I am installing a DPDT toggle switch in one of my guitars(no, not a Strat, a BC Rich Bich), and I have some questions about drilling the hole in the body. I have yet to do this mod on anything other than a pickguard.
#1 Should I drill from the control cavity out, or from the face of the guitar in? I don't want the bit to wander on the guitar face and scratch it. I also don't want the finish to chip as the bit comes thru from the control cavity.
#2 What kind of bit should I use?
#3 In order not to ruin the finish, should I be using a higher speed(more rpm) for the bit, or lower rpm? I don't want to melt or discolor the finish.
I am installing a Seymour Duncan 4 conductor Invader humbucker and I want to utilize the series/split/parallel option. I know I could use a push/pull pot, but I would not get 3 options, only 2. Plus, I always liked the look of the older BC Richs with all the different knobs and switches. Mine is a basic 2 humbucker/vol/tone/3 way switch version, so I would like to improve it with some nice tonal options.
I know this is a FENDER forum, but I have had a lot of good advice about repairs/mods from all you nice folks that I thought you could help me. Thanks in advance!!!This is the test subject!!

Drill from the face into the cavity. If you go the other way you risk splintering the finished surface as the bit exits. You should be fine with a standard twist drill. Drill a pilot hole with a small diameter bit at the exact spot where you want the bit centered. That will keep the bit from wandering when you drill the final hole. You can use a moderate speed. Not too fast. No hole will be perfect, but the washer that holds in the switch should cover any imperfections

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I would use masking tape to protect the finish and drill from the outside of the body in with a new good quality wood bit at a medium speed and make a smaller pilot hole before drilling the actual size hole. I would also measure the depth you want and mark that on the bit with a piece of masking tape too.

Don't push the drill too hard so you don't splinter the wood. Just take you time and you'll be okay.

Drill from the outside into the cavity. Follow the advice given by the other gents here using the medium speed and the standard wood bit, but you can use a center punch to put a divot where you want to drill the hole and the bit will not wander then.
As for inside the control cavity, to prevent the wood from splintering on the inside, place a block of wood inside the cavity pressed against the point at which the bit will exit. This will allow you to drill completely through the guitar surface and into the block with only a slight roughness at the inner edge. This can easily be cleaned up with a rat tail file.
Just remember to take your time, never be in a hurry for something like this.

-Harley

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I only have two brain cells left, and I'm saving them....for this weekend!

Yes drill outside in and use a Brad Point bit it will keep it from wondering across the finish as it starts in and help control it. Even if taped off you have to do it slow because the flutes on drill bits will make the finish flak like glass as they pull the cut finish up and out.

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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.

Thomas Jefferson

I would suggest you get hammered drunk (to calm the nerves of course) and just let things happen. That has worked for me in al facets of life thus far.

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Never get a degree in music... you play the same gigs as every other musician but now you have to pay back 80K in loans

3 things:

1) outside in is correct
2) Hammered drunk could work
3) Rich Bitches don't care