I wouldn't heat it !!!!!

How I straightened a guitar neck out in the past was to pull it from the body. completely loosen the trussrod nut and clamp it.

I made a clamp and caul rig. with a straight board, some blocks and couple clamps. I found this picture on the web, and it is much like what I did. Mine was long ago before the age of digital photography, and it never occred to me to document it.



The above guitar is a set neck, but I pulled the neck off my old guitar. i also don't really like the foam he has there, I used some shaped blocks of wood, with felt from a pool table glued to it,to protect the neck from the arms of the clamps.

I started out with only a little pressure, let it sit for a week, and checked it out, then repeated with allittle more pressure til I got the bow I liked. It took a LONG time. but it did work.do not over tighten, you want to work slowly. It is a pretty simple operation, just be careful, and work slowly. Don't expect to change the bow overnight.

PS Old Shooting Star where did you take it? I used to live in Edmonton, I bought my Strat at Cameron Guitars (now Avenue Guitars, on Whyte Ave.)

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I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet.

Thanks Twelvebar.

Seems like a safe way to do it. I'm definatlely gonna try this. Only difference is mine is humped so I would have to put appropriate blocks in the middle to push it down a bit.

(I wonder ......................... if I lightly ran a heat gun over it back and forth while it was clamped .................................... NO, DON'T GO THERE! I don't know what came over me! Slow and steady's the way to go, I'm sure.)

Thanks again.

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ca.1983 Larivee L-07
50s replica Tele kit
08 LP Studio-Wine Red
07 Squier Bullet Strat - MIC
94 Fender MB4 Bass
84 Squire Standard Strat - MIJ - black
19?? Samik "Artist" acoustic - "peacock"

Fender Superchamp XD
Crate B160XL Bass Combo

Did oyu see my editted in PS?

I used to live in Edmonton.

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I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet.

I have been reading your post Ceri and figuring out how exactly im going to do what it says, or if i dont understand something in it. i have a few questions I hope you dont mind answering.


but what do i adjust the relif to? if the fender measurements are not the most accurate, what can i use? On the ibanez, i used a playing card. if i could just slide the playing card between the string and the fret, without moving the string, the relif was correct, but thats way to little relif on a fender it seems.



no, im afriad i dont know how to check the correct cut at the nut, can you please elaborate.


once i get buzzes, do i start raising the strings at the bridge on the saddles, or adjust the neck relif again?

i know i posted this already, but just to keep things together, can you tell me if the below feeler guage and radius guage are the type i should be looking for?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Metric-Gap-Thicknes ... 1|294%3A50

http://cgi.ebay.ie/Radius-guage-set_W0Q ... 240%3A1318

I can see how to use the feeler guage, but cant see how to use a radius guage to set string height. i mean, if i know the fretboard radius, then cant i just set each string a set distance from the board at he 17 fret and they should follow the radius of the board?

No I didn't see the PS until after I replied.

I took it to Axe Music on Wayne Gretzy Drive (used to be Capillano Freeway). I think they used to be on White Avenue also, but they moved about 10 years ago or so. The guy there was quite helpful and seemed to know what he was talking about. Gave me good free advise, I think. He said it we be several hours labour at $50.00 an hour to do the refret/planing operation on it. It's one of those deals where you wonder if the guitar is worth it although I do like the guitar and it sounds good. It's my only electric six-string and I don't play enough to justify paying too much for a new one, especially now that I'm retired.

Do you know if Cameron Guitars is/was/actually started out as a smaller shop just run by one person with last name of Cameron? Reason I ask is in 1984 or 1985, I used to live in Northern Alberta and I came to the big city to by a "good" accoustic guitar. I brought a friend with me to get another objective opinion. One of the places we went to was "Cameron's Guitar repair" or something like that. I don't even remember if it was on Whyte Avenue, but I think so. I think his first name might have been Bob, but my memory is getting fuzzy. Anyhow, Mr. Cameron was a very helpful person and he steered me toward a used Larivee with built in piezio pickup under the bridge that he had in his shop. It was priced at $650.00 which was about 50% of the cost of an equivalent new one. I compared it to some quite a bit more expensive Martins and Gibsons, and it sounded great. I had kind of set my mind on a Martin. You know how you get something in your head. I remember my friend kept nodding his head as if to signal to me "Take it, you fool, that's the one for you." Well I did buy that guitar and I've never regretted it one bit. It has the most balanced tone you can imagine. I get compliments about it whenever I bring it out.

