Hi, I decided to try to set up my strat, but when I got to the part on the fender adjustment guide about adjusting the truss rod I hit a snag. I really can't get to the thing to adjust it. It says to turn it clockwise with a Phillips screw driver, but because mine is down at the neck (I have a classic player 60s) I can't figure out how to do it. I even tried taking off the pickguard, but it doesn't make a difference because the body is right there.

Here's some pics of what I mean.

In these you can see that the body is right up to the screw.



I only have access to this much of the adjustment thing

Dont worry thats absolutely normal on your guitar model, because thats how they were made back in the day.... for your model you need to take the neck off the body to adjust the trussrod, I know it is a little more time comsuming process but thats the only way you can adjust the trussrod, write down everything you did before taking the neck off. for example try to mentalize how much of a neck bow you had before and how much of a bow or flatness you want and with those notes you can adjust it when you have it off the body......

Before you loosen the 4 neck bolts, loosen your strings to below half tension. OK, now flip the guitar over, and don't be scared. Nothing bad is going to happen. Loosen all 4 neck screws, diagonally across from each other, and don't take them all the way out...but out enough so that they clear the body. That means that they are pretty much flush to the inside of the neck. ( It'll be easier when you mount the neck later)

Ok, now if there's too much bow, or the guitar has too much "relief" as they like to say, then clockwise...BUT get this...it's easier with a BIG flathead screwdriver. This sounds crude, but with 50's and 60's guitars or RI's, it really works...and I've done Strats that are from the 50's that same way, so have no fear. Some of the old ones I've worked on over the last 35 years are now priceless, so you're in good hands! The big old flathead is easier on the crossed screw head than you would believe. Good leverage too.

Now, estimate...you don't have to be completely correct...just estimate about 1/8 of a turn. If it's bowed pretty bad from the 6th to let's say the 12 - 14th frets...then a quarter turn clockwise. It may even give a little "crack" as you turn it, don't worry.

Get the neck back in place, strings will be all over the place, it'll feel hopeless, but everything will tighten up nice, strings go back into trees, over saddles, everything is good. Snug up neck screws but don't ever overtighten anything.

Tune to A-440 standard ptich, do this: Let it sit for a while - in tune right up to pitch_ and walk away for an hour or two. Pick it back up again, and retune it. There will be some drift. Now you're in tune? OK...what do you think of the action now?? Now if there's little buzzes, you can adjust the string heights at the bridge, but be patient. Let the guitar seat for a while. There's been a change made to a part of a wooden piece ( the neck), and it may need time to seat a bit. This is logical, and sometimes guys despair if it doesn't have immediate results or if the results are too drastic.

Try this...or for $125.00 bring it to me, and I'll do what's called a "Platinum set up" for you. There's bronze, sliver and gold as well, but I'll give you the best one. How bout that? Let me know how you did.

Cheers, and no charge...Pete

Wow. this is great stuff. I just got a Telecaster with this type of neck and I was wondering what kind of madman installed the truss rod. I will be able to do this with confidence now. Thanks.

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Hi guys thanks for the great responses, I might try this, but I'm leary to take the neck off because my action isn't too bad. I'll let you know how it goes if I work up the nerve

Pete your whole post was killer advice, really good exactly the way i've learnt to do it over the years. Heres another tip for you. Put a capo on the first fret after de-tuning. It really helps strings not pop off the tuners and makes the process quicker by stopping all the trouble re-stringing from loose can cause.

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>Put a capo on the first fret after de-tuning. It really helps strings not pop off the tuners and makes the process quicker by stopping all the trouble re-stringing from loose can cause.

Most excellent tip, Nik! So simple, yet so effective! I've been wanting to take the neck off my strat to check the SN, but was going to wait until I needed a string change, but that worked like a charm! Thanks.

(How come I didn't think of that!?! )

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Visit ALL of the exhibits. I have!

How come i didnt think of it either.

Like most of our knowledge its just something i picked up along the way. I cant take credit for it.

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I also have the CP 60 and ran into the same problem. My answer was to have a professional do it. The guy I took it to has built guitars for Derek Trucks, Warren Haynes, Rick Derringer, and others. It cost me $20 and he explained everything he was doing as he worked.

A great deal. If you live in Central Fl, I can get you hooked up. Just let me know.

Hi guys,

Thanks to everybody, especially pete, I just did it last night. I like how it is now pretty well, it's still a little off the fender specs, but I might leave it because it's pretty good. I did it once, didn't turn it enough, did it again, and then let it sit. Works great, Thanks again!

I've never been willing to attempt a truss rod adjust before due to my lack of experience and the possibility of doing irrepairable damage. The tips offered here have given me enough confidence to go ahead and try it next time I think one may be necessary...seems like the key is just patience. Thanks all!!!

Stevie.

Make small adjustments mate 1/8th of a turn at a time untill you get a feeling for how it responds.

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Not so bad, is it guys? Just takes a little confidence, that's all. And the capo is a nice trick, there's all kinds of shortcuts and tricks, but I wanted to get to the basics of how and why on this whole issue.

Here's a surprise> I LOVE working on rear neck load trussrods better than the headstock ones. It gives me a chance to check on other things as well, and make sure things are all snug and proper everywhere. There never was a thing wrong with that old system, some folks at Fender just thought easier access was better. It really isn't better or that much faster. And I always find that the rearload ones didn't drift as easily once set. The old ones from the 50's and 60's hardly need any attention unless a change happens in humidity that's really nasty.

A REAL stratocaster adjusts at the tail, not the head! LOL