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Post subject: How To
Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 6:56 am
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http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/how-to-make-nitrocellulose-lacquer-269834/ :shock:

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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 9:53 am
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There are people who will advise better than i mate. I dont even wire wool sticky necks. I just polish em until the sticky has gone, which takes months. I would look at rubbing whatever stain you choose into the neck as it is. Then using a buffing tool to smooth the neck and even up the tint at the same time. Stewmac sell a nice looking drill attatchment for buffing.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Abrasives,_polishes,_buffers/Finesse_Polishing_Pad.html

Put that on a drywall gun with about 4500rpm and your going to get a shiny surface.

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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:05 am
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On ivory white i used yellow food colouring, which turned it far too yellow. So i lightly sanded into the finish with a super fine contour sander. It seems to have worked ok. The paint certainly looks old. The first coat of lacquer went on last night. So in a couple of weeks when its hardened and i polish it, it should darken a bit more too. Which i am kind of relying on.

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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:38 am
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The body was absolute junk before i decided to re-finish it again. A good size split, dings and gouges everywhere, the missus rescued it from the bin after one of my fits of rage. There was no paint on it so i painted it ivory with a metalic green undercoat. The tint was applied directly ontop of that finish prior to lacquering.

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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:17 am
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most artificially 'vintage' finishes are done with a tinted clear coat, It is a really really really weak concentration of amber in clear lacquer. If you want to try replicate this with food colouring you need to remember that most of the time amber is made by mixing yellow, brown, and a little bit of red.

I would use a little cup and start with some yellow (measure in drops,) mark down that you used say 10 drops yellow.

Then add drops of brown til you darken it how you like, mark down how many drops you use.
Then add a tiny bit of red, to give it that richness, and pop in the light. I usually put a single drop of red in another cup, and then try to increase it in fractions of a drop, you won't use a lot.

Marking down the number of drops lets you figure out the ratio of the different colours, say 10 yellow, to 5 brown, to 1 red (made up of coarse) then if you want to make other quantities, you can add proportionately.

Test the colour on scrap wood (or even paper,) so you see how it dries.

You could arguably use this as a direct stain, or you could add to clear lacquer and make tinted clear. You would have to keep in mind it will be much darker as a stain.

keep in mind that food colouring might not be compatible with nitrocellulose, a better bet would be to use a water based lacquer. it might be compatible with Nitro, i have never tried, but incompatibilities in different layers of finish can lead to a myriad of problems, wrinkling, failure to adhere inablility to sure, etc.

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Post subject: Re: How To
Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:38 am
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nikininja wrote:


Hmm. That's a little homespun even for me! Still, at least now I know what's going on down at the paints4u factory.

If anyone tries finishing a guitar this way I'll be - fascinated...

***

BigJay, I so strongly recommend you put neither tea not food coloring anywhere near your neck. Nor nitrocellulose, for that matter.

Your Highway One neck is finished with polyurethane, like almost all Fender necks, and those of most other manufacturers. It will darken slightly with time.

Or you can very easily pickup an aerosol of tinted polyurethane varnish and spray a coat or two right over the top of the existing lacquer. No need to prep in any way save giving it a light rub down all over with wire wool to creat a key for the new lacquer, and then de-greasing with first naphtha (lighter fluid) and then mineral (methylated) spirits. Then wear rubber gloves to keep from getting fresh skin oils on it.

When you are finished just wire wool the lacquer very gently off the frets. (Yours is a maple fingergboard, isn't it?) Bingo: job done.

Cheers - C


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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:40 am
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BigJay wrote:
Thanks, Twelvebar...very good information.

My neck has a satin urethane finish.

How does that affect my ability to tint it?
Umm,I would think with that finish it might be really tough. Urethane is very very impermeable.
Urethane not only hardens, but the molecules cross link, that's why they are so durable.

i think it would be really really hard to tint it. When I 'age' a neck I use a coat or 2 of tinted clear, but I never mix finish types when I can help it. polyesters, and polyurethanes require a sophisticated spray rig. They have VERY toxic catalysts and hardeners. I don't want to go near em. plus you have to clean up right away, and its harder to clean.

I would say unless you are willing to strip the neck right to the wood, and start with another finish from scratch I wouldn't mess with trying to age it.
Maybe someone else has tried, and had success and can help you, but i would be very reluctant to try.Ona neck, I think it would be very very easy to wreck it, a body if you take a bit too much wood, you can sand it smooth and not really worry too much, but your hands contact a neck all the time, and I think it would be way too easy to ruin the feel of your neck.

I will say, (and I wish I had a camera when I did it) I did a neck on a friends el cheapo guitar, I stripped it down to wood, and I used Tru Oil-- the rubbing stuff you use on gun stocks and i got a great looking aged finish on it, and it was also one of the three or four best feeling necks (to me) that i have ever touched. it is easy to apply, you just rub in light coats with your fingers, and work it in, let it dry and repeat til you get the finish you want. You can get all shades from very pale, right up to the rich look on a rifle stock if you want.

also to anyone who is refinishing, i can't stress enough, use the right safety equipment. If spraying Nitro remember your carpenter's dust mask isn't god enough, you need a respirator that is rated for volatile organic compounds!!!

Niki is a plasterer, so I assume he is familiar with the stuff you need when using different finishes, but i had a buddy who got some rattle cans of Nitro and was spraying his guitar (in his bathroom of all places,) and not using any kind of mask!!!

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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:51 am
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Well, necks are rounded, so that means a lot of open pores. these areas will soak up way more colour. the tea or food colouring wont actually penetrate the poly finish, so they would need to go onto either the wood, or maybe a water based lacquer. he's right, if oyu can find a spray can of tinted poly, you could apply another coat.
An addendum to his steel wool thing, use the #00000 stuff. it is the finest. i find rubbing down with naptha might not be good enough for that, as the wool leaves a ton of tiny tailings behind. I would suggest you blow the neck off with a an of compressed air (like for your computer,0 then wipe it with naptha. i guess i am even more anal than Ceri :lol: :lol: :lol:

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