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Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 9:58 pm
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Thats looking good Ceri :mrgreen:

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Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:37 am
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Ceri wrote:
Belphedeus: probably doesn't need saying but just to be absolutely clear I didn't remotely imagine you were interested in pirating activities. Just taking the opportunity to spell out my own thinking on that matter regarding this kind of project, for readers in general.

Hahhah.....no Ceri never i have imagine that and my thoughts are similar to yours regarding this kinda project...LOL!

Ceri wrote:
Just because this kind of activity occupies a potentially grey area, doesn't it?

Yeah probably but its a good documentation for future body repairs or such a fellow member decides to strips down the paint of their strat and follow your steps...who knows...

Btw by the looks of the latest installment the body is all prep up and its looking good so far!Awesome...!


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Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:07 am
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Fascinating thread, who should I thank? Ceri or Orv? :lol: You've done a great job so far Ceri, sonic blue sounds great. I can't wait to see this baby come to life, good luck dude.


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Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:37 pm
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Snowy72 wrote:
...sonic blue sounds great. I can't wait to see this baby come to life, good luck dude.


Hi Snowy: don't seem to have seen you around for a while. Hope you're well.

Since I've nothing ready to show finishing-wise yet I'll show you my color researches instead. Don't know if you're quite of my vintage, but I have nostalgic childhood memories of certain model cars and particularly their colors. I looked up some Ford Europe color charts and found this one:

http://www.anglia-models.co.uk/faoc-nmgpaint.htm

Some fairly austerity era colors there - imagine wanting all those slight variations on grey! And yet some of those colors get my memories working...

I've got a batch of 1959 "Pompadour Blue" nitrocellulose ready to shoot - looks very close to Sonic Blue and it may indeed just be the European name for the same color - although my supplier sells Sonic Blue as well with a different paint code, so who knows...

I find one or two of the other colors on that chart strangely alluring too: I'm kinda seeing a Telecaster with a double bound body in Alcuda Blue or maybe Anchor Blue. Some of those reds have a vibe too - and how's about that pale yellow at the bottom? Man, I remember crockery that color in the '60s!

***

Busy building my sanding coats: pictures as soon as I have something worth seeing...

Cheers - C


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Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:45 pm
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which one ming yellow? Ive a liking for the monaco red.

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Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:52 pm
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nikininja wrote:
which one ming yellow? Ive a liking for the monaco red.


I can't tell those yellows apart so I think I'd have to go for Panama Yellow. Not sure I could tell people my guitar was a color called Ming!

On the bound bodied Tele thing, how's about one with a Dragoon Red front and darker Imperial Maroon sides and back? Or is that too tarty?

Cheers - C


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Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 5:59 pm
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That sounds tremendous, what about a yellow variant for the binding. Or carribean turquiose with shark blue sides.

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Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 6:19 pm
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nikininja wrote:
That sounds tremendous, what about a yellow variant for the binding. Or carribean turquiose with shark blue sides.


Fantastic! We've invented a whole new look for the Telecaster! Let's get painting...

Cheers - C


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Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 6:32 pm
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Yeah good idea. Tele twins. Now to source some ash......?

:lol: Given my current kick for punk rebellion i'm thinking of 5 finger discounting the wood from the local council.

Redditch the town i grew up in, has the most trees per square mile of all towns/cities in europe. They wont miss a few, the chainsaw had a new chain last week. :D

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Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 3:22 pm
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nikininja wrote:
Yeah good idea. Tele twins. Now to source some ash......?

:lol: Given my current kick for punk rebellion i'm thinking of 5 finger discounting the wood from the local council.

Redditch the town i grew up in, has the most trees per square mile of all towns/cities in europe. They wont miss a few, the chainsaw had a new chain last week. :D
I got my Christmas tree from ones groing on the lawn of the government Liquor store by where I used to live for almost a decade. Perfect height, and nicely cared for.

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Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 1:05 pm
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Uh-oh: I've received stern words from Orvilleowner:
Orvilleowner wrote:
Hi Ceri.

What are you doing?

Please get back to work on you mahogany body strat project.

We're beggin' you, finish it already!!!!


Righto - I'll jump off my beach lounger (as if) and get on with it!

