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Post subject: Neck smootheness...
Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 11:34 am
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Let's say that I play for about 5 - 6 hours of guitar everyday (on my stratocaster)..

How long would it take for the neck to become just a little tiny "of lack" smooth???

Because I look forward to it! :D


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Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 2:26 pm
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Hi, FredeJyllMusic. It will probably take quite a while; however, you can accelerate the process by gently rubbing the back of the neck with a steel wool pad. Don't go crazy with it--just rub it enough to rough up the finish a bit. 8)

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Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 3:12 pm
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How many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie pop.....i simply don't know. do you want it a little worn, or are you trying to keep it smooth? Personally, i think relicing is all about the story behind it. This dent came from this, this wore from my arm being here, etc. I just don't understand why people want something pre-reliced. when it came time for me to buy my first american strat i wanted it brand spanking new and glossy, looking like it just came off the build bench. i can't wait to tell my kids one day about when daddy did something stupid to make this specific mark, or about how daddy played this one so hard the neck completely wore out in this section. but that's just me.............if it is about feel and you want the gloss gone, go with what russianracehorse said with the steel wool, but a very fine grain. take your time and don't over do it......by under rubbing it, you can always go back and rub it more, but overdoing it could ruin your neck.


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Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 5:58 pm
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Another thing you can do for playability is to lightly sand the finnish off the back of the neck and apply light coats of light Tung Oil, or Birchwood Casey Gunstock oil, first by hand rubbing the finish and then buff it to a satin lustre with 0000 steel wool. You'll want to repeat this process about 4-5 times before calling it good, and it does wear out every 3-4 years. but nothing else feels like it and you get better protection than playing a raw neck. the oil will keep out some of the hand funk as opposed to bare wood. Note: this is a functional modification as opposed to replicating a well-used instrument. People can call it faky, but play one once and you'll want all your necks like this. :)

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Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 7:38 pm
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It's too subjective to answer readily, much like like the old sage about, "How much wood would a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?"

An objective appraisal needs to define at least some of the variables. For example:

What is the minimum qualification for declaring a piece of wood "chucked"?
How large is the woodchuck?
How large are the pieces of wood to be chucked?
Are they in the woodchuck's immediate proximity, or must the woodchuck travel to get some of the wood to be chucked?
Is the woodchuck union or non-?
And....


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