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Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 8:11 am
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Snow for the Snow leopards...... Ours is melting right now. Can't wait to see the next step on the top. I think I know but...might be wrong...

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Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:21 am
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You can never tell with our friend Ceri!! I'm sure it will be nice and done with a lot of care!! 8) :wink:


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Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 11:55 am
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Noooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!! i dont know if i can wait that long :( Its just getting too exciting now! lol

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Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:55 pm
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Hey Ceri, sorry you got a bit of snow. looking really good so far.

How I have handled the faux binding on advice from people on another forum:

Run your tape like you did in the first attempt, taking great care that there are no gaps. 1/8" vinyl tape (is that what you had?) Then I would mask on each side of it again taking care to seal the tape and not overlap. need patience and some steady paws to do that. then remove the center piece of tape and mist a couple coats of clear. let it cure overnight (or 2)Then you re-apply your center piece of tape and remove the other two. This leaves you with a taped off binding like stripe. You will then have your body ready to dye/lacquer/paint etc.
the lacquer under the tape will seal the stripe and help prevent any bleeding or unevenness, any minor imperfections will then be really easy to scrape off.

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Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 4:10 pm
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Let Dan Erlewine do things his way and you do things your way, Ceri!

You must be near Wales, someone else emailed me about a snowstorm there.

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Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 4:44 pm
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fhopkins wrote:
You can never tell with our friend Ceri!! I'm sure it will be nice and done with a lot of care!! 8) :wink:


...............and ethically, too :!: :P

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Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 7:37 pm
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Ceri this projects looks great.


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Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:38 pm
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Ceri, with regards to getting the color come out on the photo, it depends on your camera, but if you have the option for custom white balance you may be able to get a little bit closer to the real color. Usually AWB or auto white balance does the trick but it doesn't do so well on these vibrant colors.

If you have a setting on your camera that allows for custom while balance, the trick is to shoot a photo, in the light you are working in, of a plain white or preferrably slightly gray piece of plain paper. Shoot that in the auto white balance setting, then go to your menu and select custom white balance. It will then ask you to select an image that the camera will use to set the white balance and hopefully an accurate reproduction of your color. Select that photo of the white/gray paper. Close the camera menu and then change the white balance setting from auto to custom. The Custom White Balance setting is normally a funky looking icon and its probably different on a Canon from a Nikon or any other brand. You can find out which one in your users manual. (like you have the time !)

If your light is changing (morning to afternoon, or under a lamp) then you need to change that custom white balance each time. I know this is probably the last thing you have time to do or may want to do, but perhaps when you get closer to finishing the body, if you have that option on the camera you may be able to get a good representation of the actual body color.

Of course, after all that, it will come out slightly different on all of our monitors because of the way each monitor reproduces color. :roll:


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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:26 am
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Hi guys: I gotta make tracks (ho-ho) for the station in a minute but just stopping in to say:

First, thank you as ever for generous and encouraging comments. Appreciated! :D

Next: Twelvebar, that is very interesting and not a sequence I have come across before. You explain it very clearly and it makes complete sense. This tape is indeed the vinyl type I believe, though I'm not convinced it'll stick much better round those tight curves even once there is lacquer underneath. I hope so though, because painting that latex mask on really is extremely tedious! Not looking forward to doing it twice more.

But I'm not quite sure if I'm understanding you right - are you saying you've carried out that particular faux binding process yourself? If so, please, please show us the results. I'm hot to see!

Chicagoblue: thank you for taking the time to talk me through that. Just goes to show how much better I might be doing if I ever bothered to read the instructions of these two digital cameras I'm using! D'oh!

Previously, I've foggily groped my way to a similar result by having someone hold a sheet of paper in front of the camera for metering before snatching it out the way for the actual photo to be taken. However, I seldom have an assistant on hand for taking all these pics, so your way is much more sensible!

I'll double check the instructions of my cameras to discover their own quirks - now at least I know what I'm looking for!

Thank you.

See you later guys - C


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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:35 am
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Chicagoblue wrote:
Ceri, with regards to getting the color come out on the photo, it depends on your camera, but if you have the option for custom white balance you may be able to get a little bit closer to the real color. Usually AWB or auto white balance does the trick but it doesn't do so well on these vibrant colors.

If you have a setting on your camera that allows for custom while balance, the trick is to shoot a photo, in the light you are working in, of a plain white or preferrably slightly gray piece of plain paper. Shoot that in the auto white balance setting, then go to your menu and select custom white balance. It will then ask you to select an image that the camera will use to set the white balance and hopefully an accurate reproduction of your color. Select that photo of the white/gray paper. Close the camera menu and then change the white balance setting from auto to custom. The Custom White Balance setting is normally a funky looking icon and its probably different on a Canon from a Nikon or any other brand. You can find out which one in your users manual. (like you have the time !)

