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Post subject: warped / twisted neck
Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 3:29 pm
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A warped or slightly twisted neck will make it difficult to optimize the set-up ofa guitar.

Exactly how do you identify a very slight twist in a guitar neck? Is there a rigorous way of measuring a twist, besides the very subjective method of looking along the neck?


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Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 3:45 pm
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yep you need to make a fretboard straightedge, like this
Image

Put it on one side of the guitar (say the bass side)and set the truss rod so that the fretboard (not the frets) is perfectly straight. Move it across to the treble(in this case) side and see if it will seesaw, indicating a high point. Or check for a gap underneath. If its a gap measure it with a set of feeler gauges. If its a rise re set the neck so that the treble side is flat and measure the gap under the bass side.

Or for a quick test just sight down the position dots on the fretboard. Use a straightedge on them if you like. They should be pretty much perfectly inline on a untwisted neck.

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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 1:28 am
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Thanks Nikininja, where do I get a fretboard straight edge?


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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 1:31 am
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I made mine for £3.50. Just bought a aluminium straightedge off the local market cut it to size then marked the frets on it and cut em out.

Stewmac sell em for $72.

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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 1:32 am
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Thanks


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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 8:25 am
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Just to complicate things further......

Is is possible to quantify the degree of twist in a guitar with a scalloped neck?

I've taken a Malmsteen strat back to the shop I got it from because the difference in neck-relief between the top and bottom E string is a great as the total neck relief for a guitar of the finger-board radius.

i.e. The top E is .50mm and the bottom E .10! This measurement was, of course, taken using a capo to fret all the strings at the first fret, and the E strings held against the top fret, measuring under the 8th fret with a feeler gauge. The difference is .40mm, the same as the TOTAL neck relief should be on a 9.5" radius fretboard. This means that if I set it up correctly for the bottom E at .30mm, the top will be .70mm; and if I set it for the top at .30mm , the bottom E will not have any relief at all!! Surely this indicates a slight twist? The frets look evenly set and are not worn at all. So could there be another explanation?

The owner of this shop, whilst initaily acceting this problem when I demonstrated it to him, now tells be that his 'world famous' luthier, who purportedly looks after Gary Moore's guitars, has looked at it and cannot find any problem!! I'm going down there on Friday and I can see a big argument on the horizon.

I suppose I could take it to Chandlers in London for a written report, at my expense, but why should I have to?

Suggestions and comments please people!


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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 8:31 am
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I suppose the only way in which to test twist of the neck on a scalloped neck would be to remove the frets or place a straghtedge along the side of the inlay dots.

Its entirely possible that your neck isnt twisted and that the frets just arent uniform in radius across the width of the board.

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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 8:36 am
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Charlie Chandler would put it on his Plek machine and tell you for sure - and you'd pay handsomely for the honor. Unless of course he's a Fender Authorised Dealer: have you rung him to ask?

Incidentally, regarding the Plek: a couple of issues back in Guitarist magazine is an article where John Suhr says he uses the Plek machine to help him dress the frets asymetrically so they are flatter on the treble side whilst more concave along the neck on the bass side. As if the guitar had more front bow - but only under the bass strings.

A high tech version of the fret dress Nikininja did recently on his Tele.

That Suhr fret dress would have the result of giving more action on the bass side where the strings have a wider arc of vibration. I guess it is conceivable that this Malmsteen Sig has the same thing, though I feel we'd have heard about it if it did. A question for Fender Customer Services, perhaps?

Meantime: if there is any doubt whatsoever about the integrity of your new guitar's neck insist upon it being changed. It doesn't cost the shop anything after all, aside from a phonecall to their Fender rep to order a replacement...

Cheers - C


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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:14 am
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Unfortunately this strat has the greater bend on the high E side! Funnily enough the chap on the phone I spoke to at Chandlers mentioned that unfortunaely this is usual way they twist, had been the other way I'd probably have a guitar that sets-up really great!

The chap who runs the shop is being strangely difficult about getting me a new neck, as you say it should be 'no skin off his nose' at all, providing he is a registerred Fender dealer, which he says he is!


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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:18 am
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nikininja wrote:
I suppose the only way in which to test twist of the neck on a scalloped neck would be to remove the frets or place a straghtedge along the side of the inlay dots.

Its entirely possible that your neck isnt twisted and that the frets just arent uniform in radius across the width of the board.


That did occur to me, but as I said, the frets look OK. Not much else I can do to check that I suppose.

Alarm beels should have rung when I noticed the wood gain in the neck is anything but straight.

I guess I won't let money burn a hole in my pocket next time!


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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:21 am
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place a straightedge along the fret inlays. Thats the easiest way to tell if your neck has twisted. I certainly wouldnt judge it on woodgrain. I've never seen straight grain on a neck.

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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:39 am
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nikininja wrote:
place a straightedge along the fret inlays. Thats the easiest way to tell if your neck has twisted. I certainly wouldnt judge it on woodgrain. I've never seen straight grain on a neck.


I don't quite understand, do you mean the fret markers on the side of the borard, but they are just one side?

I'm aware that wood grain is seldom straight, and I wasn't using that as a guide to neck twist, I simply meant that the grain on this neck, rather than being roughly straight and with the 'tree-rings' feathering-out down the middle of the back of the neck; is VERY wonky, the growth rings curve from the back of the neck toward the belly, and then back to the back again in an aproximate radius of 8 inches!! The grain also feathers out form one side of the neck to the other. It is not the sort of stable-grained wood that guitar necks are uusely made out of! That's why I'm not just prepared to sort out the problem by 'pleking', because the twist is likely to get worse!


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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:46 am
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No the fretboard inlays on the face of the fretboard.

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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:54 am
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nikininja wrote:
No the fretboard inlays on the face of the fretboard.

Thanks Nikininja, I'll try that.


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