I know the Eric Clapton signature model has a blocked trem. I haven't had the opportunity to take a look at one and see how they have it blocked. Will some of you lucky bastards that own EC's let me know how they have the trem blocked.

Right now I just have 5 springs on my guitar to make sure the trem doesn't move, but I want a permanent way to block the trem.

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2005 Fender American Stratocaster W/Seymour Duncan Hot Rails in bridge and Seymour Duncan SSL-5 in neck.
1995 Fender American Standard Stratocaster
Line 6 Spider II 150 watt head W/Ampeg 4x12 Cab
Laney Pro-Linebacker PL65R

Hi deepindigo114: I don't own an EC and I don't block my trem. However, a few weeks ago someone else was having trouble understanding it and I did this little diagram for him which might help you too.

Take a block of wood (hence the phrase "blocked trem") of approximately the dimensions indicated. Insert it thin edge first between the metal trem block and the back of the cavity, so that it wedges in there and stops the trem from moving.

Simple as that: you now have a blocked trem.



Does that help?

Cheers - C

Everyone should have one of those blocks, exactly like Ceri's diagram.Even if oyu don't want to leave it in and block your Strat. I have a slightly different sized one for Floyd Rose Trems too.

When you do a set up, with the strings a bit loos put the block in behind the trem, tune up a bit, loosen the trem claw screws, so that the string tension holds the block in place, and the springs are out of the picture.

Do your set up, as per your manual. As the last step, have your guitar face up, so you access the trem cavity from beneath.slowly and evenly tighten the trem claw screws, just until the block falls out. This is the exact point that your trem springs tension takes over control of the bridge, from the block and string tension, and your floating trem is in perfect balance.And that size block , assures the bridge floats at the factory correct angle, if oyu don't like that angle, oyu'll need to change the taper of the block a bit.

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I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet.

The Clapton Stratocaster is set up such that the bridge is flush to the guitar top. It has a 5 spring vintage trem system. In my '89 Clapton a rectangular piece of wood 6 cm long x 4 cm highx 1cm thick sits snuggly in the space between the back of the trem block and the back wall of the trem cavity. It is not tapered in the fashion of Ceri's drawing. In this fashion, the assembly does not float nor can it be actuated. It has the overall effect of a hardtail but it seems that Eric felt the quality of the sound of the Strat was better in this fashion that from solid wood.

You might ask a local vendor to pull the back plate off the guitar so you can see for yourself.

Have done that with Strats of other time periods, I can tell you that the thickness of that block will vary with the thickness of the type of trem block on the guitar, and these block thicknesses certainly do vary.

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"Another day in paradise!"

What a brilliant tip. I never thought of using a block like that for trem setup. I've always stuffed playing cards inbetween the trem and cavity wall when re-stringing. To get back to pitch quicker.

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No no and no

......but you can't play poker with a block of wood.

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"Another day in paradise!"

Dunno if you get a few pieces the same size you can carve card values into them.
Poker is slightly too advanced for me. Snap is more my level.

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No no and no

Ha! Good observation.

The taper on the block in my diagram comes from dimensions recommended by one of Fender's factory set up guys, Albert Garcia, for doing exactly the set up process Twelvebar is describing.

Didn't know the specific dimensions used on the EC Sig: one more interesting morsel of information learned on this Forum!

Thanks - C

All kinds of good info on these forums, but unlike Ceri (and his perfect memory) I can never retain and retrieve it from the old memory banks when needed!

Ooo, Hop. In light of recent, uh... discussions, I feel I should point out that Ceri's memory is heavily supplimented with a row of books and back copies of magazines. Not to mention the internet, that we all have in front of us!

(Though the Frizzle Fry - Primus one I did know without looking - which surprised nobody more than me!)

- C

Perhaps the taperd block is better suited to american standard/deluxe trem blocks. The clapton block should be a little different being a 6 point trem. Modern trems have a shaped inertia block vintage trems have a straight one.

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No no and no

The taper in the block is there, to get the right float for the bridge. I use the same block on both a 2 point and a 6 point bridge, and to me it seems to be right for both. I think Doc has to be right (because he always is,) That it is made so the bridge sits flush to the body. I am going to make a block to his specs, and test it out. I love this site, you learn new stuff all the time!!

I learned about the block from a friend's older brother who worked for many many famous musicians. (Since I have seen t mentioned in a couple different sources, including Dan Erlewine's excellent books.)he was visiting my friend, and set up our guitars one time, and that, after having mine almost wrecked earlier by an incompetent tech made me learn how to do it myself. In fact that was the one and only time I have been happy with someone else's set up of my guitar. Its funny how many little things there are you can do to sped the job up, while improving the accuracy of your setup.

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I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet.

12B like i said the 6point trem wouldnt need a angled timber block as the trem block is straight. The side of the tremblock on standards/deluxes is angled/shaped on the side where a timberblock would sit. A timberblock would therefore require a angled side to get a decent ammount of contact.
It may just be me but i cant see the point of setting the float on a trem your going to block. I fully see the need for a wedge when changing strings though. As i said before i use playing cards on the other (spring)side of the tremblock to keep my bridge angle the same without strings fitted.

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No no and no

I should read more carefully, I have only used it when changing strings, and floating the bridge. I will make one to the specs ZZdoc posted, and try blocking it.

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I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet.

...Which is where I got my Albert Garcia reference (above).

To taper or not to taper. Though the tapered block was specifically recommended for setup use, I'd have thought it might be good for permanent blocking too. The block ZZDoc describes will work - provided the cavity and everything are made precisely to dimensions that match it.

That may be the case on an EC Sig from upper regions of the catalog. But I'm wondering if a taper would be useful to accommodate slight variations in manufacturing, differences between models, etc - allowing for a margine of adjustment? Just push it in till it reaches the right point.

Purely theoretical, far as I'm concerned. I'd hate to block off my whammy shimmer!

Cheers - C