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Ceri
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 2:10 pm
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nikininja wrote:
Straighten your neck dead flat, lay the guitar flat with a couple of credit cards under the body to lift it parallel to the neckplate. Measure from the worktop to the neck heel (it should be 1,1/4") then measure the worktop to the back of the headstock. They should be the same measurement. + 1/16 or 1/8 is ok, you dont want minus anything.


Neat.

:wink: - C
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nikininja
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 2:13 pm
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Yeah what you need to do is lay the guitar flat. Check that the body is parallel to whatever sufrace, thats why you need to shim the back of the body a bit. Then check that a flat unbowed neck runs parallel too. Then when you add neck relief at the truss rod your bringing the angle to is optimum playing position.

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nikininja
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 2:19 pm
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yep thats it. You must make sure the body is absolutely parallel to whatever you lay it on though.

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nikininja
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 5:51 pm
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Ok your neck needs to be as near perfectly straight as you can get it. Whether that be stringed or unstringed. Your not measuring truss relief. Your trying to see if you need to re-angle the neck pocket with a shim. If that neck sits perfecty straight unstringed then take the measurements as unstringed. The absolute goal is to have both measurements identical. Then when set the neck relief on your truss rod your neck angle to truss relief should sit perfect.

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nikininja
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 4:04 am
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You did reset the bow of the neck i take it. Atleast now you know the angle of the neck is spot on. Not something i can say for my vintage hotrod. Both my mexican guitars and CS are spot on though. Funny eh?

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hushdrops
Post subject: simply players
PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 4:27 am
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BigJay wrote:
Sorry, Niki. I misunderstood. .


Don't worry BigJay - i'm totally <still> confused by the workbench table top measurement deal - these guys have their own lingo, i guess we are just players :-)


Last edited by hushdrops on Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:29 am, edited 1 time in total.

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hushdrops
Post subject: if your buzzing is gone what did you do?
PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 4:34 am
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BigJay wrote:
Well, a quick update for anybody who cares...

Anyway, the pups were high relative to nickel method standards I think. I've played it and it seems like much of the buzz is gone, but stay tuned. I dont trust it yet..

BigJay - ok you said your buzzing is gone , but you didn't shim the neck , you used the nickel measurement but you didn't mention making any adjustments to your pickups.

So did you do anything at all or just the worktop measurement and pickup height measurement using the nickel test?

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nikininja
Post subject: Re: simply players
PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:40 am
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hushdrops wrote:
BigJay wrote:
Sorry, Niki. I misunderstood. .


Don't worry BigJay - i'm totally <still> confused by the workbench table top measurement deal - these guys have their own lingo, i guess we are just players :-)


Shimming isnt always necessary. I have a aftermarket kavanagh body that the neckpocket was all wrong on. I simply sanded the hell out of it to set the neck pitch at a better angle.

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hushdrops
Post subject: BigJay cured his buzzing, but how?
PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:50 am
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nikininja wrote:
hushdrops wrote:
BigJay wrote:

Shimming isnt always necessary. I have a aftermarket kavanagh body that the neckpocket was all wrong on. I simply sanded the hell out of it to set the neck pitch at a better angle.


what did this guy BigJay do that fixed his buzzing? it looked like you gave him some advice but i don't see what he actually did, do you know?
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nikininja
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 6:32 am
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He lowered his pickups to solve the problem. From what i gather he'd raised the polepieces to favour the middle strings and ended up favouring them a little too much. The increased magnetic pull of the higher polepieces caused the strings to pull down a little causing the buzz.

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