I'm going to have to go the Avenue Guitars and see if it's the same guy.

Small world, isn't it? How long ago did you move from here and where are you now?

(PS, hope I didn't bore the rest of you with my tale).

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ca.1983 Larivee L-07
50s replica Tele kit
08 LP Studio-Wine Red
07 Squier Bullet Strat - MIC
94 Fender MB4 Bass
84 Squire Standard Strat - MIJ - black
19?? Samik "Artist" acoustic - "peacock"

Fender Superchamp XD
Crate B160XL Bass Combo

Axe was there when I lived in Edmonton, moved away 10 years ago. in Calgary now.
yeah I think that was what Avenue Guitars started out as. I think it used to be close to where Axe is now, I think they moved to Whyte ave in the early 90's.. I think it is the same guy. I got my strat there in 94 anyway.

_________________
I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet.

Hi schmintan:

First things first. Back in the mists of time I used to have work done for me by a gentleman in the center of London. He's still there, I just rang him and his charge for a full setup, including fretwork if required, is £55 / €58.38. He's been in the biz since the '70s: his work is excellent.

I haven't the slightest doubt that equally good guys are to be found in Ireland and for a sensible cost. I'm sure your U2 fella is the tops, but at the price it would pay you to hop on a day return Ryan Air flight to London for a few quid and get the work done here.

I'm obviously not seriously suggesting you do that: just making the point about professional setup charges... Forum user Paulie is in the Dublin area (I believe): he may have a recommendation for you...?

Regarding the feeler gauges: so happens I was recently buying a new one myself. I found on UK Ebay a Draper set with 31 blades with imperial on one side, metric on the other (in the guitar world very handy to have both). Almost the same as this set:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DRAPER-26-BLADE-C ... 240%3A1318

Again, I'm sure you can find something like that on Irish Ebay, but if not it is available just over the water for a few Euros...

Your questions:

Adjusting the relief, I'd start off making it exactly Fender spec, as per this website. If that's not right for you it can be altered later, but honestly, they're suggesting 0.25 mm / .010 thou - if that ain't spot on for you it's pretty close. An excellent starting point. Set it to that and then forget about it for a while. (Remember to hold it in the playing position when taking the measurement. Gravity plays a part.)

Your playing card trick - well, that's exactly how to use the feeler gauge when you get it.

The nut: as the aforementioned luthier was just saying on the phone to me, the nut is either right or it's wrong. A handy way to check; capo the strings at the first fret and look at the gap between the bottom of the strings and the top of the third fret. Ideally, measure it with the feeler gauge. Now capo the strings at the third fret and then look at the gap between the bottom of the strings and the top of the first fret.

Those two gaps should be the same, string by string. If the second measurement is appreciably higher then the nut slots need lowering. If the strings are bottoming out on the first fret when capo'd at the third, then the nut is too low and needs shimming or replacing.

Both of those are unlikely on a new Deluxe, but now you know how to check. This check should be carried out after relief and action are set (in the previous steps in my earlier eight step procedure), because that affects the angle at which the strings travel over the third fret.

Lastly, you are right: the best way to get the radius of the strings spot on is to measure their heights accurately above the 17th fret (step 4.). The radius gauge is merely an aid. There's reasons someone might want the saddles to follow a different radius to the fingerboard and for that you need a gauge. But that is advanced trickery and doesn't bother us here.

I like these radius gauges because you don't need to remove the strings to measure a 'board:

http://www.stewmac.com/cgi-bin/hazel.cg ... RRENCY=EUR

But any will do, or you can easily make yourself one for free (Google for instructions).

Start off at Fender spec, setting the strings to 1.6 mm / 1/16" at the 17th fret. When the rest of the setup is finished if you then don't like the action start lowering the strings at the saddles, a little at a time. Check each string at each fret and also pick and strum them as per normal playing - after each adjustment on each string. As soon as buzzing starts just reverse the last adjustment.

That's pretty much it. Don't mess with the trussrod as a way of adjusting action unless you are sure you understand what you are trying to achieve. Trussrods are really about relief, not action.

That goes double for shimming. If the neck pocket is routed flat (as it definitely should be on a modern instrument) then frankly there is little likelyhood that you will need to shim. Raising the heel end of the fingerboard by shimming can actually introduce buzz at the high frets if done inappropriately.

