Scratches on my beloved.

submaniac · **Joined:** Sat Sep 26, 2009 12:11 pm **Posts:** 22

texasguitarslinger wrote:

Wow, I might use some of that stuff on my Michael Kelly. It's kind of dull on the back from little scratches like that.

Make sure you know what type of finish it is. The polyester/polyurethane on a Fender is really thick, durable (near indestructible) stuff. If your guitar's finish is nitrocellulose, do it by hand and be very gentle. Nitro is more fragile, and the thickness of the finish can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

texasguitarslinger · **Posted:** Sat Sep 26, 2009 5:31 pm

submaniac wrote:

texasguitarslinger wrote:

Wow, I might use some of that stuff on my Michael Kelly. It's kind of dull on the back from little scratches like that.

Make sure you know what type of finish it is. The polyester/polyurethane on a Fender is really thick, durable (near indestructible) stuff. If your guitar's finish is nitrocellulose, do it by hand and be very gentle. Nitro is more fragile, and the thickness of the finish can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

It's definately not nitro, but I'll check before I do anything just to be sure.

gldfshkpr · **Posted:** Sat Sep 26, 2009 6:49 pm

You know I must say, I'm impressed with the finishes of these new Strats. I used to think it was a deal-breaker for me if the finish wasn't nitro. Oh, and thanks submaniac for the recommendation to use the ScratchX. Really all I did was wipe it on and wipe it off.

Mr Bill · **Posted:** Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:20 pm

Hello Gldfshkpr,

Hooray for urethane armor. :wink:

Cheers,

submaniac · **Joined:** Sat Sep 26, 2009 12:11 pm **Posts:** 22

gldfshkpr wrote:

You know I must say, I'm impressed with the finishes of these new Strats. I used to think it was a deal-breaker for me if the finish wasn't nitro. Oh, and thanks submaniac for the recommendation to use the ScratchX. Really all I did was wipe it on and wipe it off.

Happy it worked for you! :lol:

schmintan · **Joined:** Fri Nov 28, 2008 2:41 pm **Posts:** 424

why carry a knife everywhere? Protection? does this mean you are willing to stick it into someone under certain circumstances?

siprelude89 · **Joined:** Tue Aug 25, 2009 1:28 am **Posts:** 17

schmintan wrote:

why carry a knife everywhere? Protection? does this mean you are willing to stick it into someone under certain circumstances?

I carry a knife at all times more for usefulness than anything. That being said, if i had to... yes.

Texryder · **Posted:** Fri Oct 02, 2009 12:09 pm

Looks like you have a beautiful road worrier now.

Ceri · **Posted:** Fri Oct 02, 2009 12:39 pm

submaniac wrote:

gldfshkpr wrote:

Well, I'm happy to report that ScratchX works. I tested it first with a microfibre rag and it was like wiping the scratches away. There is the finest of scratches left but they are very hard to see. Very. I did my best to document the fine scratches in this photo.

Ahem, told you it would work. :wink:

Trust me, have been doing this a long time. If you want all the scratches completely gone, keep on rubbing. If you get more scratches later, you can take them out the same way later. The finish on a modern stratocaster (as opposed to the vintage with the nitrocellulose lacquer) is extremely thick. You can keep on rubbing the scratches out for a long time without having to worry about going through the finish. I tried my hand at refinishing an actual Fender body with an electric sander--and it still took me a couple days to get through it because it is so thick.

Hi submaniac: you gave great advice and it worked a treat. Neat!

The one bit I'd politely disagree with is what I underlined. Fender's polyurethane and polyester finishes are not the same thing at all. The polyester on MIMs is indeed very thick, the urethane often much less so.

In fact, looking at gldfshkpr's photo here, it almost seems as if the finish is sinking into the grain where the light is catching it in the upper left corner of the pic, doesn't it? If that's right then that is very thin indeed for a plastic based finish - like on the front of an acoustic.

So just a word of caution to gldfshkpr: when chasing the last traces of those scratches don't be tempted to go too far and rub right through the clearcoat. That would be a pain after all this success!

Cheers - C

siprelude89 · **Joined:** Tue Aug 25, 2009 1:28 am **Posts:** 17

This really came out great!

Eracer_Team · **Joined:** Thu Oct 30, 2008 8:46 am **Posts:** 133

I thought that it was Nitro until I went back to the products side of the web site.

2008-2009 MIA Spec's
Thinner Undercoat Finish for Improved Body Resonance,
Tinted Neck,
Maple Fingerboard Neck: Satin Finish on Back, Gloss Finish on Front;
Rosewood Fingerboard Neck: Satin Finish on Back, Gloss Finish on Headstock

that's all it says about the finish

Ceri · **Posted:** Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:52 pm

Eracer_Team wrote:

I thought that it was Nitro until I went back to the products side of the web site.

2008-2009 MIA Spec's
Thinner Undercoat Finish for Improved Body Resonance,
Tinted Neck,
Maple Fingerboard Neck: Satin Finish on Back, Gloss Finish on Front;
Rosewood Fingerboard Neck: Satin Finish on Back, Gloss Finish on Headstock

that's all it says about the finish

Hi Eracer_Team: I think you'll find if you click the "specs" button that MIAs (excluding reissues and one or two others) have urethane finishes on body and neck. MIMs have urethane on the neck but polyester on the body.

Cheers - C

Shredd6 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:42 pm

submaniac wrote:

Ahem, told you it would work. :wink:

Trust me, have been doing this a long time. If you want all the scratches completely gone, keep on rubbing. If you get more scratches later, you can take them out the same way later. The finish on a modern stratocaster (as opposed to the vintage with the nitrocellulose lacquer) is extremely thick. You can keep on rubbing the scratches out for a long time without having to worry about going through the finish. I tried my hand at refinishing an actual Fender body with an electric sander--and it still took me a couple days to get through it because it is so thick.

Any suggestions an what works with nitro?

submaniac · **Joined:** Sat Sep 26, 2009 12:11 pm **Posts:** 22

Shredd6 wrote:

Any suggestions an what works with nitro?

This will also work with nitro, HOWEVER be careful and be gentle. Do it by hand. Do not go crazy with rubbing. Do not use a machine or buffer to do it. Nitro is alot more delicate than the plastics.

gldfshkpr · **Posted:** Fri Oct 02, 2009 9:30 pm

Quote:

Hi submaniac: you gave great advice and it worked a treat. Neat!

The one bit I'd politely disagree with is what I underlined. Fender's polyurethane and polyester finishes are not the same thing at all. The polyester on MIMs is indeed very thick, the urethane often much less so.

In fact, looking at gldfshkpr's photo here, it almost seems as if the finish is sinking into the grain where the light is catching it in the upper left corner of the pic, doesn't it? If that's right then that is very thin indeed for a plastic based finish - like on the front of an acoustic.

So just a word of caution to gldfshkpr: when chasing the last traces of those scratches don't be tempted to go too far and rub right through the clearcoat. That would be a pain after all this success!

Cheers - C

Point well taken Ceri. I should add; to clarify. All I did was rub the ScratchX on with a micro fibre towel and wipe off. A buffer was not needed. It couldn't have been easier. In fact, the area I rubbed seems a tad smoother than the rest of the body. I might just go ahead and polish up the rest of the guitar!

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