Theres plenty i just took measurements for the offsets then removed the earvana. I should get 2 maybe 3, 1 piece compensated nuts out of this before it thins out too much.

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Ok bit of a dilema that could use some input opinions, before i go any further.

I measured the offsets needed by basicaly dividing the top shelf of the earvana into 3 pieces, tuning the string to the absolute correct pitch (thankyou strobosoft) then fretting the guitar at the first fret, check on tuner again and reposition shelf section till the open string and fretted note were both within 1 cent. Then measure from the first fret back to the shelf of the nut.
What i've come to later realize is that the saddles are set to the stock earvana. Now i'm pretty sure that saddle adjustments dont effect much past the 4/5th fret.

Have i made a near fatal error?

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Ok i set about carving the bone. I need quite a oversized bit to allow for the extra carving. Here it is with 2 flat edges 90degrees to eachother.



Heres a drawing with measurements of the offsets needed to get it to compensate correctly. I just discovered i've access to a CNC machine. I may get it cut on that.



The numbers above the string names are the crucial ones.

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Here we go progress atlast. The shelfnut basic shape is cut. Heres the bone, shelf and tools used so far.


Heres the shelfnut basic shape. Sorry my camera skills are sadly lacking



Now i need to find a decent way to shape the 9.5" radius curve to the bottom of the nut and the underside of the shelf.

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Hi Niki: just catching up after a busy couple of days... Looking good so far. How does that bone smell as you saw it? Try working it on a belt sander: now that really smells bad! Ew...



I have a suggestion on that. For a concave radius just stick a piece of sandpaper with doublesided tape onto the top of your fingerboard between the low frets (where there's space). Immediately you have a radiused sanding block.

For the underside of the shelf that's more tricky, because you can't get at it with a radiused block. In that case I think you just have to pencil the correct curve onto it (from a radius gauge or whatever) and then carefully carve it out by eye on an electric sharpening wheel.

I can imagine jigs for doing the job, but it ain't worth the effort of making one unless you were planning to turn these out by the hundred...

Watching with great admiration. Stick with it, man!

Cheers - C

I'll followed your double sided sticky tape to fretboard idea and just shape the bottom of the nut, makes perfect sense. Im going to have to trial and error the shelf part.

This one is going to be a strictly first attempt so i'm not too fussed should i mess it up (aside from the hours of sanding and sawing). It will serve well as a template for cutting future models. I cut this from the bone way too big and consequently made a lot of work for myself.

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I have a good friend that designs motors for deep sea vehicles. He has all kinds of CNC machines and assures me that we can turn out a couple of thousand of these a day. This one is strictly a personal goal. I cant see bone or whatever material making too much difference in tone on fretted notes, so hopefully no more burning calcium smell .
I have tonight made things harder for myself by taking too much off the top of the shelf section. I reckon i can still get it done ok but those slots wont be deep.
Anyhow time for the slot saw now.

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ok ready to shape the front and have it drawn on the front of the guitar. So its 8 cans of carling and the radio in the back garden whilst i get to work.



I love these summer nights.

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Ok here we have it in place and nearly finished.





All it needs now is the edges around the back and side smoothing/rounding and a final polish ontop. I just couldnt wait to try it out once i had it cut to size. Initial signs are good. Its holding equal temperament across the fist 4 frets well. I cant hear any difference between bone and plastic on open strings though.

Going to be a while before i do another one. I'm sick of the smell of bonedust and the endless sanding and filing.

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Like I said Nick my Hats off to ya for this job Mate. Some under taking

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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.

Thomas Jefferson

When it is done, you will be glad you did it! The first time I ripped a guitar completely apart and installed new electronics (pickups, pots, caps), it took many tries and burnt switch and pots tabs to get it right. Finally, I got it right. No guitar ever sounded so sweet!

One thing that's for sure, you'll know how to do the next bone nut a lot faster!

CV watch this space in about a year mate. Got some great ideas running around. Compensated bone tele saddles being one. Getting a prettier shape inbetween offsets on the nut is another.

RCB, the next one is getting cut by CNC machine. I'm not fool enough to go through this again. I dont think i'll ever forget the smell of hot bone. .

This one is fitting well, no glue needed. It sounds sweet, i did a decent job of measuring the offsets even if i do say so myself. I did have to move the low E and G saddles back half a turn to get 12th fret intonation right. Looks like i took a smidgen too much off them.
Cheers guys.

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Exactly: RESPECT!

So the breaking points are pretty much in the same places as on the Earvana, is that right? But a nice curvy edge instead of Earvana's jagged one...?

Anyhow: like most here (but not all) I've never been near a CNC machine. Many of us would be very fascinted indeed to hear about the process of programming that machine to cut these the way you want. I wonder how long it'll take to set up? And how precisely you'll need to prepare the blanks beforehand?

This thing ain't over. Please continue the story for us!

Kudos to you, Nikininja...

Cheers - C

The offsets are close to the earvana but slightly different. The A string for instance is set much further towards the tuners. On the earvana its stepped out from the low E not in. Also the B string is far too near the first fret on the earvana.
Here it is


As far as CNC programing goes its all out of my hands. Theres far more experienced people than me available to sort that out.

If i'm allowed i'll get a few snaps of the process. Tele mods next.

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Did the tele too.



Notice its very different to the strat. No doubt due largely to the 3 saddle bridge. Only took 3 and a half hours as opposed to three and a half days like the first one

Strat2004, if you read this. I hope in october you will play one of these guitars and accept a complimentary nut too.

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