You mention that your Ibanez has a flatter radius than the Fender, and of course this means that ultimately a slightly lower action is possible on the Ibanez. But the difference is tiny. You definitely do not have to be playing your Strat with a slide setup to avoid buzz. A comfortably low action is perfectly possible - always depending on how hard you play. Only you can answer that. Certainly, you should be able to get it very close to the Ibanez.

Last thing. The sequence is vital. You must set the relief first. Only then can you think about action at the 17th fret. And only after that can you adjust the intonation, set the pickup heights and check the nut (once you've made sure the nut is right you don't need to do it again). If you find yourself adjusting the trussrod/relief, start the whole process over and work it through.

A very long post indeed! I do hope it helps. Come back with questions if necessary...

Good luck - C

Can i have his contact details. I'd much rather pay £60 for a level and crown than do it myself.

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No no and no

Hi Niki; he's called Graham and he lives in a gruesome little underground cavern beneath the shop that is now called Music Ground in Denmark Street (used to be Andy's). His phone number is different than the shop's: 020 7813 1142.

If you mention me I doubt he'll remember who I am, cos it's been a long time, but he's the real deal and a gent with it.

That price mentioned includes crowning and tidying up the fret ends, but obviously is not for a refret...

I still get my Marshall re-valved on the second floor of that shop. Man, that's a cost that makes my eyes water every time, and keeps going up and up. One day you have to teach me re-biasing...

Cheers - C

now theres alot of advantages/disadvantages to all methods. Oscilloscopes are said to leave the map cold. Multimeters are said to be inaccurate. For the best part we as guitarists dont care much for exact dead center spot on accuracy of a electric field if the amp sounds good. I prefer mine cold most like em hot. For the reasons of personal preference i'd use this tool as a layman.
http://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/product_info.php/info/p471_Kit-Bias-Probe-Octal.html

Its going to get you in the correct (ish) area and you can finetune to your tastes by ear. Just keep your left hand in your back pocket when your poking a screwdriver around the trimpot. Your lefthanded aren't you? There will no doubt be a load of available information about stopping current travel across your heart in the event of a mishap. Heed it well mate if you go poking around.

I certainly know what you mean about re-valve costs. Pacific sound and light charge £300 for a 9 valve re-valve and bias. Hotrox are £50 less. Ever thought of trying watford valves? They've got a good rep.

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No no and no

See, right at the beginning there you started talking in Swahili...

It's like guitar wiring: I need someone to show me, then my neanderthal brain can get it.

Mind you, at the prices you're quoting suddenly Denmark Street don't sound so bad. Last time round a full revalve on my TSL122 cost £115 (swapping like for like on stock Marshall valves).

BTW, how on earth did you remember that I'm lefthanded, given that I play righthanded (in my photos)? Very impressed...

Cheers man - C

Incorrect spelling on the first line. It should read 'leaves the amp (not map) cold.

£115 for a re-bias i cant even buy valves for that. Your onto a winner.

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No no and no

Yeah, but I bet you use some swanky cryogenically treated valves, or NOS rediscovered in a warehouse in Kiev - or something. You have the ears for it.

I'm just bog standard Marshall issue valves. If I ever learn to meddle with the insides of my amps then I might start looking at the fancy stuff...

Back in the day I had a Ritchie Fliegler book on the subject. It started, "first take your cathode ray oscilloscope..." Uh-oh, I thought...

- C

Not at all i use anything and everything. I dont buy into the whole NOS rubbish. Valves have never been an exact science so i dont see how anyone could accurately reproduce something thats flawed. A friend used to take trips out to the Czech republic and come back with sackfulls of un named ecc83's,82's and 81's that we'd sift through. Non were really better than the other some just had more or less gain than others and therefore caused the amp to respond in different ways. A few were useless noisy but on the whole they were great valves. Certainly no different to anything sold by harma JJ GT Mesa or marshall. Infact theres only a handfull of valve maufacturing plants left in the world. All the above companies just buy them in and pair/quad them up. Of which i think GT had it best for value with their rating system so you could replace like for like and get much the same response. Mesa use it to but price themselves out of the water just for a bit of glass with mesa written on it that was made in china, russia or eastern europe.

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No no and no

http://www.expertvillage.com/video/4628 ... k-tilt.htm


I found this series of videos helpful when I set up my guitar for the first time. There are a series of videos but I would follow the sequence shown here

http://www.fender.com/support/setup_guides.php

Hope this helps. Its a starting point the rest is feel.

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With every mistake we must surely be learning..

Music is the space between the notes.