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Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 10:54 am
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I prefer the 6 point, It definitly has a different tone. A year ago i would have said the 2 point because you can set it up to allow more tremolo travel. But tone wise, the 6 is better IMO. I compared the bridge pup on mine (6) with the same bridge pup (2) on a pretty identical strat, same strings and all, and there is a noticeable difference.


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Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 2:13 pm
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BigJay wrote:
And BTW....for all who commented....I never said the 6pt bridge is known to "rip away" or "break off" the guitar. The 6 screws in the 6pt bridge are not to be completely tightened....hense the tolorance for the tremolo action. However, this action can put stress on the screws and the wood holding them, especially if they are not uniformly tightened. Thus, the wood can become stripped, "in theory".


Nah, no way the wood "strips" unless you take an air wrench and torque the screws until they spin out. No way.

By the way the tension is distributed among six points instead of two so each, while smaller, handles less.

More contact between the bridge and the body = better transmision of body vibrations to the strings and vicea versa. I can't honestly prove the improvement in tone, like I said before Beck gets awesome tone from a floating 2 point. So for me it comes down to looks and feel.

To me the Fender 2 point trem is a poor compromise between the original Fender Strat bridge and a Floyd Rose.


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Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 10:17 pm
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It appears most players prefer the six-point bridge. I prefer it too although the Players Strat comes with a two-point. I like both the American Vintage 62 Strat and the Classic 60's but they come with 7.25" radius necks. Even after scalloping I may not really like those sharp necks. I've had them before and they are sharp.

The advantage the Players Strat has is it's 12" radius neck. I suppose another option is to try to pick up a Classic Players neck and put it on the Classic 60's or American Vintage 62.


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Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 12:08 am
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BigJay wrote:

Here is tip.....There are a couple Ebay vendors who buy model year closeout Strats, strip them down and sell the parts. They make their buys late in the year. Thus, supply is way up and prices are down. Today, there are much fewer parts available online and those are more expensive. So....buy your parts in December!!!! Sell in June???


I do a lot of buying from one of them. I just got a set of Eric Johnson tuners and Road Worn input jack & plate as well as road worn 50's trem from one. Total cost? $115!!! I'll post pics when the whole thing is done and assembled :)

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Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 5:44 am
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Hey, People -

I'm the "OP" and I'm still here. My questions were answered (and then some!), so I'm just enjoying all the knowledge/info you all are posting. Thanks.

As for building your own, has anyone out there ever built an archtop or semi-hollow? I saw that Warmoth has semi-hollow bodies and apprpriate neck blanks.

DC


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Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 6:03 am
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BigJay wrote:
If you dont want any tremolo, you should buy a "hard tail" model that just screws down to the body. Check out the Robert Cray Strats for an example.


Keep in mind Clapton blocks his trem. he says thetrem block is a vital component in the strat sound. That said Cray has massive tone with his hardtail.

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Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 6:09 am
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BigJay wrote:
I suspect many would argue that the 2pt is superior, but there are probably just as many out there that say they have no troubles with their 6pt.


Yep. I'm both of those!

Cheers - C


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Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 7:04 am
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BigJay wrote:
... I was at the Alpine Valley concert where Clapton, Cray and SRV shared the stage....and SRV died ...

A moment of silence, please ... :(
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Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 11:41 am
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[quote="357mag"]It appears most players prefer the six-point bridge. I prefer it too although the Players Strat comes with a two-point. I like both the American Vintage 62 Strat and the Classic 60's but they come with 7.25" radius necks. Even after scalloping I may not really like those sharp necks. I've had them before and they are sharp.

I didnt really care for the 7 1/4 on mine, and was replacing it with a flatter, but I got to like it at the lower frets for chording. I refret it with 6105 fret wire, which is narrow like the vintage, but higher, and i had them dressed so the the higher up the neck, they flattened out a bit to a 10" in a compound. ALthough the fretboard is still at 7 1/4. I tried the 12" and didnt care for it, for me it was a bit too flat.


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Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 8:56 pm
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357mag wrote:
So the two-point bridge will always float? Or can you set it up so it's flush with the body?


See my comments in the 'blocked trem' post on this page :wink: The 6 pont trem is consistent with the whole idea as well. :wink:

Doc

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