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Post subject: How do you reinforce a 3-bolt neck?
Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 6:01 pm
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My strat has a 3-bolt neck. I can easily shift the neck from side to side, affecting pitch and playability. Any ideas on how to keep the neck firmly attached to the body?


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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 6:03 pm
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I'm no expert, and this is just a carpenter's trick, but I would shim the sides with some wood glue or something.

The question is..intonation. Is the guitar in tune when bent up or down? Then you make your decision as to which side to shim. (wedge)

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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 6:45 pm
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Just as they tell you in books. It works!!!!
Take the neck and squirt some superglue in the holes and work it around. Do this several times waiting a hour or two between doing so that it cures. Then after its built up some and cured wax the screws and re attach the neck. That should hold the neck tight to the body and keep it from moving.

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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 6:52 pm
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cvilleira wrote:
Just as they tell you in books. It works!!!!
Take the neck and squirt some superglue in the holes and work it around. Do this several times waiting a hour or two between doing so that it cures. Then after its built up some and cured wax the screws and re attach the neck. That should hold the neck tight to the body and keep it from moving.


Top advice. Exactly what i needed for a stripped screwhole.

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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 6:55 pm
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Here's a fix I've been doing for years with 100% success:

I loosen the strings but do NOT remove them. I then remove the 3 screws holding the neck plate on (and the neck) while keeping the neck in the neck pocket the entire time. I then put the 3 screws back in WITHOUT the neck plate and retighten the screws SNUGLY but NOT as much as I would if the neck plate was on. Next, I'll retune the strings to say, C#, lower than E. Now, with decent string tension on the neck, I can adjust manually, the neck so that the strings line up perfectly, etc. I tighten the 3 neck screws just a hair more. Again, NOT as much as I would if the neck plate was on, checking once again that my alignment is the best it can be.

Looking at the imprint that was left by the now removed neck plate, where what would be under the plate, I drill a pilot hole for a 4th neck screw at around what would be approximately, "8"o'clock" if the neck plate imprint was a clock. I drill through the body and into the back of the neck. It is understood that the proper bit, drill depth and straightness of the hole have already been ascertained. Upon completion of this, I then countersink the new screw hole so that when I put in the now, 4th bolt, it will be level with the body and will perfectly flush up with the back of the neck plate, not making it bulge. I then screw this new 4th bolt in, thus snugging the neck up to the neck pocket as if the plate were on. I check that the head is not protruding and will not interfere with the neck plate. Once again, I loosen the strings and take out the 3 OEM screws. I then install the plate and the 3 OEM screws.

That's it. It's an invisible fix and the neck will be just as secure as an OEM 4 bolt. I even give it the "acid test": I grab it by the headstock and shake the guitar around, listening for any creaks but I've yet to ever hear one.

The only drawback (if you want to call it that) is, to a purist, he'd rather have his 1971 3 bolt neck swimming in the neck pocket because it's OEM rather than have it solidly seated for good but lose collector's value. In life, nothing is free.

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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:57 pm
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Martian wrote:
Here's a fix I've been doing for years with 100% success:

I loosen the strings but do NOT remove them. I then remove the 3 screws holding the neck plate on (and the neck) while keeping the neck in the neck pocket the entire time. I then put the 3 screws back in WITHOUT the neck plate and retighten the screws SNUGLY but NOT as much as I would if the neck plate was on. Next, I'll retune the strings to say, C#, lower than E. Now, with decent string tension on the neck, I can adjust manually, the neck so that the strings line up perfectly, etc. I tighten the 3 neck screws just a hair more. Again, NOT as much as I would if the neck plate was on, checking once again that my alignment is the best it can be.

