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Post subject: converting vibrato strat to hard tail
Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 1:38 pm
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:?: I just purchased a new MIM SSS Standard Stratocaster. I am not really a vibrato system lover, as I do this with my fretting hand. I would like to convert my bridge to a "hard tail". What is the procedure and what components do I need. P.S. I am not interested in "bridge blocks" but a total conversion.


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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 1:47 pm
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Are you looking to fill in the body rout and refinish the guitar :?:

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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 1:48 pm
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cvilleira wrote:
Are you looking to fill in the body rout and refinish the guitar.
I would say, if he doesn't want a bridge block, he has no choice.

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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 2:12 pm
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Twelvebar wrote:
cvilleira wrote:
Are you looking to fill in the body rout and refinish the guitar.
I would say, if he doesn't want a bridge block, he has no choice.

Yep, Your right 12B I hope he knows what he is in for. Not an overnight job.

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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 5:08 pm
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Make sure the tremolo has all 5 springs installed; ensure that the 6 bridge plate screws are as snug as possible but allowing the tremolo plate to sit firmly flush on the body and lastly, tighten both tremolo claw screws as far as they will go. Once these tasks are accomplished, no way will that bridge move on its own. Best of all, its totally reversible and you don't have to get into all sorts of unnecessary projects.

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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 5:34 pm
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Martian wrote:
Make sure the tremolo has all 5 springs installed; ensure that the 6 bridge plate screws are as snug as possible but allowing the tremolo plate to sit firmly flush on the body and lastly, tighten both tremolo claw screws as far as they will go. Once these tasks are accomplished, no way will that bridge move on its own. Best of all, its totally reversible and you don't have to get into all sorts of unnecessary projects.

It seems the poster is not interested in do this or blocking the trem :shock:

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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:23 pm
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he's going to have to basically fill the trem cavity to do what he wants. that means fitting some wood, and filling around it. Creating a solid piece, and then carefully measuring and drilling for the new bridge. its a pretty big job.

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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:04 pm
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cvilleira wrote:
Martian wrote:
Make sure the tremolo has all 5 springs installed; ensure that the 6 bridge plate screws are as snug as possible but allowing the tremolo plate to sit firmly flush on the body and lastly, tighten both tremolo claw screws as far as they will go. Once these tasks are accomplished, no way will that bridge move on its own. Best of all, its totally reversible and you don't have to get into all sorts of unnecessary projects.

It seems the poster is not interested in do this or blocking the trem :shock:


I missed that last sentence of his. Thank you, I stand corrected.

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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:46 pm
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Martian wrote:
cvilleira wrote:
Martian wrote:
Make sure the tremolo has all 5 springs installed; ensure that the 6 bridge plate screws are as snug as possible but allowing the tremolo plate to sit firmly flush on the body and lastly, tighten both tremolo claw screws as far as they will go. Once these tasks are accomplished, no way will that bridge move on its own. Best of all, its totally reversible and you don't have to get into all sorts of unnecessary projects.

It seems the poster is not interested in do this or blocking the trem :shock:


I missed that last sentence of his. Thank you, I stand corrected.

Its not something you here to many wanting to do like that.

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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:59 pm
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That's a lot of work for something you can do by blocking the trem or just tightening the springs. My MIA is essentially a hard tail but in a few mins I can change it back to a trem (though I never do).

Good luck on the overhaul though.


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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 8:26 pm
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Hmmmm. I did a little poking around at Stew Mac, wondering if there might be a bridge that would fit over the top of the hole for the trem. Didn't see anything.

Then, I got to thinking, a substantial part of the Stratocaster's sound comes from the fact that the strings terminate in a sustain block (preferable a STEEL one). I know it's substantial because just changing from the stock, crummy sustain block to a vintage style steel block really makes the Strat sustain and ring.

Clapton can afford any guitar he wants, and he prefers to block the trem. Betcha if you asked him, he'd tell you the hardtail doesn't give him the traditional Strat sound.

I understand your motivation to make the guitar a hardtail. Nice, clean setup. MAYBE even a little more sustain. Maybe. You WILL however, change the sound of your guitar....it'll be less "Stratty".

Plus, it's a whole lot less hassle to simply adjust your bridge flush to the body and crank up the string tension. For forty bucks you can get a GFS trem with steel sustain block and steel saddles. If you don't hear a considerable change in tone...take up the drums / lol.


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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 6:42 am
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8)Thanks everyone for the info. I had no idea that the entire body cavity in the rear would have to be filled. Nor did I realize that it would substantially change the sound. So, I take it, the easiest way to arrive at solid bridge is to tighten the two "claw screws" down until the bridge is solid against the body. Currently the two claw screws are quite unevenly threaded into the body. That is, one is screwed in a lot deeper than the other. The claw is tilted, and my MIM only has 3 springs. Its brand new, thats the way it came. Also the solder job on that wire attached to the claw looks rather poor. What's that wire doing anyway. A ground? This is my first Strat. I pleed ignorance.

Thanks again.


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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 6:57 am
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Yes, ground is correct.

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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:17 am
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Hi oneal lane, welcome to the Forum.

Just for the record, here's an example of how to do the full conversion cvilleira and twelvebar are discussing (above):

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tht1.htm

Lotta work - and so easy to get wrong if your skills aren't as good as you think...

Some alternative possibilities if you really don't want to just block the trem:

There's the Tremol-No. I have no experience of it and can neither recommend nor advise against it:

http://www.tremol-no.com/

Kahler sell a hardtail that I believe can be sat over the top of a Strat's trem cavity:

http://www.wammiworld.com/u7330.html

If I understand right you may need the Kahler PL-2 conversion plate to go with that bridge:

http://www.wammiworld.com/Pl-2.html

I'm sure I remember seeing other trem-to-hardtail conversion kits, but I don't seem to be finding them right at this moment. All I'm coming up with is a page about this gentleman's patent for such a system:

http://www.faqs.org/patents/app/20080202311

Hmm. Thought provoking...

Anyway. Personally, I'd just block that trem in the Clapton style and get playing!

Good luck - C


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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:29 am
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Block the trem ala Clapton. Much easier procedure. it also doesn't alter the guitar, easily reversed with just a screw driver. i actually go through the process a couple times a year as part of my set-up, with the last step being the removal of the block. But I block it for all my adjustments(action, intonation etc.)

I have a block of maple I use. You'll need to sort of fit it by trial and error. No 2 trem cavities are exactly alike. Also I would add springs, you'll want all five, and screw the trem claw tight. I wonder if the springs act as a reverb tank!! :wink:

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