Many, many differing processes for finishing guitars. My schedule will follow this course:

> Prepping - raising the grain, sanding and scraping the whole bod as smooth as possible.
> Grain filling.
> Thin wash coat as a sealer.
> Build coats, in this case of grey primer, to achieve a totally glass smooth surface.
> Color coats, Ford Europe's Pompadour Blue (very similar to Sonic Blue).
> Clear coats.

Some would spray a wash coat before the grain filler as well. I have a probably unfounded superstition that the grain filler wants to bond with the wood, so I don't.

Though many mix finishes I prefer to stick with one medium throughout the process, to be sure of structural integrity. Though I'm not nearly as fixated on nitrocellulose as many here, in this case my 1959 automotive paint was only available in nitro, so that is what I shall be using from start to finish.

I have one additional objective. I've mentioned before that one of my favorite moments on the Forum was when Nikininja was stripping a Mexican Strat body and had the superb idea of weighing the body before and after stripping. I've checked back and his results were:

MIM body before stripping: 1887 grams / 4.1 lbs
After stripping: 1690 g / 3.7 lbs
Total weight of polyester lacquer: 197 g / 6.95 ounces

That was the first time I ever heard the thickness of lacquer expressed by weight: brilliant, huh? (I believe that is the same body you are working on again at the moment, Niki?)

Using nitro and a modicum of care I will be sincerely dismayed if I can't do a little better than 197 grams of paint. The question is how much thinner I can make my finish, taking care and time and without the various imperatives brought about by a big company's production processes. Remember, I'm out to create a proper finish here, not just spray on a token coat or two in order to claim to have won a race.

It'll be a realistic comparison.

My previous photo showed the body prepped, grain filled and sealed with a wash coat of nitro. Next came two coats of grey nitro primer. These were then sanded back almost out of existance to begin building the smoothest possible surface on which to spray the color coats (A day or two between each of the following stages.) :
ImageImage

Then another two coats, again sanded till imperfections were nearly all gone:
ImageImage

Hmm. A sign of my less then perfect wood prepping that so much of that second stage needed to come off again. Finally, another coat of primer to produce the uniformly smooth layer ready for color:
ImageImage

At last: now we're getting some place. That last layer of primer has been sanded as much as I dare to keep the lacquer as thin as possible. It's finally beginning to look like a guitar, isn't it?

However over-obsessive you may think my efforts rebuilding the pickup cavities, it would be kind of disappointing at this stage if I hadn't done it, dontchathink? No matter that it's going to get covered by the pickguard - we'd all know it was there if it wasn't right.

Also, you can now more easily see the structure of the corner where the bridge pickup cavity joins the control cavity. Which, if you recall, was my "deliberate mistake" in order to reveal to some distant future owner that this is not a Fender body. I agonised about that, but now I'm sure it was the right way to go.

So. Next comes the blue color stage and then the clearcoating. I have other engagements tomorrow - and as you see I'm excruciatingly slow at this. So be bear with me...!

Cheers - C


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Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 2:03 pm
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An absolute education mate.

Do you spray onto a body laid flat? I ask because of the newspaper. If so whas the reasoning.

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Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 3:37 pm
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nikininja wrote:
Do you spray onto a body laid flat? I ask because of the newspaper. If so whas the reasoning.


Actually raised about two inches on a little cushioned block. I just hate that unfinished bit in the neck pocket where the temporary handle is usually screwed on. I like a nicely finished pocket.

Though you gave me pause for thought the other week when you suggested that a neck pocket with no finish at all might be better for transmission of vibration. Hmm - that was a spanner in the works: might have to rethink my approach in future...

Cheers - C


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Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 4:00 pm
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That looks good Ceri. The prep coat built up nice on there.

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Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2009 4:14 pm
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Excellent work Ceri.

I agree wholeheartedly on using the same medium from start to finish.

I have great faith in you creating the finish you are looking for. How many times did you raise the grain before you were happy with it?
Spraying a wash coat before the grain filler really has as much to do with future refinishing as anything. You should be fine. The main reason for doing a wash coat is to lock in a stain, you aren't staining so don't worry about it.

Also i wouldn't obsess too much about a hyperthin finish, and would be more focused on an even coat. remember Nitro will gas off for a long time, even after it cures enough to buff and polish. As it gasses it will shrink. Some people think this process happens for years, maybe even decades.

I hope you have some scrap to practice spraying on. That way you can thin your lacquer properly to get a good spray and flow.

Keep up the great work!

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