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Post subject: Bridge/Saddle Problem
Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 2:23 pm
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Patrick here. Just recently I was adjusting the string lengths on my American Deluxe Strat SSS so I could set the intonation. It seems that one of my saddles has gone as far as it can and the note is still sharp. I can't adjust it any further because it's maxed out. What should I do? Thanks!


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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 9:43 pm
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I had the exact same problem on my American Deluxe SSS. Talked to people here, and my luthier (who is the best Ive come across). Unfortunately, this is one of those things that just happens. if you've done the whole setup, and it's not something there, the only thing to do is to either buy a shorter spring, or take the spring out and cut it, then put it back in. You could go out and get an earvana nut put in, where you can adjust intonation at the nut as well. I have now experience with them, and dont know how they affect tone. Im a traditionalist when it comes to that kind of thing and stick with bone, but it's an option if it's really bad. Mine wasnt that bad, I cut the spring and was fine. It wasnt even something that I could really hear all that much, it was just something I would see when I was using my strobe tuner, and it was just the fact that I knew it wasnt "perfect" that kept eating at me. But I digress, yeah, cut the spring for now, and get a new spring later.


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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:50 pm
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Yeah you might want to shorten the spring thats the only thing that comes to mind right now :)


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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 3:31 am
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Dont go with earvana it does require the saddles moving back to get correct intonation.

theres 2 answers to the run out of room dilema.
1 buy a longer screw to move the saddle further forwards.
2 grind the back edge off the saddle if you cant move it back enough.

I know the second option is very invasive. You may want to try that method on a cheapo saddle first. Set your intonationon that string mark where the front edge of it sits on the plate and then use that to find the length your regular saddle needs to be.

As a secondary measure.
How much float is on the trem? Try having the trem flush to the body, it may just clinch it for you.
Please check that the screws/posts haven't moved forwards.

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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 5:50 am
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You're too smart Niki. I was going to suggest putting the trem flush to the body. Don't know if it will help him but worth a try and that's how I place mine. :wink:


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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 6:14 am
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But presuming it's one of the higher strings with the longer spring I'd go with just getting one of the shorter ones and trying that first. It's likely only a mil of extra travel we're trying to achieve here, after all.

project, in case you are unware of it, there are two lengths of spring for the saddles. You may or may not have both lengths on your bridge, with the shorter on the bass strings. Any Authorised Fender dealer can supply sets of springs, including the shorter ones, or they are easily available online for pennies.

Or just shorten the one you have with a pair of snips. Easy-peasy...

Good luck - C


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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 9:26 am
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In really extreme cases, removing the spring altogether could solve your problem.

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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:33 am
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Thanks for all the replies! I really appreciate the help. According to the tuner the note is still sharp on my low E string. The saddle is right up against the bridge. I do have my bridge floating so it's not flush against the body. I'm going to give all your suggestions some thought. In the meantime, if anyone has anymore suggestions please feel free to share! Thanks alot! - Patrick


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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:36 am
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You may get round it a bit by lowering the string height or reducing the float of the bridge.

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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:42 am
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project wrote:
Thanks for all the replies! I really appreciate the help. According to the tuner the note is still sharp on my low E string. The saddle is right up against the bridge. I do have my bridge floating so it's not flush against the body. I'm going to give all your suggestions some thought. In the meantime, if anyone has anymore suggestions please feel free to share! Thanks alot! - Patrick


That was the same one I had problems with, maybe its a common problem. Like I said, I only knew it was sharp because of the tuner. Even after I cut the spring, it was still a little sharp, but at that point I just lived with it (but only for 2 days because it was stolen in a break in 2 days later)


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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:49 am
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Neck Relief, Bridge Height and String Height all have effect on the intonation.

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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 12:59 pm
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I tried pulling the bridge closer to the body. It's not completely flush to the body, but very close. It did seem to help a bit. It doesn't sound bad and I can probably live with it. I just like to try and get it as close to perfect as I possibly can. :) If I want the bridge to go completely flush against the body, should I add two more springs? I'm using four springs on the trem right now. Also, my strat is setup with medium super bullets. Thanks again!


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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 1:06 pm
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Personally I would flatten out the neck as much as I can, adjust the back of the bridge (1/8in.), Adjust the action (string height), then adjust intonation.

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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 1:10 pm
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windwalker9649 wrote:
project wrote:
Thanks for all the replies! I really appreciate the help. According to the tuner the note is still sharp on my low E string. The saddle is right up against the bridge. I do have my bridge floating so it's not flush against the body. I'm going to give all your suggestions some thought. In the meantime, if anyone has anymore suggestions please feel free to share! Thanks alot! - Patrick


That was the same one I had problems with, maybe its a common problem. Like I said, I only knew it was sharp because of the tuner. Even after I cut the spring, it was still a little sharp, but at that point I just lived with it (but only for 2 days because it was stolen in a break in 2 days later)


I don't know how common this really is. I've had a similar problem with a tune-o-matic bridge where I had to remove two saddles and reverse them. Sorry to hear about the break in. Did you ever catch the loser who took it?


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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 1:47 pm
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Lets say I wanted to snip the spring to make it shorter. How much are we talking about here? Would I snip half of the spring or 1/4, 1/8, etc.? Also, how difficult would the process of removing and reinstalling the saddle be?


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