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Post subject: String tension tight even with high floating trem
Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 11:34 am
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String tension tight even with high floating trem, i dont get it, any sugestions?


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Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 11:44 am
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Not really understanding the question. Do you mean string or springs. If it's the springs you may need to add another spring or tighten the claw. If you are talking about the strings I really don't understand the problem. I'll be glad to help if I can. :)

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Post subject: String tension tight even with high floating trem
Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 11:54 am
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ive had the claw almost all the way tight and almost all the way loose and the trem is even really really hard to pull on even a little ive even messed with the pivot posts. i actually believe it could be defective or something the strings and springs are tight


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Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 12:03 pm
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Can you post a picture of the guitar (the bridge, and the tremolo cavity); that might make it easier for the folks here that know about tremolo systems to help you out.


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Post subject: Re: String tension tight even with high floating trem
Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 12:07 pm
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darkstar44 wrote:
ive had the claw almost all the way tight and almost all the way loose and the trem is even really really hard to pull on even a little ive even messed with the pivot posts. i actually believe it could be defective or something the strings and springs are tight


You're still not getting across the essence of your problem. Nobody understands what you're talking about.

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Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 12:15 pm
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1) Add or remove trem springs to get the "trem resistance" to where you want it. Then...
2) Tighten or loosen the claw screws to achieve your 1/8" float (or if you go 'no float', tighten or loosen so that the bridge is flush against the body).

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Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 12:16 pm
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Some strats strings do feel more tense than others. I notice it particularly with my deluxe. Different manufacturers and different gauge strings make some difference. for awhile i used 10s on one guitar 9s on another to get them feeling similar.

Loosening springs will never loosen tension in the strings. It will just cause the strings to go flat and require retuning which puts the tension back in them. scale length plays more of a part in the tension of the strings. That varies from guitar to guitar, no two are exactly the same. I suspect thats what makes the difference from guitar to guitar.

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Post subject: deluxe
Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 12:27 pm
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yes the guitar is a deluxe i guess i could try 9's but i dont think i ever have becuase most people say they have no tone at all but i think i could give it a shot. thank you.


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Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 12:32 pm
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Dont listen to 'most people'. 'Most people' dont know anything.

'Find out for youself what works' is usually the better option.

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Post subject: deluxe
Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 12:35 pm
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i was curious do u know if your pivot post are screwed all the way down on your deluxe? and also i have a stripped truss rod nut and stew mac wants about 200 for the the kit to take it out but im gonna try a local guitar shop or luthier and see if they have the tool.


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Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 3:09 pm
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I use 9s on mine and itis fine. I do it because I am 63 years old and the hands aren't what they use to be. But once set up it sounds nice.
Good Luck


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Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 3:20 pm
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My pivot posts are raised a little bit. Both my custom classic and deluxe have the 2 point trem. The custom classic was perfect when i got it, the tremposts were raised just enough to see a gap between the trems base plate and the face of the scratchplate/pickguard. I had problems with the deluxe and set it to roughly the same height as the custom classic. Hey presto problem gone. I dont really know what purpose the pivot post heights matter although i know they are crucial, so i dont mess with them much.

Just measured both guitars are 1/16th from the face of the body to the top of the baseplate.

Hopefully someone will educate me as to the importance of pivot post height.

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Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 3:35 pm
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On your truss rod issue.

I would definately take it to a authorized repair person. Then if they balls it up presumably you will get a fender replacement neck at their cost.

Looks a tricky procedure to me, not something i'd attempt.

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Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 3:51 pm
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What brand and gauge of strings are you using? Some strings are made to be high tension.

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Posted: Sun May 17, 2009 4:17 pm
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nikininja wrote:
My pivot posts are raised a little bit. Both my custom classic and deluxe have the 2 point trem. The custom classic was perfect when i got it, the tremposts were raised just enough to see a gap between the trems base plate and the face of the scratchplate/pickguard. I had problems with the deluxe and set it to roughly the same height as the custom classic. Hey presto problem gone. I dont really know what purpose the pivot post heights matter although i know they are crucial, so i dont mess with them much.

Just measured both guitars are 1/16th from the face of the body to the top of the baseplate.

Hopefully someone will educate me as to the importance of pivot post height.

I just read a really good piece on the relationship between saddle height height, tremelo baseplate height and string tension. The goal is to have your saddles in the proper position as to not increase string tension too much. Case in point, I was setting up a Jackson Dinky from scratch(completely disassembled) which has a 2 pivot tremelo very similar to the unit on the MIA Strats. I was trying to acheive 4/64" string height as measured at the 17th fret with a capo on the first fret. As I raised the saddles to get the proper string height, I noticed the string tension was increasing. The saddle height adjustment screws started to recede into the saddles, so I was almost at the limit of adjustment there. So I went the other direction. I set the two E strings just a hair above the trem basesplate, set up the saddles in a 12'' radius, and acheived the 4/64" string height at the 17th fret by raising the whole tremelo with the 2 pivot posts. The string tension was MUCH lower. I can't give you the physics behind the whole thing, but if the saddle is raised up to the point that the break over angle is steep, it will increase string tension. It seems that as the string comes up thru the trem block, and runs up over the saddle, the less steep the angle, the less string tension there is. I compared this guitar with my favorite Strat, a '72 RI, and lo and behold, the E string saddles on the '72 RI are very close to the trem base plate, and the low string tension allows nice easy bends even with .011 strings. Hmmmm....
I tried to explain this the best I can, so I hope it makes some sense.


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