My old 72 maple fretboard was looking pretty bad so I decided to do a refinish. Sanded off the remaining sealer geting her down to as close to original color as before but being this age would take a lot of work and probably ruin it
Question is whats best spray to use to reseal it with?

You can use a chemical stripper to speed things up.
-don't let it get on your nut or it will melt it.
-make sure you get all of it off, including the use of a wet paper towel at least once, then you can it dry overnight before painting it.

I think that nitro is easiest to work with and gives the best end results. So, first you clear coat the neck- one or two coats. Next you use the tinted amber spray to get the tone you want then finally clear coat again and use as many coats as you see fit.

Everything is available here: www.reranch.com

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Custom Shop '59 Strat with John Cruz Master Design Pickups
Vibro King
Fulltone Clyde>Deja-Vibe>TS-808>TS-9>Boss Tuner

Hi Sorrowed: not contradicting what others have said, but just to give you some additional options...

An alternative to nitro would be polyurethane, which Fender use on nearly all their necks from Mexican to American Deluxe, with the exception of a few models such as the Hotrods, American Vintage and the Eric Johnson. Those guitars use nitro for period accuracy.

Amongst the advantages of urethane are that it is much harder wearing, so your fingers won't be going through to the timber again any time soon. Also, it doesn't have the "melt in" characteristics of nitro, which can be both an advantage and a disadvantage.

On the pro side, if you get small particals of dust (or a cat hair - a recent experience of mine!) in one layer of the urethane you can simply sand them off again without problems before carrying on with the next coats. With nitro those foreign bodies sometimes sink down into previous layers when they are softened and re-activated by solvent in the new layer, so much more corrective surgery has to take place to remove them. That's particularly problematic with clear lacquer, where you can see down into everything below the top coat.

Not much of an issue for a big guitar maker with excellent facilities - more significant for those of us working at home in less than ideal circumstances.

BTW: don't be confused between polyurethane and polyester. Urethane is a very respectable finish and can be applied as thinly as you like. In fact, if you buy it in an aerosol it will already be mixed fairly thin to facilitate flow through the nozzle. Another plus, if you don't have a spray shop to work in.

Good luck with it - C