Looking at the imprint that was left by the now removed neck plate, where what would be under the plate, I drill a pilot hole for a 4th neck screw at around what would be approximately, "8"o'clock" if the neck plate imprint was a clock. I drill through the body and into the back of the neck. It is understood that the proper bit, drill depth and straightness of the hole have already been ascertained. Upon completion of this, I then countersink the new screw hole so that when I put in the now, 4th bolt, it will be level with the body and will perfectly flush up with the back of the neck plate, not making it bulge. I then screw this new 4th bolt in, thus snugging the neck up to the neck pocket as if the plate were on. I check that the head is not protruding and will not interfere with the neck plate. Once again, I loosen the strings and take out the 3 OEM screws. I then install the plate and the 3 OEM screws.

That's it. It's an invisible fix and the neck will be just as secure as an OEM 4 bolt. I even give it the "acid test": I grab it by the headstock and shake the guitar around, listening for any creaks but I've yet to ever hear one.

The only drawback (if you want to call it that) is, to a purist, he'd rather have his 1971 3 bolt neck swimming in the neck pocket because it's OEM rather than have it solidly seated for good but lose collector's value. In life, nothing is free.
I really like this!! i have a friend with a 70's strat with a loose neck, I am gonna run that idea by him.

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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 5:54 am
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Twelvebar wrote:
Martian wrote:
Here's a fix I've been doing for years with 100% success:

I loosen the strings but do NOT remove them. I then remove the 3 screws holding the neck plate on (and the neck) while keeping the neck in the neck pocket the entire time. I then put the 3 screws back in WITHOUT the neck plate and retighten the screws SNUGLY but NOT as much as I would if the neck plate was on. Next, I'll retune the strings to say, C#, lower than E. Now, with decent string tension on the neck, I can adjust manually, the neck so that the strings line up perfectly, etc. I tighten the 3 neck screws just a hair more. Again, NOT as much as I would if the neck plate was on, checking once again that my alignment is the best it can be.

Looking at the imprint that was left by the now removed neck plate, where what would be under the plate, I drill a pilot hole for a 4th neck screw at around what would be approximately, "8"o'clock" if the neck plate imprint was a clock. I drill through the body and into the back of the neck. It is understood that the proper bit, drill depth and straightness of the hole have already been ascertained. Upon completion of this, I then countersink the new screw hole so that when I put in the now, 4th bolt, it will be level with the body and will perfectly flush up with the back of the neck plate, not making it bulge. I then screw this new 4th bolt in, thus snugging the neck up to the neck pocket as if the plate were on. I check that the head is not protruding and will not interfere with the neck plate. Once again, I loosen the strings and take out the 3 OEM screws. I then install the plate and the 3 OEM screws.

That's it. It's an invisible fix and the neck will be just as secure as an OEM 4 bolt. I even give it the "acid test": I grab it by the headstock and shake the guitar around, listening for any creaks but I've yet to ever hear one.

The only drawback (if you want to call it that) is, to a purist, he'd rather have his 1971 3 bolt neck swimming in the neck pocket because it's OEM rather than have it solidly seated for good but lose collector's value. In life, nothing is free.
I really like this!! i have a friend with a 70's strat with a loose neck, I am gonna run that idea by him.


I've been doing this since literally, the 3 bolts first came out and it works great.

One additional item worth noting: IF the tilt neck screw is actually being used to shim (offset) the neck from the body, this is one of the chief offenders which makes these 3 bolt neck/bodies shift around. If it is not engaged, nothing further is required. If it is, measure how much the tilt neck screw is offsetting the neck and use a 'conventional' shim per this measurement at the base of the neck pocket; disengage the tilt neck screw.

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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 6:05 am
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Martian wrote:
One additional item worth noting: IF the tilt neck screw is actually being used to shim (offset) the neck from the body, this is one of the chief offenders which makes these 3 bolt neck/bodies shift around. If it is not engaged, nothing further is required. If it is, measure how much the tilt neck screw is offsetting the neck and use a 'conventional' shim per this measurement at the base of the neck pocket; disengage the tilt neck screw.


Ah, that's a good point.

One more thought: if Guitarist1983 doesn't like the idea of installing extra screws in the neck joint I'm wondering if there is scope for side shimming the neck to firm it up? Either with a small piece of veneer if there's space enough (which in itself would be rather shocking) or with a thinner calling card, or even a thickness or two of paper?

