intend not to post any further on the Forum at present.

Let our thoughts be with the Feathers family today.

I will resume this thread later.

- C


Leave it alone till the mans ready eh lads.

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Posted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 1:43 pm
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[Saturday] Hi all: first, thank you for respecting my previous post (above). Noted and appreciated.

Back to work.

Previously on Touching Up Nikininja's Body - we seem to have sorted that big crack in the middle and have started tidying up some of the cavities. But what to do about the rest of that fire damage round the front?

Take another look at the pics on the first page. The wood between the neck pocket and first pickup cavity has almost entirely disintegrated and that pocket is too destroyed to ever hold a neck secure again. And whilst chiselling for the crack repair another lump of wood fell off beside the back pickup cavity.

This thing is in BAD shape: serious surgery is needed.

Here is a larger piece of ash, also from one of my own trees, felled and seasoned by me ( :D ). There is still a strip of bark on the side. My brother-in-law's circular saw would cut this to size in a couple of seconds. Oh well...:
Image

Here's a machine I bought earlier this year. A planer, known in some parts of the world as a jointer:
Image

For those that don't know, you pass the wood from right to left across the spinning blade and plane some off. By varying the height of the right-hand milled steel bed you control how much timber is removed with each pass. I am taking off about a millimetre at a time. The sawdust quickly fills that bucket on the left (previous pic):
Image

The vertical back plate means you plane a perfect right angle into the wood (or any other angle you set it to). This one will cope with anything up to 150mm / 6" wide, so I can do all the planes of this block.

Here is the resulting lump of wood, with a tiny piece of bark still on one corner. Not to worry, that won't get in the way :wink: . Also here you can see a jig I have made from a grubby old scrap of plywood. It is only ever going to get used once so I'm not going to waste expensive marine ply on it...:
Image

I used the router to create the inside edges of that template along a straightedge guide so that they are perfectly true. I'm sure you can work out what is coming next:
Image

The jig is clamped over the front of the guitar.

Now, some of you know how routers work and some may not. So I'll try to err on the side of giving too much detail for those that are unfamiliar with the procedure. The router has a base plate which sits flat to the top of the work. The body of the machine can rise or descend projecting the cutting head through the center of the plate:
Image

This particular cutter has a collar above it on the shank which spins on ball bearings inside. The collar is exactly the same width as the cutter, so it can follow a guide, such as the jig I've just made, and the cutter will excavate an exactly similar shaped cavity in the work piece below.

Here is the router sitting on top of the jig with the blade ready to start removing the unwanted wood from the guitar body:
Image

You can lower the router and its blade in small stages down into the work and so remove timber in many shallow passes. This method helps reduce the likelihood of the cutter suddenly tearing out a larger chunk of wood than you intended - a constant risk with routers. They are appallingly fierce machines! Here is the cavity after the initial shallow passes:
Image

We are peeling the wood away in small archaeological layers. This little gizmo with knobs to the right-hand corner of the router is the depth gauge. That allows the cutting blade to descend in controlled increments:
Image

Here we are after a few more passes. The neck pocket has almost disappeared but the burning at the bottom of the pickup cavities is still all too present:
Image

After a couple more passes we are nearly level with the bottom of the pickup cavities - but a problem is emerging:
Image

In the bottom right corner of the large cavity we are making I keep getting a nasty mark where the bottom of the cutter has dug in. A close-up makes it clearer:
Image

At first I couldn't understand why I kept getting that problem in that particular spot. We certainly don't want a gouge like that at the bottom of the finished cavity: that would compromise the next stage of the job.

Then, after examining the process from different angles I realised what I should have seen all along. At this end of the jig the base of the router is only supported in one place because it is not wide enough to span the gap we are making. So it can fall downwards a little and dig further into the wood. It was only happening at this point because I route an internal jig like this in a clockwise direction: after passing along the far edge of the jig I then come across above the neck pocket and the way my hands travelled holding the machine at this moment allowed the cutter to drop a touch. (Did you follow that...?)
Image

The core problem is that the base of the router is not wide enough for this particular job. Luckily, I am the sort of fellow who has sheets of Perspex lying around for just this sort of occasion. I used some to cut out a makeshift wider router base - here I am cutting out the center hole on the pillar drill with a hole saw:
Image

You can see in that pic that the daylight was going fast: need to work quickly - but not make mistakes! Here is the temporary router base fitted to the bottom of the router: I'm using double sided tape for now, but it might be useful to drill out fixing holes later because that wider base could be handy in the future:
Image

And here's the finish cavity:
Image

You will be wondering why there is still burnt wood to be seen. I have excavated that cavity as far as I dare. We are within a couple of millimetres of coming out into the spring cavity round the back of the guitar and I think that would seriously weaken an already compromised structure. So I am going to live with those remaining scorch marks and bury them beneath the ash block that is going into that cavity. Not ideal but...

It shows how hot and concentrated Niki's little fire was that the burning has penetrated down so far beneath the floor of the pickup cavities, doesn't it? Amazing...

'Fraid I've run out of daylight now so we'll fit that new ash block in tomorrow's instalment. Tune in, same time same place...!

Cheers - C
_____________

The Blue Badger


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