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Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 6:57 pm
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cvilleira wrote:
Martian wrote:
cvilleira wrote:
JSJH wrote:
So the pole pieces are friction fit, not epoxied in place? Interesting....

Thats the wax from when you pot the pickups you start pushing the poles in or out with force you will need to repot the pickup. You loosen them and you will start getting weird microphonics! The wax is there for a reason.


There is no need to repot the pickup. With these particular pickups, Just like the polepiece screws on a full sized humbucker, the magnets are isolated from the coils which in fact, is what makes them adjustable. If you want, you can give a quick burst of heat from a hair dryer to the adjusted polepiece(s) just to resolidify the wax but again, the coils remain untouched and unstressed, consequently, they will not become microphonic by any means.

First you have to make sure the pickup is waxed, many now days have been poted with epoxy or a plastic filler. If thats the case forget it and if its wax and a older pickup it will crack even with a hairdryer now the newer wax potted pickups that have had a small amount beeswax added may not
the beeswax is supposed to make the pickup last longer without the cracking problem. Either way you are shortening the play and stability of that pole without repotng it. Makes you think they should all have screw adjustable pole pieces. That would just add another issue for people to have problems with at adjustment time. Good for some of us though!!!!


I definitely see where you're coming from here. You have several not only valid, but essential points. I should have been a bit more succinct:

In John's partticular situation, his pickups are relatively new and by specific model are wax potted with the beeswax ratio to control the shrinkage. In terms of single coils in general, this should never be presumed as an, "across the board" thing which obviously includes how the polepieces on this particular model of pickups can be manipulated. Trying this remedy with other seemingly similar models may very well require repotting or at worst may outright destroy the pickup's coil.

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Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 7:03 pm
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JohnWhirl wrote:
Martian (and any others that may have done this),

In order to make the said adjustment, do I need to take the pickguard off to make the adjustments? I've never done that before, and am just kind of curious how to do it. Do I need to loosen my strings? How is the input jack connected, and do I need to worry about that in removal?

Any other advice, tips would be great! Thank you so much!

blessings!


John,

Yes and yes. The input jack as far as you are concerned for this procedure is irrelevant.

You have to loosen the strings enough to lift the pickguard up and off the guitar which includes all the components underneath the pickguard being able to clear the body and then, being able flip the pickguard over. You will have more room to work if you remove the pickguard and flip it over all from the high E string side, carefully monitoring that the strings don't get caught on the polepieces themselves or the pickups' height adjustment screws.

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Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2009 10:12 pm
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Lets just say a pickup made using 2 piece Flatwork bobbin (Fender) is different then a pickup made using a plastic bobbin.
There is also a difference between a Slug pole piece and a Magnetic Pole piece.
A slug or a screw goes down through the bobbin ( most are plastic ) to the flat magnet across the bottom.
A two piece flatwork pickup will use 6 magnetic poles ( alnico 5, 3 what ever Fender) held in place by the flatwork. Staggard poles will be different sizes within the flatwork. I have rewound both and never seen a flatwork pickup that had plastic tubes for the magnets between flatwork. Maybe its because they were all old ones.

These things are hard to explan to people most don't realise the different ways they are made using a bar magnet or rod magnets. What it means and how to wind the coil, to pot the pickup, Tap the coil, brush wax it ect.ect.

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