Depends entirely on the individual nature of that neck pocket, of course. May not work - but it would be a less "irreversable" adjustment if it could be achieved. Even mid-'70s Strats have a modicum of collectors' premium, these days. That may matter to you or it may not.

BTW, with deep respect to KevinCurtis, I wouldn't side-shim the neck with glue. We still want to be able to take it in and out when required...

Cheers - C


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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 6:34 am
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Ceri wrote:
Martian wrote:
One additional item worth noting: IF the tilt neck screw is actually being used to shim (offset) the neck from the body, this is one of the chief offenders which makes these 3 bolt neck/bodies shift around. If it is not engaged, nothing further is required. If it is, measure how much the tilt neck screw is offsetting the neck and use a 'conventional' shim per this measurement at the base of the neck pocket; disengage the tilt neck screw.


Ah, that's a good point.

One more thought: if Guitarist1983 doesn't like the idea of installing extra screws in the neck joint I'm wondering if there is scope for side shimming the neck to firm it up? Either with a small piece of veneer if there's space enough (which in itself would be rather shocking) or with a thinner calling card, or even a thickness or two of paper?

Depends entirely on the individual nature of that neck pocket, of course. May not work - but it would be a less "irreversable" adjustment if it could be achieved. Even mid-'70s Strats have a modicum of collectors' premium, these days. That may matter to you or it may not.

BTW, with deep respect to KevinCurtis, I wouldn't side-shim the neck with glue. We still want to be able to take it in and out when required...

Cheers - C


I've tried all the shim/glue/dowel remedies. It has been my 100% experience that none genuinely work and eventually, these stop gaps degrade to the point of where the guitar once again exhibits the original malady. This is why I devised this system and like I said before, in life, nothing is for free. Meaning, my remedy is certainly NOT OEM and IS permanent. So, the question now comes under the heading of such things as, should worn out OEM frets or a broken OEM nut be replaced, thus restoring the guitar to a well functioning state or should it be left alone in its dubious state for the sake of originality? Such priorities, only the owner can answer.

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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 6:41 am
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Martian wrote:
I've tried all the shim/glue/dowel remedies. It has been my 100% experience that none genuinely work and eventually, these stop gaps degrade to the point of where the guitar once again exhibits the original malady. This is why I devised this system and like I said before, in life, nothing is for free. Meaning, my remedy is certainly NOT OEM and IS permanent. So, the question now comes under the heading of such things as, should worn out OEM frets or a broken OEM nut be replaced, thus restoring the guitar to a well functioning state or should it be left alone in its dubious state for the sake of originality? Such priorities, only the owner can answer.


Question asked, question answered. I have zero experience of this issue with three bolt necks, so I bow unhesitatingly to your knowledge.

Cheers Martian - C


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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 6:46 am
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BigJay wrote:
Drywall screws and a Dewalt 13.2 volt cordless drill.


That'll work for sure!!!

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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 6:48 am
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Anything but drywall screws. Those sharp points are prone to splitting wood. I even hammer the points off before screwing lath onto stud.

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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 6:50 am
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I'm lucky, I have a 72 with no problems. The neck pocket is tight and my neck is stable and have no tuning or intonation problems. Mine has a solid maple neck with a skunk stripe which may have something to do with it. It an incredible sounding instrument. Whenever I buy any bolt on neck guitar, I do the business card test. If you can slide a business card easily around the sides of the neck, don't buy it.

A lot of the new Strats have pretty sloppy pockets too. The four bolts keep it from sliding. But some suffer tone wise because of it. The biggest problem I see with 3 bolt necks are people over tightening the bolts and stripping the holes, or the bolt holes were too sloppy to begin with. 3 bolt necks have pretty bad rep. The tilt neck micro adjustment is just genius though.


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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 6:59 am
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Another question I am thinking of. When those necks are no longer secure, is the culprit usually the screw holes on the neck itself or the screw holes on the body? I have a 70's 3 bolts myself, thankfully the neck is tight.


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