If your light is changing (morning to afternoon, or under a lamp) then you need to change that custom white balance each time. I know this is probably the last thing you have time to do or may want to do, but perhaps when you get closer to finishing the body, if you have that option on the camera you may be able to get a good representation of the actual body color.

Of course, after all that, it will come out slightly different on all of our monitors because of the way each monitor reproduces color. :roll:


That's a good tip! Mind if I use it? I have a Nikon and have been having the same problem. Thanks!! :)


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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:28 am
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I hope we get to see the end results soon.

Anyone have a tip how to fix a dent that cracked the poly finish on the back of the headstock of my guitar?

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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:21 pm
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Ceri wrote:
But I'm not quite sure if I'm understanding you right - are you saying you've carried out that particular faux binding process yourself? If so, please, please show us the results. I'm hot to see!

Ayy I am a poor typist Ceri, my post should have saidt said "How I would have handled..." I have only tried it out on scrap, in the end I went another direction with that Ibanez. It worked great, but it was on a straight edge. i'll have to test it out on a real guitar. I got that advice, nearly verbatim from people on another forum.

here is the example I looked at, it's also a nice 'burst. This dud knows his stuff.
http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index ... opic=12912

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Last edited by Twelvebar on Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:21 pm
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DetroitBlues wrote:
I hope we get to see the end results soon.

Anyone have a tip how to fix a dent that cracked the poly finish on the back of the headstock of my guitar?
Take a picture please.

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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 6:20 pm
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Twelvebar wrote:
Ayy I am a poor typist Ceri...

Er, really not! Frankly, I understood your description far better than that of the guy writing the thread you linked to. 8) If I only had his words to go on I'm not certain I'd have entirely got what was happening.

Hmmm. Not sure if I'll end up trying it that way another time or not. My latex mask sure is time consuming - but I kinda feel it's my own invention! :D At least, I've never heard of anyone else doing it that way, for perhaps obvious reasons.

By the way, I can think of all kinds of more fancy uses to put that paint-on mask to. But that's for another thread...

I can find no single online source for the whole process I'm intending for this job - because of course it is going to be an amalgamation of my own devising of techniques to suit the unusual circumstances of this particular body. But this six page sequence of Dan Erlewine's gives anyone who is hungry for more a beginner's overview of a standard approach to faux binding - more or less:

http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Finishi ... uitar.html

Comparing his method with mine - my mask application may have taken a long time. But then I had to do hardly any of that scraping and sanding of the binding afterwards, because the latex did its job so successfully. Swings and roundabouts, maybe?

Anyhow, stay tuned. There will be more to my finish than that...

'Night all - C


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Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:27 pm
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Ceri wrote:
Twelvebar wrote:
Ayy I am a poor typist Ceri...

Er, really not! Frankly, I understood your description far better than that of the guy writing the thread you linked to. 8) If I only had his words to go on I'm not certain I'd have entirely got what was happening.

Hmmm. Not sure if I'll end up trying it that way another time or not. My latex mask sure is time consuming - but I kinda feel it's my own invention! :D At least, I've never heard of anyone else doing it that way, for perhaps obvious reasons.

By the way, I can think of all kinds of more fancy uses to put that paint-on mask to. But that's for another thread...

I can find no single online source for the whole process I'm intending for this job - because of course it is going to be an amalgamation of my own devising of techniques to suit the unusual circumstances of this particular body. But this six page sequence of Dan Erlewine's gives anyone who is hungry for more a beginner's overview of a standard approach to faux binding - more or less:

http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Finishi ... uitar.html

Comparing his method with mine - my mask application may have taken a long time. But then I had to do hardly any of that scraping and sanding of the binding afterwards, because the latex did its job so successfully. Swings and roundabouts, maybe?

Anyhow, stay tuned. There will be more to my finish than that...

'Night all - C
Oh ceri, i should point out, i never meant to imply the method I mentioned to be superior, only that it was an alternative. the link I put up, also, wasn't as descriptively clear, but the pictures illustrated what i meant. I actually like the latex mask idea, it's an elegant idea, since i am usually a little nervous whenever I have to do any scraping.and I can see an application for when I get to painting that LP copy. It kind of reminds me of the way wax is used when doing Ukrainian Easter eggs. http://www.learnpysanky.com/steps.html

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