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Post subject: my Gilmour black part-o-caster
Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 8:27 pm
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ok, so i still cant play but i have built my black strat. it has a 3 piece alder body, a Japanese neck, bone nut, self made sustain block, tonerider pups in neck and middle, duncan ssL-5 in the bridge, vintage frets, vintage amber tint, and Nitro finish on neck and body. the bridge has the import string/screw spacing. i just came across a fender bridge with fender stamped saddles and the American wider string spacing. my question is; is it worth installing the wider string bridge? is it a little easier to play up the neck? and how difficult is it? i allready picked up 1/8" hardwood dowl rods from Home Depot. i figured i could just run an 1/8" bit through the ecisting holes and insert the dowl with wood glur and drill new holes. how hard is alder? is it comparable to oak? i dont want my bit to walk on me.

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Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 11:19 pm
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Beautiful! Beats paying 4 G's for the signature version. Great work. Was thinking of doing a Gilmour inspired guitar, but maybe someday. Any plans installing the toggle switch?


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Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 4:31 am
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oh its there! kinda hard to see.

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Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 4:55 am
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:shock: Wow. Got a big enough capacitor in there?

Nice guitar by the way!

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Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 5:04 am
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LOL, it was tight. the cap came out of an old tube tester. the date on the batery inside that tube tester was dated "installed 1945"!! its coated in bee's wax. the value has probably drifted but the hype about different caps sounding different is true. i tried a current cap and it sounded lifless!!


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Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:53 am
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pretty nice looking guitar! I think Gilmour's is the easiest replica out there to make these days.

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Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 12:09 pm
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Location: Houston, Texas
Looks great! :D

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Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 2:18 pm
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reg, alder is much softer than oak.(20year cabinetmaker) Just be sure and use a brad-point bit and the bit won't walk on you. 8) Mike

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Post subject:
Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 7:43 pm
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so should i not use a hardwood dowell? some if not all of my new holes will be in both the body and dowell, i dont want the bit to avoid or go toward the harder/softer wood. has anyone actually done this before?


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